After that, we had a fish course (striped beakfish on this day), and then came the main event: the hare, "Lièvre à la Royale" (Hare Royale). This is a classic French dish, also known as the "Queen of Game." Why the "Queen of Game"? Because wild hares are rare, and the dish is incredibly labor-intensive (laughs). Moreover, it's apparently quite difficult to obtain wild hare in Japan.

"Hare is an ingredient that embodies the essence of game. Among them, 'Lièvre à la Royale' is a dish that showcases the culmination of French culinary techniques. French cuisine is uniquely capable of making hare, which can be gamey and dry, delicious. We use French techniques to mask the less desirable aspects of the game and highlight its best qualities."

However, many people in Japan still have reservations about eating rabbit, so "we focused on the presentation to make it more approachable from the start," says Matsumoto. And here it is. Yukawatan's "Hare Royale" looks just like a chocolate dessert, doesn't it?!

"We prepare it completely differently from the traditional 'Lièvre à la Royale.' In the original recipe, the hare is cooked whole for about a week, but that makes it dry and gamey, making it almost impossible for those who dislike game to eat it," says Matsumoto.

...I understand. While I love game, I'm not particularly drawn to rabbit. Thinking of its cute appearance... I don't mean to sound so sentimental, but it's true, I haven't often found rabbit to be particularly delicious, being dry and gamey, just as Matsumoto says (laughs). Yet, Matsumoto applies the ultimate arrangement to this image-laden hare, wanting people to "enjoy it immensely."

"We wrap the hare meat with foie gras and truffles, and slow-cook it with aromatic vegetables and wine. This time, we cooked it at 58 degrees Celsius for four days. After letting it rest for another day to allow the flavors to meld, we combine it with alcohol, aromatic vegetables like shallots, herbs, and spices to achieve a moist texture and a concentrated flavor that can be appreciated even in small amounts."

The rich-looking sauce also required extensive effort. They reduced a large amount of wine with the hare stock, then thinned it with more stock, and concentrated it further with foie gras, chocolate, and hare's blood. Ah, so chocolate is really in there (laughs).

The hare retains its original wildness but has a slightly elegant presentation. The sauce, which combines ferocity with refinement, was enchantingly rich yet divinely clear. Even ten days after tasting it, my palate and nose vividly recall that complex sauce, which exhilaratingly tickled my senses.

And of course, red wine is a must with this hare, right?! Matsubara's selection is a Pinot Noir, "Mongeard-Mugneret Vougeot," from a long-established producer in Burgundy.

This sensuous wine with its delicate aroma perfectly complements the hare's subtlety and nobility. The joy that surged through my body was immense – the exquisite harmony of the dish and wine, both delicious on their own, was amplified manifold. This is the true pleasure of pairing.

Still, I feel like I've already reached the culinary highlight of 2022 in January. What am I to do with my food life now? Will I encounter anything more delicious? Though I know it's a luxurious problem, I feel a sense of unease these days. However, the memory of becoming a king in Karuizawa in 2022 will undoubtedly shine brilliantly throughout my life. Seriously.