The world's oldest watch brand, still in existence, that established the style of the diver's watch | BLANCPAIN

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BLANCPAIN | Blancpain
Short Series: BLANCPAIN, Part 3

BLANCPAIN 2018 New Releases Highlight

BLANCPAIN's 2018 offerings were notable for their high-quality daily complication models. These watches combine the enjoyment and mechanical intrigue of mechanical timepieces with the durability and practicality needed for everyday life. In terms of price, they are positioned within an accessible range for top-tier luxury watches, further emphasizing their usability. While collecting watches is enjoyable, true appreciation comes from wearing them. As I revisited the new releases from 2018, I felt a message from the brand.

Photographs by SHIBASAKI Fumito (donna)Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi

Retaining its glamorous appeal, now with a large, easy-to-read date display at 6 o'clock

To Official HP

This model successfully integrates a practical large date mechanism without compromising any of the appeal of the "Fifty Fathoms."

On the standard "Fifty Fathoms," the date display is deliberately set back, positioned between 4 and 5 o'clock. However, this model features a date disc at the 6 o'clock position. The placement of the date display here inherently enhances readability because the date is shown at the same angle as the time display, allowing for a natural eye movement.

The date display, like the dial, features white numerals on a black background. However, with the small point-size date display of the standard model, readability of the time and dive duration displays takes precedence. This large date, however, does not impede the legibility of the dive watch and instantly conveys the date clearly. The 3 and 9 o'clock indices have been changed from Arabic numerals to wedge shapes, suppressing horizontal visual cues and highlighting the date display at 6 o'clock.

Furthermore, the date numerals do not interfere with the dial design and blend seamlessly with the original aesthetic. It almost feels as if this is the original design, given its vintage feel. The "Fifty Fathoms" is known for its glamorous, three-dimensional curved sapphire bezel, which is as hard as diamond, appearing almost like a lifebuoy. The fact that this model stacks display information without disrupting that nuance is a significant achievement.

The subtly used titanium for the case is also a wonderful touch. The titanium case, with its appealing grayish color that gives a sharp impression, not only has external appeal but also offers exceptional practicality due to its lightness, robustness, and excellent pressure resistance. Additionally, it is less likely to cause allergies and is less susceptible to magnetic influences.

The Caliber 6918B is an exquisite in-house movement that achieves a long power reserve of five days using three barrels. This extended power reserve is a logical design for a dive watch, intended to prevent the mainspring from running out during a dive or to maintain the watch's water resistance by minimizing winding operations.

"Complication Divers" with Annual Calendar

To Official HP

Utilizing the simple dial design of the "Bathyscaphe," the day, date, and month are displayed in a single row across three sub-dials. Although it's an added module, the neat alignment of the sub-dials is very pleasing, making it seem as if the space was intentionally left for this purpose from the beginning.

An "annual calendar" requires only one date adjustment per year, on March 1st, as it automatically distinguishes between months with 30 and 31 days. This mechanism is a lesser version of the perpetual calendar, which also distinguishes between February's lengths and leap years. However, because it doesn't require overly delicate handling, it's popular as a "practical complication" that can be worn daily.

Incidentally, the "Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe" was introduced in 1956, three years after the original "Fifty Fathoms" debuted in 1953, as a diver's watch suitable for everyday use. It's fitting that the development philosophy for this new model, aimed at enhancing usability on land, remains consistent with the original model.

The unidirectional rotating bezel features ceramic with Liquidmetal® indices. The crispness all the way to the edges of the markings is due to the skillful combination of these different materials. The Bathyscaphe accelerates a sharper image compared to the standard "Fifty Fathoms," and this bezel shape seems to be a significant factor.

With "everyday use" as the theme, the luminous element is limited to a single rhombus mark at 12 o'clock. Conversely, the approach seems to be to make the indices clearly visible under sunlight. Moreover, the grayish bezel, matched with the meteor gray dial color, is sophisticated, reflecting a hard-boiled outlook on life.

The watch case is also linear and simple, maintaining its rugged appearance from the front without altering the case form. The absence of crown guards and the exposed large crown are also consistent with the concept.

