“That restaurant that opened last month was really good,” or “That place wasn’t as good as I expected.” We receive all sorts of food-related information daily (a slight exaggeration) from fellow gourmands. Among them, the French restaurant “Sonore,” which opened in July 2019 at Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel in Towada City, Aomori Prefecture, exclusively for hotel guests, was universally praised with exclamations of “Absolutely amazing!!” I was already anticipating it immensely before my visit.

Oirase Keiryu, formed by the collapse of Lake Towada approximately 15,000 years ago, flows continuously for about 14 km through Towada-Hachimantai National Park.

“Our hotel, the only resort hotel built along the Oirase Keiryu, has a concept of 'Keiryu Slow Life.' Under this concept, we’ve proposed experiences like open-air baths and guest rooms with views of the stream, and activities that utilize Oirase’s nature. Recently, however, we’ve started to consider the resort not as a single point, but as an entire area, and to clarify the value of the time spent here.”

So says Reina Yamashita, the General Manager. She explains that the opening of “Sonore” was part of this initiative. “When thinking about cuisine in terms of time, French cuisine, where you can enjoy each dish, seemed like the perfect fit.”

“Sonore” was born from this idea. Here, only one seasonal course menu is available.

It’s straightforward.
It’s decisive.

In other words, it’s a testament to their confidence in the food. While I’m eager to rave about the cuisine, let’s first introduce the spectacular presentation.

The course at “Sonore” begins with an apéro (enjoying aperitifs and appetizers) on the terrace overlooking Oirase Keiryu (served indoors during winter). It’s aptly named “Keiryu Apéro.” A direct hit of “Keiryu Slow Life” right from the start. Drinks enjoyed amidst nature are simply the best, aren’t they? In early spring, the sound of the stream is almost overwhelming due to the melting snow, but that too is part of the charm. It’s a magnificent presentation woven by nature. As you continue to drink, the sun begins to set, and the transition into night is incredibly dramatic. I’m writing this, but (I won’t mention the minor details; it’s not because I’m lazy, but intentionally) this cool presentation will be even more moving if you discover it without prior knowledge. Invite your loved ones, like a partner or family, and proudly say, “Ta-da!” as if it were your own achievement.

After the apéro, the course meal is served in the main dining room. The staff will call you at the perfect moment. The interior of the dining area is designed with motifs of rocks and trees, inspired by the nature of Oirase Keiryu. The back wall is also designed to evoke the rock face formed by the eruption of Mount Hakkoda. You can experience a wondrous sensation of conversing with Oirase’s nature.

I’ve already used a considerable amount of text just for the aperitif. Let’s move on to the food. Haruki Saito, the chef at “Sonore,” trained in Tokyo and then worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in France and Spain. After returning to Japan, he also served as a chef in Tokyo. He joined Hoshino Resorts in 2012 and was involved in restaurant operations at HOSHINOYA Taketomijima and other locations. The concept for “Sonore” is “modern and refined French cuisine with respect for tradition.” With Saito’s expertise, honed at a three-Michelin-star restaurant in Tokyo known for its authentic French cuisine, the stage is set for him to truly shine.

“While adhering to the classic technique of creating rich sauces, I want to make good use of Aomori’s ingredients,” says Saito. Using traditional French cooking methods like poêlé and meunière, he proposes dishes unique to “Sonore” that leverage the abundant local ingredients of Aomori Prefecture, such as apples, abalone, garlic, and mushrooms.

This time, I had a dish representative of Aomori from the summer course, and the autumn/winter course. The appetizer for the summer course was “Seared Foie Gras with Roasted Apples and Cider Sauce.” This dish clearly embodies the philosophy of “Sonore.”

“Apples are synonymous with Aomori, aren’t they?” (Saito). The seared foie gras, a star ingredient in French cuisine, is served atop apples. The Aomori apples are roasted with walnuts, pine nuts, and raisins – perhaps like an adult version of baked apples. There are two pieces of foie gras; on one, there’s a cinnamon tuile, which Saito calls a “classic combination.” On the other, there’s a crumble made from powdered Nanbu senbei. I repeat, it’s Nanbu senbei. I initially couldn’t believe my ears, but it’s true! The crisp, light texture is delightful. The sauce is a blend of cider, Calvados, and a duck demi-glace. It’s impossible for this not to be delicious.

The fish dish was “Steamed Halibut with Scallop Mousse and Sea Urchin.” “I wrapped steamed halibut around scallop mousse and placed sea urchin in the center,” says Saito. While these are all star ingredients, they achieve a perfect synergy. The accompanying Aomori mushrooms also made a notable impression. “Autumn menus often feature hearty dishes, so I’m using consommé for the sauce here. I wanted to offer a refreshing, yet deeply flavorful fish dish to prepare guests for the main course,” explains Saito. The complex yet clear soup is deeply satisfying. It truly feels like autumn.

If you enjoy wine, definitely opt for the wine pairing. Yoshitaka Suzuki, the head sommelier, has selected pairings from a collection of approximately 150 types and 2,000 bottles, making wine pairing another strength of “Sonore.” Suzuki, who transferred to “Sonore” from Bleston Court Yukawatan in Karuizawa, has an adventurous wine selection! Incidentally, the fish dish here features a double pairing. “The sauce is consommé, and herbs are used as an accompaniment. The choice of wine changes depending on which element you focus on. Therefore, we decided to pair two wines.” See? It sounds fun, doesn’t it? Also, the autumn course pairing starts with red wine. “We begin with Boudin Noir, made with tuna and pork blood. Ingredients rich in iron naturally call for red wine, so we start with a light red,” he explains, before transitioning to a more aged white wine.

