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October 26, 2015
Gourmet Continent Australia: A Journey Through Food and Wine | Victoria, Melbourne (1) | Feature
Feature: A Culinary Journey Through Australia, Exploring Food and Wine
Spin Off: Victoria - Melbourne (1)
“Australia is delicious!” To confirm this, we embarked on a journey across the Australian continent with “gourmet” as our keyword, in a feature titled “A Culinary Journey Through Australia, Exploring Food and Wine.” While we completed the feature, the ultimate gourmet region we most wanted to cover was surprisingly left out: Victoria. This time, as a spin-off, we bring you cutting-edge gastronomy and a journey through its captivating culinary landscape.
Special Thanks to Tourism Australia, Tourism Victoria, Cathay PacificText & Photographs by TERADA Naoko
High-Quality Ingredients Born from a Climate with Four Seasons in a Day and Fertile Land
Victoria, centered around Melbourne—Australia's most populous state capital after Sydney—is a representative region of Australia. Located in the south of the continent, it boasts a natural environment intertwined with beautiful parks and coastlines. Its diverse character, described as having “four seasons in a day,” possesses an emotional depth that appeals to the Japanese sensibility. And it is precisely this environment that is the source of its superior ingredients.
Victoria is a treasure trove for wine lovers, offering premium wines that are a must-try. Beyond the Yarra Valley, unique wine regions like King Valley, Swan Hill, and Rutherglen are scattered throughout. Many of these wines receive high acclaim. Furthermore, it's not just wine; Victoria's produce—including vegetables, fruits, meats, game, seafood, and dairy products—is highly regarded internationally, with flavors that can be astonishingly exquisite. It's no wonder that many chefs have a deep affection for Victoria, leading to an abundance of renowned restaurants.
The best way to truly experience this is through a gourmet exploration in Melbourne.
Savoring Melbourne, a World-Renowned Gastronomic City, on a Food Tour with a Writer
Melbourne is undoubtedly Australia's premier gourmet city. As mentioned, its rich bounty of ingredients and proximity to premium wine regions provide a rare environment where chefs can source ingredients of the highest quality. Moreover, these production areas are within a few hours' drive from the city. Seafood, for instance, can be found along the coastline within a mere 20-minute drive.
Beyond its culinary excellence, it is also a city of high culture, boasting strengths in fashion and art, and nurturing many creators. It also serves as a student city and is a multicultural hub shaped by diverse nationalities, including Chinese, Vietnamese, Italian, and Greek. This blend of cultures and environments naturally diversifies its food culture. The sustainability of having excellent ingredients readily available nearby to satisfy discerning gourmands is also a defining characteristic of Melbourne.
So, how can one catch the latest food trends in Melbourne? When looking for restaurants, it's advisable to first consultThe Age Good Food Guide, published annually by the local newspaper 'The Age'. Similar to Michelin ratings, it uses 'chef's hats' instead of stars, with three hats being the highest. It also covers newly opened, promising restaurants. Furthermore, it is a reliable guide as it includes restaurants not only in Melbourne but also in regional areas.
Alan Campeon, head of Melbourne Food Experiences
And this time, I participated in a tour led by Alan Campeon, a former chef, journalist contributing to publications like 'Australian Gourmet Traveller,' and author of numerous food books.Melbourne Food Experiences, which he founded. After extensive global culinary travel, he launched his gourmet tours in 2004. Catering to a wide range of participants, from couples and solo travelers on private tours to small groups, and from tourists to professional culinary enthusiasts and foodies, his tours leverage his profound knowledge and extensive network in the culinary world to offer an immersive learning experience of Melbourne's diverse food scene through tastings.
For example, the tours include food crawls visiting Campeon's recommended restaurants and cafes, gourmet tours featuring multi-course meals at acclaimed restaurants, cocktail and bar hopping, art and food experiences, and even chocolate-making workshops, cooking classes, and market explorations—truly covering the breadth of Melbourne's culinary delights. From these, he shared some of his top recommendations.
The Age Good Food Guide
http://www.goodfood.com.au/good-food/good-food-guide/the-age-good-food-guide-2015-the-hats-20140825-3e99v.html
Melbourne Food Experiences
http://www.melbournefoodexperiences.com.au/
Page02.Melbourne's Recommended Gourmet Spots
Feature: A Culinary Journey Through Australia, Exploring Food and Wine
Spin Off: Victoria - Melbourne (2)
Melbourne's Recommended Gourmet Spots
Dukes Coffee Roasters
A must-visit for coffee aficionados, located on the ground floor of a historic building on Flinders Lane. Pictured is the 'Ross House Blend,' with its exquisite balance of crisp acidity and sweetness.
