BLANCPAIN: The World's Oldest Watch Brand, Which Defined the Diver's Watch Style
Presented by BLANCPAINBLANCPAIN
BLANCPAIN: A Special Series, Part 2
Daisuke Obana on N.HOOLYWOOD
The Appeal of the Fifty Fathoms (1)
N.HOOLYWOOD, a brand that has garnered immense popularity in the fashion scene and high praise in New York, recently held its first show in Tokyo in approximately eight years, reaffirming its prowess. We spoke with Daisuke Obana, the designer behind N.HOOLYWOOD, about his beloved Blancpain Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC 1. He acquired this vintage model from the 1960s about a year and a half ago. We asked Mr. Obana what draws him to the Fifty Fathoms.
Photographs by Kaku OhtakiText by Yoko Koizumi
Military Watches: Why Their Origins Resonate
“Having come from a vintage clothing background, I’ve loved military items since I was young, and I’m particularly interested in vintage pieces.”So says Mr. Obana. Consequently, his watch of choice is a vintage military watch. He particularly favors those made for the U.S. Navy. Mr. Obana refers to military watches as “gun-dokei” (military watches), a term that reflects his long-standing affinity for military items.
“When it comes to U.S. Navy military watches, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is the one. I’m quite particular, so I had resisted getting into watches, but about two and a half years ago, I finally did (laughs). I was searching for a vintage Blancpain, and I finally found the MIL-SPEC 1 about a year and a half ago.”
While technological innovation advances year by year, the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC 1, though differing in details from current models, is clearly crafted with the same DNA.
The “MIL-SPEC 1” is a model developed by Blancpain between 1957 and 1958, and was officially adopted by the U.S. Navy in 1958. It underwent further refinements and was supplied to the U.S. Navy until the 1970s.
“With military items, exploring the specifications is part of the enjoyment. Military watches are interesting from that perspective too.
There are various U.S. military models of the Fifty Fathoms, but the MIL-SPEC 1 is truly unique, both in terms of its 6 o’clock indicator and its functional and design aspects. Also, my wrists aren't particularly large, so I appreciate its smaller size.”
The indicator at the 6 o’clock position displays water resistance; it changes color from white to red if water ingress occurs. This disk complies with U.S. Navy MIL-SPEC standards, and for Mr. Obana, a fan of the U.S. Navy, it's an indispensable feature.
It's said that N.HOOLYWOOD's expansion into the United States in 2010 stemmed from Mr. Obana's strong affinity for America, and his particular fondness for the U.S. Navy is deeply ingrained.
“The Fifty Fathoms was supplied to navies around the world, so I feel it's packed with untold stories as the progenitor of dive watches, and there's a joy in uncovering these stories one by one.
From left: the current Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe at ¥1.28 million (excluding tax), the current Fifty Fathoms Automatique at ¥1.43 million (excluding tax), and the vintage Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPEC 1 owned by Mr. Obana.
It’s a brand that truly captivates enthusiasts, offering a deep dive into its heritage. It appeals to lovers of military watches, with its collection of authentic pieces.”
Page 02.The Challenge of Watchmaking
BLANCPAIN
BLANCPAIN: A Special Series, Part 2
Daisuke Obana on N.HOOLYWOOD
The Appeal of the Fifty Fathoms (2)
The Challenge of Watchmaking
Mr. Obana has also experience designing watches.
“For example, even the same stitching has a greater impact on a watch strap than on a sneaker. Therefore, designs for small worlds like watches are truly challenging items, where even the slightest nuance can bring about significant changes.”
Based on that experience, he expresses admiration for the meticulous details of the current models. Regarding the Fifty Fathoms Automatique, he notes about the diamond-shaped mark on the bezel,“I feel the original energy.”He was also surprised to learn that the bezel features a sapphire with a rounded finish,“!!”expressing his astonishment at the craftsmanship. Looking at the Bathyscaphe,“What a beautiful navy.”he remarked, captivated.
“Although vintage and current models are distinct categories, even for vintage enthusiasts, the current Fifty Fathoms models are brimming with appeal.
Blancpain has a rich history, so I'm eager to explore the range of products across its timeline and learn how Blancpain will forge its own history going forward.”said Mr. Obana.
And last year,a model paying homage to the Fifty Fathoms MIL-SPECwas reissued as a limited edition. Upon hearing this,“!!!”his expression conveyed,“I didn’t know…”.
“For those familiar with the original, it’s fascinating to see how the MIL-SPEC 1 has been reissued. The size is 40mm in diameter, which is a bit large. Hmm, this might be worth owning both the new and old versions.”
Finally,“Since we're at it, let's reissue the ‘Tornek’ (a model evolved from MIL-SPEC) too!”he exclaimed, revealing his passion as a military watch enthusiast.
Classic Fifty Fathoms Models
Fifty Fathoms Automatique
“Fathom” is a unit of depth measurement, with one fathom approximately equal to 1.8288 meters. Fifty Fathoms thus signifies approximately 91 meters, the maximum diving depth for professional divers at the time, which gave the model its name. Furthermore, the high-quality unidirectional rotating bezel, covered by scratch-resistant sapphire and first introduced for the 50th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms in 2003, successfully imparts a rich texture to the vintage look, creating a modern vintage design that is more dynamic than ever. Self-winding. Stainless steel case (45mm diameter). Sapphire case back. 30 ATM water resistance. Sail canvas strap. ¥1.43 million (excluding tax).
Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe
The Bathyscaphe, introduced in the late 1950s as a town-use model from the "Fifty Fathoms Collection," was revived in 2013 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms. Bathyscaphe is named after the model of the submersible created by Swiss explorer Jacques Piccard. The Bathyscaphe, with its sharp contours and traditional hands, possesses a new charm reminiscent of the original model. This model, released in 2016, features a gray plasma ceramic bezel with a blue ceramic insert and liquid metal hour markers, showcasing a high level of craftsmanship. Self-winding. Gray ceramic case (43.6mm diameter). Sapphire case back. 30 ATM water resistance. Sail canvas strap. ¥1.28 million (excluding tax).