Don't underestimate local French cuisine. The essence of Aomori's gastronomy, perfected here.｜TRAVEL
"To Know is to Savor." Returns: Oirase Stream Hotel Edition (2)
Shall we move to the dining room?
Well, the champagne is almost finished. Shall we move to the dining room? To describe the interior of "Sonore's" dining room in a word: it's a parallel world where the nature of Oirase Stream has been stylishly transformed into art (am I exaggerating?). Interiors and items inspired by oak and magnolia trees, rocks, the waters of Oirase Stream, and driftwood are placed throughout. In this space, which seems to condense the very essence of Oirase Stream's nature, we will enjoy a nine-course meal.
Amuse-bouche: "Igamenchi" with Bamboo Shoots | Kashi Rosé 2019 Domaine de la Ferme Blanche Cold Appetizer: "Tuna and Spring Cabbage" | Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir Amphore 2018 Domaine des Marnes Blanches Cold Appetizer: "Wild Vegetables and Horse Meat" | Touraine Blanc 2019 Domaine des Hauts Perrons Warm Appetizer: "Seasonal Beans, Scallops, Morel Mushrooms" | Estelle & Cyril Bongrand Brut 2018 Warm Appetizer: "Spiny Spider Crab and D'Anjou Pigeon" | Vin Jaune 2014 Domaine Durand-Perron Fish Course: "Seasonal Fish and Shellfish" | Domaine Ouillon Chablis Premier Cru Vaillons 2018 Meat Course: "Beef and Asparagus" | Château La Tour de Mons 2008 Pre-dessert: "Yukishita Carrot" Dessert: "Strawberry and Pistachio" | Pinot Noir Ice Wine 2018 Family Friedrich Becker
Igamenchi
The first dish I received in May 2022 was "Igamenchi." This is a masterpiece that rearranges "igamenchi," a dish traditionally eaten in the inland Tsugaru region—which, simply put, is 'minced squid formed into a patty and fried' (Oka)—into a French culinary style.
"I wanted guests to feel they were in Aomori right from the first course," Oka explains his intention. The rich flavor of the nori (seaweed) sauce, which enhances the oceanic aroma, and the delightful chewy texture of the squid and bamboo shoots are irresistible. The bamboo shoot and nori sauce, made with dashi broth from kelp, creates a spring-like combination reminiscent of 'takenoko no nimono' (simmered bamboo shoots), but "the side dishes change with the seasons" (Oka).
Tuna and Spring Cabbage
The next dish, "Tuna and Spring Cabbage," featuring generously cut tuna paired with seasonal spring cabbage, was also an elegant and unforgettable plate. Beneath a subtly sweet spring cabbage tuile, seasoned with a tuna-based fish sauce and dressed with seared yam and a soft-boiled quail egg, lay the tuna. "In Aomori, people naturally expect tuna. We always have it on the menu, paired with seasonal ingredients," says Oka. This particular dish was inspired by Hawaiian poke.
And the spring cabbage tuile, often seen as a supporting element, plays a crucial role. The tender, fragrant spring cabbage shows no hint of subservience, as if to say, "I'm not just here to complement the tuna." So, Suzuki-san, what wine would you pair with this dish?
"For tuna, Pinot Noir is the natural choice. This time, to match Oka's tuna fish sauce, I searched for a Pinot Noir with a pronounced umami profile... and I found a great one! (laughs)" he says, pouring a Jura Pinot Noir. "The acidity is gentle, and the umami is rich. I think it pairs very well with this dish!" Suzuki seems a bit smug. Let's see. Wow, it's a light yet smooth Pinot with prominent red fruit aromas and a strong umami character! The rich tuna and the wine's umami components meld and blossom in the mouth. As I express my blissful state, Suzuki continues:
"Next, I want to test the compatibility of bonito and Pinot Noir. With good bonito, it works wonderfully, but sometimes the fishiness of the bonito becomes too pronounced. Surprisingly, Nagano Merlot paired quite well."
Listening to such insights while savoring these exquisite pairings is pure bliss! What good deeds must I have done in a past life to deserve such happiness? Overwhelmed, I close my eyes and let out a soft sigh. By the way, Suzuki-san, Oka-san, when should I come to try the bonito?
Wild Vegetables and Horse Meat
The subsequent "Wild Vegetables and Horse Meat" further elevated my already soaring spirits and insatiable appetite, even in the first half of the course. On top of spring mountain vegetables like kogomi (fiddlehead ferns) and fukinoto (butterbur sprouts), known for their unique bitterness and aroma, a generous portion of horse meat tartare was served!
Oka explains, "This cold appetizer is designed for you to enjoy the spring mountain vegetables." It's an exquisite dish where the velvety horse meat is paired with the bitter and flavorful wild vegetables. One bite, and you understand why Oka emphasizes, "The wild vegetables are the true stars." The accompanying lardo from the mane is also a brilliant touch. The rendered fat from the lardo gently envelops the bitterness of the wild vegetables, neutralizing it. Oh, how delightful! I struggled to suppress the urge to shout, "Delicious, too delicious!"
"Looking at it from above, one might want to pair it with red wine, but I focused on the wild vegetables (laughs)," says Suzuki, who paired this dish with a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire. Ah, a white wine, I see. "Although it might seem like the horse meat is the main ingredient at first glance, when paired with this wine, you realize it's truly a wild vegetable dish. I chose a wine with a strong green character that respects the flavor of the mountain vegetables." As Suzuki explains, Oka adds:
"Suzuki-san selects wines with the goal of enhancing the dish. There's no sommelier's ego involved."
