Tradition and innovation, gastronomy and modernity. Palace Hotel Tokyo's French restaurant "Estérel by Alain Ducasse"
EAT | Estérel by Alain Ducasse
Palace Hotel Tokyo, nestled in Marunouchi, Tokyo, presents "Estérel by Alain Ducasse," its signature French restaurant, crafting a world of gastronomy that fuses tradition and innovation. Inheriting the philosophy of master chef Alain Ducasse, the cuisine, a tapestry of Japanese ingredients and French techniques, offers a flavor that is both light and profound.
Text & Photographs by IJICHI Yasutake
Alain Ducasse's Gastronomic Philosophy Embodies Japanese Terroir
Located at 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, overlooking the Imperial Palace East Garden, Palace Hotel Tokyo stands at the very heart of the city. Its history dates back to its opening in 1961. Prior to that, the site housed "Hotel Teito," a government-owned hotel exclusively for buyers, established by order of the GHQ (General Headquarters of the Allied Forces).
Premier Suite
Reborn in its current form after a complete rebuilding in 2012, Palace Hotel Tokyo showcases a unique world where Japanese aesthetics and modernity converge. All 284 guest rooms boast a luxurious spaciousness of at least 45㎡, and all offer views of the Imperial Palace East Garden's greenery, which changes with the seasons. In-room dining is not merely room service; it's an in-room experience of the hotel's restaurants, setting it apart from what one might typically imagine.
The hotel features over 720 art pieces, many of which offer contemporary interpretations of traditional Japanese crafts. During our visit, a limited-time exhibition (March 13-31, 2025) showcased works blending sustainability and traditional techniques, such as cherry blossom objects crafted by Tosa Washi paper artisans from Kochi, made from collected discarded flowers.
Within Palace Hotel Tokyo, the heart of its culinary offerings is the French restaurant "Estérel by Alain Ducasse." Formerly known as "Crown" and long cherished, the French restaurant was reborn in 2019 in partnership with "Ducasse Paris," led by the maestro of French cuisine, Alain Ducasse.
Alain Ducasse is one of the most renowned chefs in the world today. His culinary philosophy emphasizes maximizing the natural flavors of ingredients, avoiding excessive use of fat, sugar, and salt. Distinct from the classical French of Joël Robuchon or the Nordic fermentation techniques of René Redzepi, he pursues an evolved form of French cuisine that is "healthy and light."
Ducasse's connection with Japan dates back to 2004 with the opening of "Beige Alain Ducasse Tokyo" on the top floor of the Ginza Chanel Building, which garnered attention for its fusion of French cuisine and Japanese ingredients. At Estérel, this relationship deepens further, proposing French cuisine that truly embodies "Japanese terroir." This approach has earned high acclaim, including being listed as a one-star restaurant in "The Michelin Guide Tokyo 2025."
In January 2023, Kei Kojima was appointed as the chef of Estérel. Born in Tokyo in 1964 and raised in Kamakura, Chef Kojima is a highly accomplished chef who honed his skills for over a decade under Alain Ducasse and his right-hand man, Franck Cerutti. He served as副料理長 (sous chef) for three years at the three-Michelin-starred "Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse à l'Hôtel de Paris" in Monaco, and subsequently led "Beige Alain Ducasse Tokyo" as Executive Chef, maintaining a two-Michelin-star rating for eight consecutive years.
Photo by Shinsuke Matsukawa
Chef Kojima, whom Ducasse regards with immense trust as "the Japanese chef who understands and practices my culinary philosophy best in the world," personally selects seasonal vegetables from his beloved hometown of Kamakura each morning before heading to the hotel. He meticulously arranges for them to be delivered by noon in cardboard boxes, and personally brings any that cannot make the delivery schedule.
Chef Kojima's approach to cooking extends beyond the deliciousness of the ingredients to encompass the connections with the producers – understanding "who grew it." At the same time, he possesses the flexibility to source the finest ingredients from around the world, unconstrained by notions like "domestic-only." His personality, which cherishes the connection between nature and people, with surfing as a lifelong pursuit, imbues Estérel's cuisine with a rich expressiveness.
Today's Amuse-bouche
Today's Amuse-bouche
Hokkaido Notuke Scallop with Seasonal Vegetable Barigoule
Choshi Line-Caught Red Sea Bream with Seasonal Vegetables
Soupe de Poisson with Saga Prefecture Saffron
Blue Lobster with Herb Fresh Pasta and Seasonal Vegetables
Kumamoto Red Beef with Beetroot and Celeriac
Vegetable Consommé
Strawberry and Cardamom with Crème Diplomate
Strawberry Granita
Château Simard Saint-Émilion Grand Cru 2015
Freshly picked herbs grown at the hotel are crushed on the spot to make herbal tea.
What stands out in the dishes crafted by Chef Kojima is their light impression, achieved by minimizing the use of excessive fat and incorporating plenty of vegetables, while still preserving the essence of traditional French cuisine and brilliantly expressing its inherent depth and rich flavors. Each dish evokes not heaviness, but profundity. Not a greasy aftertaste, but a delicate lingering umami. This results in a satisfying feeling that pleasantly continues even after the meal, distinct from the heavy fullness that weighs down the stomach. It can truly be called modern French cuisine, allowing one to gracefully transition to the next part of the day after dining.
Estérel's menu changes subtly with the changing seasons. In spring, for example, dishes feature plump *managatsuo* (thread-sail filefish) slowly grilled over *binchotan* charcoal, paired with blood orange and vegetable sauces, or roasted Kamakura vegetables, allowing guests to savor the flavors of the season. In line with Ducasse's philosophy, the timing for menu changes is intentionally not fixed. This is to allow for flexible adaptation when the "peak season" for ingredients shifts due to factors like climate change.
Palace Hotel Tokyo reportedly employs nineteen sommeliers, including some dedicated to desk work, reflecting its thorough approach. At Estérel, the chef, sommeliers, and service staff work in unison to create an exceptionally comfortable atmosphere. The experience of savoring exquisite cuisine while gazing at the Imperial Palace gardens and being enveloped in refined service is the very definition of modern luxury.
An anecdote where a nearby hotel concierge recommends Estérel, and the fact that the restaurant is closed only on Mondays and Tuesdays, ensuring the chef is always present to maintain the highest level of performance, are further testaments to Estérel's dedication and appeal.
A place where tradition and innovation intersect. That is Palace Hotel Tokyo, and that is Estérel.
French Restaurant Estérel by Alain Ducasse Address | 1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo Palace Hotel Tokyo 6F Hours | Lunch: 11:30 am – 1:30 pm L.O. Dinner: 6:00 pm – 8:00 pm L.O. (10:00 pm Close) * Closed Mondays & Tuesdays (Open on public holidays) Tel. | 03-3211-5317
