A Testament to Conviction and Innovation: Works Born Through the Ages | MOËT & CHANDON
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December 31, 2019

A Testament to Conviction and Innovation: Works Born Through the Ages | MOËT & CHANDON

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MOËT & CHANDON

Rosé, Ice, Grand Vintage. Savor the story woven through Moët & Chandon's philosophy and journey.

In OPENERS' series titled "Moët & Chandon and 276 Years of Champagne," we first looked back at the history and explored the philosophy through "Moët & Chandon Impérial," a champagne loved worldwide, in "Moët Impérial 150th Anniversary." We introduced why Moët & Chandon remains an interesting value for us today. From here, we will guide you through other items presented by Moët & Chandon, exploring its unchanging philosophy, the value it offers, and the happy moments it creates for us. Behind these items liesMoët Impérial 150th Anniversary (2)the duality of conviction in continuing to craft champagne, and innovation to ensure Moët & Chandon remains Moët & Chandon, as led by Robert-Jean de Vogüé for many years from 1930, which we introduced in "Moët Impérial 150th Anniversary (2)". This is something we cannot overlook.

Text by IWASE Daiji

Champagne: Present for Celebrations and Solace

Champagne possesses a duality. Firstly, champagne is an agricultural product. It is born from the blessings of the land of Champagne, born from a deeply respectful and stoic endeavor.

Wine lovers will know this, but the Champagne region is at the northernmost limit for traditional winemaking. In this location, champagne was created through ingenuity and resourcefulness. It is a treasure born from the efforts and dedication of our predecessors, their struggles between what must be preserved and what must change, battling and even utilizing the extreme climate. This remains true today.

On the other hand, nothing is more suited to celebrity occasions and our celebrations than champagne. On the F1 podium, backstage with hip-hop and EDM superstars, and in Tokyo, on the table for a successful presentation or a confession of love on an anniversary. This wide-ranging duality is the charm of champagne.
Paris in the 1700s, the era of Madame de Pompadour's dances. There were those in the frigid Champagne region protecting saplings with frozen hands, and on the same night, people in the royal court of Paris were intoxicated by dance and champagne. This duality is captured within the bottle.

Robert-Jean de Vogüé, who fought for his homeland France during World War II as a resistance fighter, risked his life, and after the war, embraced the glamorous American world, maintaining a broad perspective. From technical aspects like the introduction of stainless steel tanks to dynamic management decisions, he made various innovative choices while preserving the tradition of Moët & Chandon and the pride of Champagne. He too must have been a man of duality. He wanted to love and protect Champagne. His words remain: "Be 15 minutes ahead, sometimes."
To discerning wine enthusiasts, the glamorous and charming Rosé, and Impérial served with ice might seem like unconventional choices. Rosé champagne is, of course, a well-established category. The elegance, structure, and richness of Pinot Noir. However, Rosé Impérial is not a classical rosé. It lacks the robust structure and upright tension, offering instead a glamorous and charming expression. Its vibrant fruitiness, particularly the wild strawberry notes, evokes a sense of energy moving towards a bright future and the relaxed moments within it.

While a classic rosé champagne might pair with rich dishes like duck or lamb, Rosé Impérial is perfect with finger foods like fruit and cream cheese, or with salmon. For a touch of sophisticated flair, consider thin slices of duck on a baguette. Casual ethnic cuisine also works well. With Rosé Impérial and something enjoyable, anywhere can become a delightful party venue, whether you're alone, with a partner, or with friends.
Ice Impérial is similar. With just ice, this bottle transforms into a champagne cocktail. It offers the aroma of red fruits like cranberry and a refreshing, balanced acidity. It feels like a cool breeze, anytime, anywhere. Imagine a casually elegant resort style. White shorts and your favorite resort sandals. You could leave the top two buttons of your shirt undone, or opt for a colorful bow tie.

Champagne is a wine that adapts to your mood and the occasion. It can be your evening tonight, your holiday morning, or the mood and occasion of the times. As eras change, so does cuisine. Consider the urban hotel where you might be tonight. Its poolside terrace offers a global array of trendy foods. In the 19th century, the cuisine before Champagne was French, whether traditional or courtly. But it has since traveled to Russia, America, and now, in Japan, its third-largest export market, it shines within Japanese cuisine, climate, and style. The encounter between French pride and a changing world. Robert-Jean de Vogüé's "Be 15 minutes ahead, sometimes." We can understand its meaning in this very moment, through the lightly enjoyed Rosé Impérial and Ice Impérial.

