A Restaurant Ranked Among the World's 50 Best, Impossible to Book

If you plan to visit Melbourne with the sole purpose of dining at this restaurant, secure your reservation before booking your flight. It's Australia's most sought-after reservation, packed with gourmands from around the world every night. Reservations are online only, opening on the first Wednesday of every month at 9 AM. Tables fill up instantly, so good luck!

Attica is located in Ripponlea, an affluent residential area about a 10-minute drive from the city center. The exterior is somewhat understated, but step inside, and you'll find a high-end clientele filling the tables, creating an almost palpable energy. There are undoubtedly those who visit Melbourne solely to experience the cuisine here.



Here, however, the staff exhibit the utmost professionalism, with impeccably trained, efficient movements and attentive observation. It's deeply moving to see how far Australian restaurants have come. The service was truly exceptional.

A Star Australian Chef's Enchanting 16-Course Menu, Masterfully Showcasing Ingredient Personalities

Shellfish called pippies, wallaby, and mussels – ingredients commonly found in Australia – were transformed through meticulous preparation and creative twists into dishes with unimaginable flavors and textures. The unique, avant-garde presentation was also striking. Such bold culinary concepts are only possible through a deep understanding of the ingredients' individual characteristics, a hallmark of Ben Shewry's cuisine.





Next came "Snow Crab and Begonia," paired with "John Gehrig RG Riesling 2009 King Valley." Snow crab is one of Shewry's favorite ingredients. The delicate crab meat is carefully flaked and served with a rich sauce and refreshing begonia leaves. The Riesling, from the King Valley region visited during the interview, complemented the dish beautifully.

Following this was "Salted Red Kangaroo and Bunya Bunya," a signature dish of Ben Shewry.It was also featured at the "Restaurant Australia" special night in Tasmania last year– his masterpiece. The combination of lean kangaroo meat and the crisp, crunchy texture of the native Australian plant, bunya bunya, feels like an homage to the bush tucker of Australia's indigenous Aboriginal people, offering a profound depth of flavor. It was paired with "Bass Phillipe Estate Pinot Noir 2010 Gippsland."

The visually stunning "Marron, Lilly Pilly and Pearl." Marron, not to be confused with chestnuts, is a crustacean similar to crayfish, farmed in regions like South Australia. Lilly pilly is a native Australian plant characterized by its berry-like acidity. This was paired with "Cobaw Ridge Chardonnay 2010 Macedon."

Served on a large ceramic plate was "Minted Potato, Medium Rare." This means the potato is cooked to a medium-rare state, topped with fresh mint. The mint, along with other herbs and vegetables, is harvested from the organic garden behind the restaurant (guests are invited to visit it before dessert as a special treat). It's generously topped with a tangy butter and a sauce made from Tasmanian cheddar cheese aged for 18 months. Being medium-rare, the potato retains a pleasant bite, and as you chew, the mint and cheese flavors meld into an exquisite combination. It paired wonderfully with the biodynamic "Pennyweight La Serena Oloroso Beechworth."



The final course was a perfectly steamed red cabbage, aptly named "142 Days on Earth." The concept is to savor a vegetable, created over its growing period, in its natural state. The most tender leaf was placed on the plate, topped with diced emu meat and beetroot. The natural gradient of red was breathtakingly beautiful. It was savored slowly, by hand, with reverence. The synergy with the "Syrahmi Cuvee Ripponlea Shiraz 2014 Heathcote" was also remarkable.

There were two desserts: "Apples and Rhubarb Oil," offering wintery textures and flavors, paired not with wine but with "Wild Hibiscus and Davidsonia" for a refreshing finish. "Lois’ Jelly Whiph" featured whipped jelly generously topped with pistachios, paired with "Gembrook Hill Pineau NV Yarra Valley."

Finally, "Pukeko’s Egg" was presented – a message from Shewry to his guests. The pukeko is a native bird of New Zealand. It evokes childhood memories of nature and serves as a warning about the diminishing natural environment. Food, he conveys, is born from the earth's bounty, shaped by the culture and history we humans have built. This dish encapsulates his thoughts. Guests leave with a profound sense of gratitude for food, lingering with the exquisite culinary experience. It was on this night that I deeply felt the true essence of gastronomy.



Attica
http://www.attica.com.au


With the cooperation of:
Tourism Australia http://www.australia.com

Tourism Victoria http://jp.visitmelbourne.com


In consideration of the privacy of other guests, all photos were taken with an iPhone with the restaurant's permission.

To be continued in Spin Off: Victoria, High Country

• To the list of "Feature | Journey to Australia, the Continent of Gastronomy, for Food and Wine"