Tudor, the Last Big Swiss Brand, Makes its Long-Awaited Official Debut in Japan | TUDOR
TUDOR |チューダー
Rolex's DNA, with a BEEFY style.
The last of the Swiss powerhouses, arriving with great anticipation.
Big Brand TUDOR (Part 1)
TUDOR has already established a formidable presence, and each year at Baselworld, seeing their new releases, I felt it was only a matter of time before the brand arrived in Japan. They offer outstanding quality at an excellent price. As evidenced by the high regard they already command in major watch markets like the US, Italy, the UK, Germany, and Hong Kong, TUDOR is the perfect brand for anyone seeking the essence of a mechanical watch.
Photographs by OKAMURA Masahiro (CROSSOVER)Text by TSUCHIDA Takashi
Like aged red meat, the essence of mechanical watchmaking, unadorned.
In Japan, the brand may have gained recognition through vintage watches, which might cause some initial confusion. However, former football star David Beckham and musician Lady Gaga are among the current TUDOR ambassadors. Their selection is superb – adults with their own distinct style in life. Truly the best.
Incidentally, upon its official launch in Japan, the katakana spelling was unified to "チューダー" (Chūdā). This naming is linked to the homage paid to the "Tudor dynasty," a royal house of England known for its rose emblem.
From the 1920s to the 1930s, ROLEX had already become a world-leading watch brand with its development of the Oyster case (waterproof case) and Oyster Perpetual (automatic winding movement). The company attempted to gain further popularity by utilizing the TUDOR brand and rose logo, which were more familiar to the British public. This marketing strategy was successful, and in response to the needs of the era, the TUDOR brand began to take on a distinct character, separate from ROLEX.
“For many years, I have wanted to create a watch with the technology and reliability of Rolex,
possessing both solid quality and pioneering spirit.
To manufacture and sell these valuable new watches,
I have decided to establish a new company called the 'Tudor Watch Company.'
(March 6, 1946)
The above are the words of Hans Wilsdorf, the founder of both ROLEX and TUDOR. And since this declaration, TUDOR has developed its own unique identity.
Durable watches, with an unpretentious style. This intention is evident even in the advertising campaigns of the 1950s.
Left: A campaign advertisement from 1954. It highlights that TUDOR's automatic watches, protected by the Oyster Prince case, are securely shielded from vibrations and shocks. Right: A campaign advertisement from 1955. It demonstrates that TUDOR's automatic watches maintained accurate timekeeping and withstood vibrations even during the grueling 1000-mile international motorcycle race in Monaco, which took 29 hours to complete.
The 1950s was an era when mechanical watches became accessible to everyone. TUDOR watches, with quality inherited from ROLEX, were accurate and highly reliable. Their durable cases, resistant to dust and vibrations, could withstand the rigors faced by civil engineers and motorcycle riders.
Page02.A refined design philosophy that has become the brand's signature
TUDOR |チューダー
Rolex's DNA, with a BEEFY style.
The last of the Swiss powerhouses, arriving with great anticipation.
Big Brand TUDOR (Part 2)
A refined design philosophy that has become the brand's signature
Please look at the images above.
Viewing the TUDOR case profile from the side, its robust and solid construction becomes apparent. It boldly embraces the necessary thickness to house a mechanical movement, with a clean, solid silhouette rendered in beautiful mirror-polished stainless steel – a design unmatched elsewhere.
Simple yet functional. The integrated case and lug design is a hallmark of the TUDOR Oyster case. Furthermore, this design is consistently applied across many models, rather than varying the case shape for each series.
The screw-down case back ensures the waterproof integrity of the Oyster case. TUDOR employs this Oyster case across all its models.
Naturally, the crown and chronograph push-pieces are also screw-down. This reflects a thorough commitment to practicality.
The "snowflake" hands, chosen for the hour hands of TUDOR dive watches like the Black Bay and Pelagos, are named for their resemblance to snowflakes. This distinctive shape was adopted for its excellent legibility, even in deep waters where light is scarce, and has become a signature feature of TUDOR.
In 2015, TUDOR developed its own in-house movement, which is now fitted in most models, excluding chronographs. The sophistication of these manufacture movements is truly remarkable. Like ROLEX, they are COSC-certified chronometers, attesting to their precision as high-end timepieces.
Furthermore, they are equipped with the latest silicon balance springs and offer a power reserve of approximately 70 hours, meeting practical usage standards.
The crown top features the Tudor dynasty's emblem, a rose motif. While the current TUDOR logo is unified with a shield symbolizing robustness, the popular rose motif is depicted here.
