Elegance in Gold and Ceramic | BREGUET

BREGUET | Type XX 2067

Following the new generation "Type XX" announced in June 2023, Breguet introduces the newly developed "Type XX 2067" model. Characterized by its combination of gold and ceramic, it achieves a blend of elegance and sport-chic.

Text by Kosaku Waseda

The "Type XX": Descended from Military Pilot Watches

Breguet deepened its ties with the aviation industry in 1949, developing a chronograph with special functions. This feature, later known as "flyback," allows the chronograph to be instantly restarted with a single button press. This significantly reduced measurement time for pilots and earned high praise.

In 1952, the French Air Force issued a tender, and Breguet submitted several pieces to the Air Force's technical department. As a result, it was approved as "Type 20" in the spring of 1953, leading to a substantial order of 1100 units for the French Air Force and 500 units for the French Naval Aviation in 1958. Amidst this, production of the civilian "Type XX" also began, and it has remained popular for decades since.

The "Type XX" has been updated to models suitable for modern use, incorporating technological innovations such as the "Type XXII" reference 3880 with a 10 Hz frequency, and has now evolved through its fourth generation.

The new model draws inspiration from the long history of the "Type XX." Gold was used in an extremely rare timepiece from 1955, with its representative work, "No. 1780," currently displayed in the Breguet Museum. Only three gold timepieces exist in this series. The use of gold emphasizes its special nature.

This piece features new functions that enhance the fourth-generation series. Particularly noteworthy is the bidirectional rotating bezel made of gold with a ceramic ring, adopted for the first time in the collection. This new design achieves a more elegant and distinctive look than ever before.

The bezel's shape, creating a contrast with the case, is a detail adopted from the second-generation "Type XX" in the 1970s. At that time, bezels were characterized by various scales such as tachymeters and GMT. In the new model, the 15-minute counter, 12-hour counter, and small seconds are arranged in different positions, improving legibility. Similar to the military design models, varying the size of the counters makes the dial more dynamic and easier to read. Arabic numerals, hands, and the triangle marker on the bezel are coated with white luminescent material, ensuring visibility even in darkness.

The case is made of 42mm rose gold, highlighting its chic form. The crown is a classic straight type and adjusts in three positions (1. Neutral, winding; 2. Date correction; 3. Time setting).

The Caliber 728, equipped in this piece, was announced in 2023 after four years of development. It features a flyback function, which now requires only one operation, compared to the previous three-step process. This feature is a significant advantage, especially for pilots.

The movement boasts high precision and robustness, with a 60-hour power reserve. The decoration is also meticulously crafted, featuring sunburst finishes and snail patterns. The sapphire crystal case back allows appreciation of the movement's beauty, while the black-finished automatic winding rotor is designed to resemble an airplane wing.

In addition to an alligator leather strap, a NATO strap is included. Both are unified in the same midnight blue hue. The NATO strap features white piping, allowing the owner to change the watch's style according to their preference.

It is delivered to the user housed in a Havana-colored leather box reminiscent of an aircraft wing. The recurring aviation motifs are a testament to the respect for the military models. The "Type XX 2067" is a model that could become an icon of the Maison, merging Breguet's history and aesthetic sensibility.