It was June, winter in Australia. As we met at the hotel in the morning, Campeon's first words were, “Let's start with coffee to wake us up.” He then choseDukes Coffee Roasters. Melbourne is a city that boasts Australia's premier cafe culture. The city retains laneways, alleys from the pioneering era, where unique cafes abound, offering exquisite coffee. It's no wonder that a certain chain coffee brand's attempt to enter the market ended in a swift withdrawal.
Melburnians line up outside the shop for their morning cup or for takeaway (as takeaway is called in Australia). Baristas meticulously and coolly prepare each cup. The aroma of freshly ground coffee fills the small space, enchanting coffee addicts. The beans, selected from the top 5% of global producers, are roasted daily using LORING roasters from Santa Rosa, California, with fine-tuning based on the season and daily conditions.
“This is for those who like black or espresso,” he recommended, referring to the Ross House Blend. It’s a blend of Guatemalan and Ethiopian beans, used for all the espresso served at the shop. The bright sweetness and fruity notes are delightful. Incidentally, Ross House is the name of the building where the shop is located, serving as a hub for over 50 small non-profit organizations. Dukes donates A$3 from each bag of this blend to support their activities, and 1% of the shop's profits are donated to environmental initiatives. Exquisite coffee is born from an excellent natural environment and ethical business practices. Their commitment to understanding this is commendable.
Dukes Coffee Roasters
https://www.dukescoffee.com.au/
Spring Street Grocer
The cheese cellar located in the basement. Cheese is quietly aged in a perfectly controlled environment with careful temperature management.
Next, Campeon took me toSpring Street Grocer. At the entrance, there's a cafe serving Italian gelato made with natural ingredients, prepared fresh daily, and inside, gourmet food items are displayed. They even have frozen edamame, popular overseas. “Come this way,” he said, leading me down a spiral staircase to the basement, where a cheese cellar awaited.
The small space is filled with a variety of cheeses, lovingly cared for by Victor Pessinet, a Frenchman from Neuchâtel who has significantly contributed to Melbourne's cheese business.
“Compared to Europe, Australian cheese is still developing. However, I feel great potential in Victoria. For example,Holy Goat Cheeseproduces excellent goat cheese, and the Gippsland blue cheese is superb,” he praised. Melbourne, with its developed gourmet culture, has consumers with discerning palates. According to Campeon, this cheese cellar and gourmet deli are very popular. “If you want to take some back to Japan, we can pack it properly,” Pessinet said with a smile.
Spring Street Grocer
http://www.springstreetgrocer.com.au/
Holy Goat Cheese
http://holygoatcheese.com/
Ganache
In addition to the Collins Street location in the city, they also have a shop and cafe in South Yarra. Pictured are chocolates perfect for souvenirs. Those depicting Melbourne's iconic trams are particularly popular.
“By the way, do you like chocolate?” Campeon asked with a sweet smile before leading me toGanache, the shop and cafe of renowned Melbourne chocolatier Arnaud Battut. The charming interior is filled with hundreds of items, from truffles and chocolate bars to macarons and cakes, exuding a sweet, alluring aroma. In the back, a cafe corner bustles with activity, where young women mingle with male patrons patiently waiting for their chosen cake and the famous hot chocolate.
Battut's chocolates and cakes are characterized by their beautiful artistry and deep flavors derived from local ingredients. For instance, their popular Salted Caramel truffle uses locally sourced pink salt. He is also actively involved in nurturing young local talent, passionately mentoring his staff not only in chocolate-making techniques but also in business acumen. Furthermore, he engages in urban beekeeping and offers classes to the public, demonstrating a broad business mindset. The chocolates, presented in cute packaging, make perfect Melbourne souvenirs. This is a must-visit for any chocolate enthusiast.
Ganache
http://www.ganache.com.au/
Page03.Laneways & Arcades: A Maze of Hidden Gourmet Gems
Feature: A Culinary Journey Through Australia, Exploring Food and Wine
Spin Off: Victoria - Melbourne (3)
Laneways & Arcades: A Maze of Hidden Gourmet Gems
Campeon's food tours primarily utilize trains, trams, and walking. This also provides an excellent opportunity to explore the city of Melbourne.