Moreover, TUDOR has quickly adopted trends such as all-black models with black PVD coating and bronze cases. The brand's ability to flexibly incorporate trends while maintaining the core concept of the "Black Bay" is noteworthy.
TUDOR Shop Information
TOKYO
Isetan Shinjuku Main Building 4F Jewelry & Watch | Permanent Exhibition from October 31 (Wed.)
Daimaru Tokyo Store 1F Event Space | October 31 (Wed.) - November 13 (Tue.)
Takashimaya Watch Museum Tokyo Nihonbashi | October 31 (Wed.) - November 13 (Tue.)
OSAKA
Hankyu Men's Osaka 1F | October 31 (Wed.) - November 6 (Tue.)
Takashimaya Osaka Store 1F | December 19 (Wed.) - December 25 (Tue.)
NAGOYA
Matsuzakaya Nagoya Store North Building 5F Watch Salon | November 14 (Wed.) - November 20 (Tue.)
Page03.Further insights into the reasons for TUDOR's popularity
TUDOR |チューダー
Rolex's DNA, with a BEEFY style.
The last of the Swiss powerhouses, arriving with great anticipation.
Big Brand TUDOR (Part 3)
Further insights into the reasons for TUDOR's popularity
Since 2009, TUDOR has offered fabric straps in its Heritage line. These fabric straps, produced in the Saint-Étienne region of France, have become a distinctive feature representing TUDOR's manufacturing philosophy.
While various brands have introduced fabric straps in recent years, TUDOR first presented them as additional straps for the "Heritage Chrono." Today, fabric straps are available for many of their models.
Fabric straps were a specification for military watches adopted by the U.S. Navy in the early 1960s. Their practicality, ease of replacement, and affordability made fabric straps (commonly known as NATO straps) highly valued. However, NATO straps were initially limited to casual watches, perhaps deemed unsuitable for luxury timepieces.
Yet, just as fashion experiences breakthroughs at key moments, TUDOR was an early adopter of the NATO strap. Its styling captivated people as a chic way to dress down, akin to pairing denim with a tuxedo. Given TUDOR's history of supplying watches to the U.S. and French navies in the 1950s and 1970s respectively, it's understandable they responded so vividly to the NATO strap.
TUDOR produces exclusive straps using various weaves, including satin and other textures, in addition to popular striped patterns. Their proposal of diverse variations, including material development, is extensive. No other luxury brand offers such a wide array of fabric straps. This reflects their keen understanding of the contemporary luxury watch market. As business casual attire becomes more prevalent, the subtle "relaxed nuance" that doesn't undermine professionalism is, I believe, a key reason for TUDOR's outstanding global appeal.
BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT
Black Bay Fifty-Eight. 2018 new model. This watch pays homage to TUDOR's first dive watch from 1958, featuring gold accents and a smaller case. Equipped with an automatic manufacture Caliber. Stainless steel case (39mm diameter). Fabric strap. Estimated price: ¥320,000 (excluding tax).
BLACK BAY GMT
Black Bay GMT. 2018 new model. Features a GMT function added to the manufacture Caliber. The red snowflake hand corresponds with the 24-hour bezel, allowing simultaneous display of home and local times. Automatic winding. Stainless steel case (41mm diameter). Fabric strap. Estimated price: ¥350,000 (excluding tax).
HERITAGE CHRONO BLUE
Heritage Chrono Blue. A reinterpretation of the Ref. 7169 from 1971 (nicknamed "Monte Carlo"). The dial evokes the roulette wheel of a casino. The sub-dials on the left are a 45-minute counter and small seconds. Automatic chronograph. Stainless steel case (42mm diameter). Fabric strap. Estimated price: ¥400,000 (excluding tax).
PELAGOS
Pelagos. A high-spec dive watch with 500m water resistance, which won the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in the Sports Watch category in 2015. Features an automatic helium escape valve on the case side. Equipped with an automatic manufacture Caliber. Case (42mm diameter) and bracelet are made of titanium. Estimated price: ¥430,000 (excluding tax).
BLACK BAY BRONZE
Black Bay Bronze. Bronze (copper), historically used in ships and diving equipment, is used for the case, allowing for the development of a unique patina over time. Equipped with an automatic manufacture Caliber. Bronze case (43mm diameter). Stainless steel case back. Fabric strap. Estimated price: ¥390,000 (excluding tax).
BLACK BAY 32
Black Bay 32. A 2018 new model featuring TUDOR's signature electric blue dial. Automatic winding. Stainless steel case (32mm diameter) and bracelet. 150m water resistance. Estimated price: ¥270,000 (excluding tax).