Incidentally, the case of this "Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Annual Calendar" is made of SS. While the case of the new "Fifty Fathoms Large Date" uses titanium for a dark, subdued look, this model achieves a similar nuance through the absorption of light by its satin finish.

A timeless design, expertly interpreting classic style in a modern way

To Official HP

The "Complete Calendar" gets its name from the day and month displayed in a sub-dial at 12 o'clock, and the date indicated by a blued steel serpentine hand.

Blancpain introduced this "Complete Calendar GMT" in 2002. Since then, it has been continuously produced as one of the brand's representative models. However, this model features two evolutions. The first is the adoption of a silicon balance spring in its in-house movement, ensuring high magnetic resistance and exceptional accuracy. The second is Blancpain's patented under-lug corrector.

Let's take a closer look at this under-lug corrector. In typical three-hand models, all adjustments can be made using the crown. However, with a watch that has numerous displays like this model, the crown alone is insufficient. Therefore, many models feature small push-buttons on the case side that, in conjunction with the crown, allow for forward setting of the date and other functions when pressed. However, operating these push-buttons can be cumbersome. The buttons are small and cannot be pressed with a finger alone.

Some people resort to using a dedicated push-pin or, less ideally for the watch, a toothpick. However, this can be quite inconvenient for the user. Adjustments are often needed just before leaving the house, during a busy time of getting ready. At such moments, not being able to find the correction push-pin immediately, or having to press a small button with a pin, can be quite a hassle.

Therefore, Blancpain devised the idea of placing push-buttons on the underside of the lugs. This design minimizes accidental operation during daily wear and allows for simple adjustment using the pad of the finger. It is highly practical. Incidentally, while this model is not a perpetual calendar, it allows for individual correction of each display and hand without needing to consider interdependencies, making it convenient. It's a model that truly addresses user needs, even down to the ease of setting the time.

Now, let's turn our attention back to the dial. The craftsmanship is exquisite. It's perhaps a testament to its status as a high-end complication model within Blancpain, with delicate design achieved through meticulous effort and time. And the slender Roman numeral indices are simply stunning... BLANCPAIN is the world's oldest watch brand, but I believe its excellent sense in interpreting classical elements in a modern way also sets it apart.

A day-date, yet so elegant, so refined

To Official HP

The day is displayed via a retrograde mechanism between 7 and 9 o'clock, and the date is shown by a large date mechanism between 5 and 6 o'clock. It's a composition where old and new display methods for mechanical watches confront each other. Naturally, the "new" is the large date, and the "old" is the retrograde.

You might already know why the date display is considered "new": to clearly show the date font significantly larger relative to the dial frame, two separate discs are used for the tens and units digits, displaying a two-digit date. This method was adopted for wristwatches from the 1990s onwards, so it's not exactly ancient history.

In fact, notice how the font size of the numerals is enlarged to the extent that two discs must be layered, yet there is no difference in depth between the two digits. This is the technique of the large date. Having the same depth allows both digits to be displayed with equal clarity.

On the other hand, retrograde refers to a mechanism where a fan-shaped hand moves to the end of its arc and instantly returns to the starting position, after which the hand moves forward again.

In this model, it's used for the day display, and the hand moves precisely at the top of the hour. This system, which instantly advances at the top of every hour, also applies to the date. Both the day and date change precisely, and then stop precisely for the next day and the next day. This orderly movement occurs every night at midnight, which, while encouraging late nights, is rather convenient for admiring the watch.

This model also features an under-lug corrector, and the day is adjusted using this corrector. The date, on the other hand, is set via the crown. No tools are needed, making it very simple.

"Villeret," named after Blancpain's birthplace, is the most classical collection for the manufacture. All its models feature pure silhouettes, clear dials, and elegant cases with slender double-step bezels. Each year's new releases showcase the manufacture's unwavering commitment to watchmaking value and innovation rooted in its long tradition. While "Villeret" doesn't boast flashy designs, its appeal lies in its modern-yet-classic interpretation, a blend that doesn't betray the acrobatic craftsmanship behind it, embodying Blancpain's signature refinement.