Bold Challenges Without Fear of Risk

The duality of champagne is also expressed in the existence of two types: non-vintage and vintage. If the name is followed by NV, it is non-vintage, and if it is written like "2008," it is vintage.

Vintage wines are made using only grapes harvested in that specific year. This might sound obvious to those familiar with wines from other regions, but recall the climate and terroir of the Champagne region mentioned earlier. In this challenging environment for grape cultivation, the winemaker does not always achieve satisfactory yields each year, nor are the grapes always of the desired quality. Many years, vintage champagne is not released.
This is why NV exists. NV is a crucial element that conveys the style of the maison, and it must offer consistent value every year. It must be identifiable as that brand, anytime, anywhere. Moët Impérial is NV. To reiterate, Moët Impérial is a champagne that allows you to savor the essence of Moët & Chandon at any time, under any circumstances. Not only in taste, aroma, color, and bubbles, but also its philosophy and history must be consistently offered worldwide. Winemaker Benoît Gouez and his team combine the vineyards of the year, the proportion of grape varietals, and the proportion of reserve wines. It is a painstaking, mind-boggling task to arrive at the correct formula for Moët Impérial, conducted in a precise chemical laboratory and an alchemist's den. The pressure is immense. The entire team engages in repeated, serious blind tastings, striving for the unchanging correct answer.

So, what does vintage mean to Moët & Chandon? I once asked Benoît Gouez about the difference in character between the Grand Vintage 2000 and 2003. His answer was unique.

"Grand Vintage 2000 evokes a scene on a Brittany coast in the morning, or a scene in Thailand surrounded by colorful tropical fruits and sweet vegetables. Grand Vintage 2003 brings to mind a secluded resort island in the Caribbean."

When I asked Amin Ganem, a member of the team and Quality Manager, about the Grand Vintage 2009, he said, "Late summer. The terrace of an old, large house on a plain. Gazing at the golden pampas grass swaying in the quiet breeze. A serene and abundant time. Sitting in a comfortable, well-worn leather chair... Such a scene unfolds."
Indeed, for the team, Grand Vintage is a challenge that tests their imagination with a different vision each time. The character changes with each vintage. Take 2002, for example, hailed as a great vintage. Many maisons released vintage champagnes that year. Therefore, expectations were high for what Moët & Chandon's 2002 would be. The Rosé of '08, '12, and going back to the 80s and 70s... each release draws attention to Moët & Chandon's challenge for that year. While there are unchanging methods, such as aging for over five years beyond the usual three-year period, what we truly want to see and taste is the vision they create for that particular year. Consider 2003. In recent years, it was a difficult year with very few vintage releases, simply put, a poor year. Yet, Benoît Gouez boldly challenged 2003 and released it. For him, 2003 was a great undertaking. Even if other maisons shied away, it was an opportunity for him to express himself brilliantly.

Always and Everywhere, With Your Happy Moments. That's Moët & Chandon's 276 Years.

The pressure of releasing Moët Impérial, which cannot afford to change, and the challenge of Grand Vintage, which demonstrates change. What remains constant is the philosophy of Moët & Chandon, which has walked its 276-year history. When asked if there was any fear in releasing such distinctive champagnes from Moët & Chandon, Benoît Gouez replied at the time:

"There is no fear. Certainly, releasing something new involves risk. But, everything is changing. I believe I must also change."
And,
"While maintaining authenticity, we must engage with the present. Constantly adapting to change. The accumulation of these efforts becomes new tradition. The history of Moët & Chandon itself is a history of unique transformation."

Yes, continuing to offer the unchanging is proof of accumulated transformation, and Rosé Impérial, Ice Impérial, and Grand Vintage show us this evidence. Each has its own occasion for enjoyment. The early summer sun, a summer poolside, a Michelin-starred restaurant for a quiet anniversary celebration, encounters on a journey, a celebrity space, an autumn evening conversing with old friends... And behind it all, the story of Moët & Chandon's tradition and innovation. Reflecting on the duality of champagne elevates any occasion to something special.

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