By the way, do you know what “Sonore” means? “Sonore” is a musical term in French meaning “to resonate loudly.” It embodies the idea of the sounds of the stream, the cuisine that combines elegance and innovation, and the harmony of fine wines resonating together. According to Suzuki, “The course at ‘Sonore’ is like an opera.” Indeed, after the meal, I was left with a sense of satisfaction akin to having enjoyed a superb opera.

The dessert, “Poire Tatin and Compote with Hazelnut Glass,” is truly the fourth movement. Instead of the usual apples for Tarte Tatin, it’s made with pears. Pear tatin sits atop a pastry, adorned with caramel tuiles and, yes, Nanbu senbei. The “Sonore” philosophy of adding an “Aomori” accent to French cuisine is consistently applied even in the desserts. The summer menu even featured black garlic! The layered flavors, including browned butter, cassis sauce, and custard cream, create another wonderful harmony. You absolutely must try this.

When I excitedly told General Manager Yamashita, “You’ve created an incredible restaurant,” she replied:

“We’ve been very well-received since opening, thankfully. However, our goal is to become a destination that draws people to Oirase specifically to visit this restaurant. We haven’t quite reached that point yet.”

No, I believe it’s only a matter of time. Once people visit, many will become fans of “Sonore’s” presentation, ambiance, and, above all, its cuisine. Or rather, perhaps all of these elements combined constitute the grand performance that is “Sonore.”

Additionally, the “Keiryu Terrace Breakfast” is offered seasonally on the terrace along the stream (offered from May 1, 2020; concluded for 2019). It includes items like oven-baked smoked salmon sandwiches, chicken tartines, and spinach and bacon quiche, all packed in an original cherry wood box designed to resemble an apple crate. Among the freely available drinks at the buffet, cider was also offered (a delightful surprise). Enjoying breakfast amidst the sparkling morning light and clear air of Oirase, with the gentle sounds of the stream and birdsong as your background music – it feels like the start of a wonderful day.

During my stay, I asked several staff members about their favorite season or time of day in Oirase. While opinions on the season varied, everyone consistently mentioned “morning” when asked about the time of day, which I found memorable. Let me introduce an activity that allows you to fully enjoy the Oirase morning. “Keiryu Morning Cafe” (free, reservation required) is open to all guests. It’s completely free. Guests take a stroll through the Oirase Keiryu in the early morning before it gets busy, and enjoy coffee while overlooking the stream. “Despite the early meeting time, the capacity of 50 people is fully booked almost every day,” says Yamashita. A shuttle bus takes you to the starting point of the walk, about a 10-minute ride from the hotel. From there, you walk along the stream. Surrounded by the crisp morning air and the negative ions emanating from the stream, with every breath purifying your mind and body, the coffee you drink in this setting is exceptional.

Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel offers a variety of activities throughout the seasons, and there are many other intriguing options. For example, the “Blindfolded Walk,” newly introduced this summer, allows guests to experience Oirase through their ears, hands, and sense of smell while walking through the forest with an eye mask on, escorted by staff. The “Insect Reconciliation Tour” was also quite surprising. According to Yamashita, “We are constantly introducing unique and engaging activities.” We look forward to more astonishing plans in the future.

This hotel also emphasizes moss. Did you know how many species of moss exist? Oirase Keiryu is home to approximately 300 species out of the roughly 1,800 found in Japan. Consequently, activities like “Moss Walk” are very popular. In fact, all guest rooms are equipped with a magnifying glass. This thoughtful provision allows guests to observe moss to their heart’s content. In the evening, the “Forest School” (free) is held to help more people understand the charms of Oirase Keiryu. Every day, resort staff or experts knowledgeable about Oirase share insights from various perspectives.

The highlight of winter is the “Hyobaku no Yu” (Icefall Bath), where an icefall (frozen waterfall) is recreated on the wall of the open-air bath along the stream. To create this icefall, staff members put in considerable effort during the approximately one-month closure period. And don’t forget the hot springs. The open-air bath along the stream, sourced from Saragura Onsen in Hakkoda, offers the unique charm of bathing with the stream right beside you. The mixed-gender open-air bath, Yaekokonohe no Yu (closed for the season on November 26, 2019; reopens April 17, 2020), accessible by shuttle bus, is a rustic hot spring with a view of a waterfall up close. Although it’s a mixed-gender bath, bathrobes are provided, so you needn’t worry (or perhaps you do?).

Chef Saito of “Sonore” was surprised by the distinctness of Aomori’s four seasons upon arriving in Oirase. “We are directors of Keiryu Slow Life,” Yamashita remarked. We will surely return to experience your next performance of this unique “opera”!

Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel
Address | 231 Tochikubo, Aza-Oirase, Towada City, Aomori Prefecture
Access | Approx. 90 minutes by car from JR Hachinohe Station or Shin-Aomori Station (free shuttle bus available, reservation required)
Number of Rooms | 187 (Check-in 15:00, Check-out 12:00)
Rates | From ¥20,000 per night (per person, double occupancy, tax exclusive, includes dinner and breakfast)

* Menu items for the French restaurant “Sonore,” Keiryu Terrace Breakfast, and Moss Lunch Plate may vary in content and ingredient origin depending on the season.