LOUNGE /
TRAVEL
July 25, 2022
Don't underestimate local French cuisine. The essence of Aomori's gastronomy, perfected here.｜TRAVEL
TRAVEL | HOSHINO RESORTS Oirase Stream Hotel
"To Know is to Savor." Returns: Oirase Stream Hotel Edition (1)
This is my third visit to the restaurant where the musical term "sonore"—meaning to resonate with a clear, ringing tone—is the inspiration. And no, I’m not trying to show off. The French restaurant "Sonore" opened in July 2019 as the main restaurant of HOSHINO RESORTS Oirase Stream Hotel, located within Towada-Hachimantai National Park. I believe my first visit was in September 2019. I was captivated by the aperitif served on the terrace overlooking the Oirase Stream, the novelty of dishes prepared with unique Aomori ingredients using French techniques, and the sheer deliciousness. On my second visit, I approached with a sense of trepidation, thinking, "Memories tend to be idealized. I don't want to be disappointed by having set my expectations too high," but it was an unnecessary worry. A blissful time awaited, surpassing the感動 of my first visit. And this third time, I had nothing left to fear. With expectations soaring to an almost overwhelming degree, I headed to "Sonore."
Photographs by OHTAKI Kaku | Text by HASEGAWA Aya | Edit by TSUCHIDA Takashi
It is people, after all, who nurture inspiration. The synergy between these two is remarkable.
On the left is Sonore's Chef, Ryosuke Oka. On the right is Sommelier, Yoshitaka Suzuki.
The chef at "Sonore" is Ryosuke Oka, born in 1985. Originally from Shiga Prefecture, Oka honed his skills at establishments such as Kitano Hotel Kobe, Restaurant Hommage, and Pierre Gagnaire, before being appointed Executive Chef at Hoshino Resorts Roter de Hiei in 2016. Following the transfer of Roter de Hiei's management away from Hoshino Resorts, he took on the role of Head Chef at "Sonore," the main dining room of HOSHINO RESORTS Oirase Stream Hotel, in April 2020.
May I ask you to elaborate on the concept of "Sonore"?
"Aomori Prefecture is surrounded by three seas—the Sea of Japan, the Tsugaru Strait, and the Pacific Ocean—making it one of Japan's leading seafood regions. It is also a treasure trove of ingredients from the mountains. This restaurant offers French cuisine that makes full use of Aomori's seasonal ingredients, to be enjoyed with grand cru wines while overlooking the stream."
Indeed. What you can enjoy here is highly refined "Aomori French." And with each visit, I feel it becomes even more focused on Aomori and more original. When I mentioned this, he smiled and replied, "Yes, we are consciously focusing more on Aomori than ever before in our ingredient selection and preparation." However, Oka, who had no prior connection to Aomori, must have found it challenging to deepen his knowledge of Aomori's unique ingredients and adapt them into French cuisine?
"Aomori's ingredients are indeed unique. However, I believe that any ingredient can be transformed into French cuisine with the presence of three elements: gelatin, fat, and alcohol."
Fascinating. That's an interesting way of thinking, and a keyword I'll keep in mind when exploring French cuisine going forward.
Oirase was a place deeply cherished by the late artist Taro Okamoto. In the center of the "Forest Myth" lobby, located beyond the entrance, stands an 8.5-meter-tall bronze fireplace of the same name, created by Okamoto. The grand fireplace, "River God," is one of his final works.
Oka mentioned his desire to focus more on Aomori's ingredients and culture, but he also noted that for certain ingredients like fish and meat, better quality can be found in Tokyo. Therefore, he is meticulous about his suppliers. For instance, he uses fresh fish from Shioya Fish Store, a renowned fishmonger in Aomori City, known for its expert ikejime (fresh fish preservation) techniques. However, he doesn't adhere to local sourcing dogmatically. "I've searched extensively, but Aomori's beef is generally not strong enough for a main course," he admits, sourcing his beef from "Sakaeya," a butcher shop in Shiga Prefecture praised by many renowned chefs.
Sommelier Yoshitaka Suzuki describes Oka's cuisine, which embraces a flexible approach to local sourcing, as follows:
"It's a dish that anyone, whether they have extensive or limited experience with food, will find delicious. The message of what he wants you to eat is clear. To use a baseball analogy, he throws various pitches like curves and sinkers, but they all land perfectly within the strike zone of deliciousness. Ah, I just said something quite clever, didn't I? (laughs)"
(Laughs) Well then, shall we move on to the meal? The feast at "Sonore" begins with an aperitif on the terrace overlooking the Oirase Stream. Many of you may already know this from various articles, and I briefly mentioned it at the beginning of this piece, but an introduction to "Sonore" would be incomplete without discussing the aperitif, which fully leverages the hotel's prime location along the stream (laughs).
The gentle murmur of the stream, the ever-changing seasonal scenery, chilled champagne, and the jewel-like amuse-bouches served on custom-made plates inspired by the stream – all combine to create a unique world. It is a perfect setting, leaving nothing more to be desired. And the five amuse-bouches, including confit of dogfish, wild boar pâté, and fermented apple sablé, are all utterly endearing...