These are the wines prepared for pairing on this day. Incidentally, Sonore offers a selection of approximately 150 types of fine wines from around the world, totaling about 2,000 bottles.
I am convinced that one of the reasons "Sonore" is highly regarded by gourmands is not only the individual skills and sensibilities of Suzuki and Oka, but also the trust between them.
Beef and Asparagus
The main meat dish, "Beef and Asparagus," is prepared with aged beef from Sakaeya, meticulously grilled over charcoal to lock in its natural flavors. "I want you to enjoy delicious beef," says Oka. The beef, which releases more flavor with each chew, is served with a spicy, umami-rich red wine sauce. Asparagus with hollandaise sauce and crispy fried shallots are added as accompaniments, providing texture and a fragrant accent. The paired wine is Château La Tour de Mons 2008 from Bordeaux.
"As it's the main course, I choose pairings that are most exciting. I don't take risks (laughs). It's a wine from Margaux with well-integrated tannins that can complement the aroma from aging and the charcoal grill. Since the sauce isn't heavy, I opted for a gentler Bordeaux," explains Suzuki.
Strawberry and Pistachio
The dessert, "Strawberry and Pistachio," is "a dessert centered around strawberries. I prefer not to cut strawberries too finely; I believe they taste better when you can bite into the flesh," says Oka. While maintaining his stance of wanting guests to "fully experience the strawberry flavor," he aimed for a "rich dessert befitting French cuisine" by lightly marinating the strawberries and pairing them with classic pistachios.
This dessert is served with a German ice wine, "Pinot Noir Ice Wine 2018 Family Friedrich Becker." I was pleasantly surprised to find a pairing for dessert as well. And Suzuki's bold choice was refreshingly audacious (laughs).
A 5-minute shuttle bus ride from the hotel leads to the secluded hot spring, "Yaekokono-yu," nestled in the mountains. Following the pandemic, it is now available for private use (for a fee, limited to 4 groups per day). The setting overlooks the stream, with a waterfall cascading down the mountain behind, creating a wild and natural atmosphere. The water quality is a mixture of Sarukura Onsen springs, primarily composed of sodium, chloride, and sulfate ions.
There are three rooms with open-air bath terraces facing the stream. The open-air baths are filled with hot spring water! Soaking in the hot spring while listening to the babbling stream is heavenly.
There are three rooms with open-air bath terraces facing the stream. The open-air baths are filled with hot spring water! Soaking in the hot spring while listening to the babbling stream is heavenly.
There are three rooms with open-air bath terraces facing the stream. The open-air baths are filled with hot spring water! Soaking in the hot spring while listening to the babbling stream is heavenly.
Finally—while I hardly need to introduce it, Oirase Stream Hotel offers various ways to enjoy your stay and proposes a wealth of activities that leverage the natural beauty of the Oirase Stream. These include the "Stream Open Bus Tour," the "Moss Walk" (a highly popular activity where guests observe moss with a magnifying glass along the stream), the "Oirase Guide Walk" led by a nature guide, the "Famous Waterfalls Guide Walk" where you walk with a guide to see numerous waterfalls in the upper reaches of the Oirase Stream, and the "Forest God Nature Tour" to visit the "Forest God," Japan's largest beech tree. All of these sound so appealing that I'm tempted to sign up for all of them!
Among these, the "Stream Verdant Lunch," offered exclusively to one group per day in May 2022, particularly captured the heart of this foodie. It's a blissful activity where you can indulge in vegetable-rich dishes and wines selected by sommelier Suzuki while enjoying a prime seat that feels like you have the Oirase Stream all to yourself. This time, Suzuki selected three Sauvignon Blancs from different regions: the Loire Valley and Bordeaux in France, and New Zealand.
"I planned this activity with the idea that it would be enjoyable to drink a Sauvignon Blanc with herbaceous, green notes while gazing at the beautiful verdant stream in May," he explains.
That's so clear! (laughs) And the "Stream Verdant Lunch" was, to put it mildly, "the best!" A lunch box filled with vegetables, including three types of "verdant sandwiches" incorporating asparagus, arugula, and herbs, salads, and soups, all enjoyed while admiring the stream surrounded by fresh greenery, accompanied by three Sauvignon Blancs from different regions. Though I have no spiritual inclinations, I felt as though my late father and generations of ancestors were watching over me, saying, "You are truly fortunate. We, your ancestors, are all proud of you." You might be wondering what I'm talking about? My apologies. In short, I am ecstatic.
And for those of you thinking, "May is already over. What's the point of you bragging about something we can't experience?" – due to the popularity of this plan, Oirase Stream Hotel is considering its re-release next spring, and also plans to hold a "Autumn Colors de Pinot Noir" event this fall!
I'm eagerly awaiting the launch of "Autumn Colors de Pinot Noir" (my own name for it, haha).
HOSHINO RESORTS Oirase Stream Hotel
Address | 231 Tochikyubo, Oirase, Towada City, Aomori Prefecture
Access | Approx. 90 minutes by car from JR Hachinohe Station or Shin-Aomori Station (Free shuttle bus available, reservation required)
Number of Rooms | 187 (Check-in 3:00 PM, Check-out 12:00 PM)
Rates | From ¥22,000 per night (per person, for double occupancy, tax included, includes dinner and breakfast)
* Menu at the French restaurant "Sonore," breakfast on the stream terrace, and various activities may vary in content and ingredient sourcing depending on the season.
