Watch & Jewelry
February 26, 2015
BREGUET | Type XXI
BREGUET | Type XXI
Type XXI
Text by OPENERS
While Breguet is synonymous with high-end timepieces, its collection also includes stainless steel sports watches with roots in military aviation. This is the "Type XX" series. The somewhat unique name itself follows the codename of the former French Navy's military specifications (MIL-SPEC).
Breguet's aviation chronographs first appeared in the 1940s. They were remarkably well-crafted for their time, featuring black dials with luminous indices and rotating bezels with triangular markers for timekeeping. The "Type XX" was developed from these chronographs, further refined at the request of the French Naval Air Force. Introduced in 1954, this model was exceptional for its early adoption of the flyback function. This mechanism, which allows the hands to reset to zero and restart timing instantly with a press of the reset button during operation, was highly convenient for tasks requiring repeated measurements, such as timing successive bombing runs. However, due to the quartz crisis in the 1970s, Breguet as a watch brand entered a period of dormancy, and production of the "Type XX" was halted. It was revived in 1995, after Breguet's resurgence, with the "Type XX Aeronavale" appearing as the third-generation chronograph since the original model. Following the fourth-generation "Type XX Transatlantique," the "Type XXI" was unveiled in 2004 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the "Type XX"'s debut.
What distinguishes the "Type XXI" from the "Type XX" series is the function of the subdial at 3 o'clock. While the "XX" features a 30-minute counter, the "XXI" displays a 24-hour time indication linked to the dial's main time display. The indices are arranged so that one can instantly tell whether it is day or night by whether the hand points to the upper or lower half of the subdial. This is a welcome feature for pilots who travel the world. Instead of a 30-minute counter, a 60-minute counter is placed centrally alongside the chronograph seconds hand. The dial is wider, and combined with the white luminous material, legibility is enhanced. In addition to the mechanical stainless steel model, an 18K rose gold version is also available, adding a touch of glamour.
Self-winding. 28,800 vibrations per hour. 48-hour power reserve. Case diameter 42.0mm. Case thickness 15.2mm. Stainless steel bracelet or alligator strap. 100m water resistance. ¥1,197,000 (SS case & bracelet), ¥2,131,500 (18K RG case, crocodile strap).