Melbourne's city center is laid out in a grid pattern, where classic 19th-century pioneering buildings coexist with modern high-rises. Trams run along the streets, and they are free within the city center. Melbourne's charm, a blend of old and new, truly reveals itself when explored on foot. Connecting the main streets are the laneways, where the essence of Melbourne is concentrated.
During lunchtime or on Friday evenings, they become crowded. That vibrant atmosphere is also part of the laneway experience.
As it was approaching lunchtime, cafes and takeaway sandwich and pie stands lining the laneways began to fill with people. Open-air tables on the street were equipped with blankets and heaters, bustling with activity even in winter. The vibrant energy spilling onto the streets stimulated appetites, conveying Melbourne's dynamism.
Another pleasure of Melbourne is its arcades. With elegant interiors featuring mosaic tiles and stained glass, they are adorned with glamorous boutiques, cafes, and shops, offering a more sophisticated ambiance than the laneways. Campeon recommendedThe Block Arcade, a famous city icon with over 120 years of history. Within this beautiful arcade, you'll find a specialty store selling Australian native herbs and rock salt, as well as spices from around the world calledGewürzhaus, and the popular, queue-forming establishment for high tea,Hopetoun Tea Rooms.
As it was lunchtime, we also took a break for a meal. Normally, we would have chosen a cafe in a laneway, but considering I had already experienced dining in such places, Campeon selected the food court within the newly opened shopping center,Emporium Melbourne. This area primarily features ethnic restaurants and emphasizes healthy options.
Among them, Campeon's top recommendation is from the popular Vietnamese restaurantPho Nom. While ramen is also available, there are sushi and juice bars, and indeed, many health-conscious eateries. We chose fresh spring rolls with crispy pork and grilled lemon chicken. Next to us, a couple was elegantly enjoying pho. Melbourne has a significant Vietnamese population, even boasting a Chinatown, and is known for its high-quality Vietnamese cuisine. Although Pho Nom has a casual, accessible atmosphere, the taste was undeniably authentic.
The fresh herbs and fragrant crispy pork in the spring rolls were exceptionally delicious.
The Block Arcade
http://theblock.com.au/
Gewürzhaus
http://www.gewurzhaus.com.au/
Hopetoun Tea Rooms
http://www.hopetountearooms.com.au/
Emporium Melbourne
http://www.emporiummelbourne.com.au/Articles/Gourmet-without-the-guilt/
Pho Nom
http://www.phonom.com.au/
Page04.Controversial? A Visit to a New Establishment by a Charismatic Chef with a 'Cool Japan' Vibe
Feature: A Culinary Journey Through Australia, Exploring Food and Wine
Spin Off: Victoria - Melbourne (4)
Controversial? A Visit to a New Establishment by a Charismatic Chef with a 'Cool Japan' Vibe
The highlight of the food tour was a visit to the new establishment by Andrew McConnell, a charismatic chef and restaurant owner in Melbourne, known for creating many popular restaurants such as 'Cumulus, Inc.,' 'Cutler & Co.,' 'Builders Arms,' and 'Moon Under Water.'Super Normal.
The restaurant name is rendered in katakana. The deliberate choice of katakana over kanji reflects a 'Cool Japan' sensibility.
The space evokes the image of a street food stall in Hong Kong or Shanghai, with Japanese items displayed here and there.
The interior, composed solely of simple long tables and a counter made of light-colored wood, was unexpected. Old Japanese shaved ice machines and bonsai were placed throughout, clearly indicating McConnell's deep affection for Japan. Indeed, the restaurant is inspired by the food cultures of Shanghai, Hong Kong, Seoul, and Tokyo, a fact reflected in the menu.
Although it's a new restaurant, opinions are divided among Melbourne's Japanese residents. I had anticipated something quite avant-garde. However, upon tasting the signature dish, 'Duck Bao - Twice cooked duck,' my preconceptions vanished in an instant.
The twice-cooked duck, fried to a deep brown, was presented with stoic simplicity. Alongside were plum sauce, cucumber slices, and fluffy steamed buns. Using a spoon and fork, the duck was shredded and deconstructed, then placed into the buns with cucumber and plum sauce before being devoured in one go.
The juicy meat and crispy skin, combined with the refreshing sauce and the crisp texture of the cucumber, offered a delightful twist reminiscent of Peking duck, yet distinct. It was a culinary revelation. Truly the work of a chef behind Melbourne's top-tier restaurants. It's worth visiting solely for this dish.
This is the 'Duck Bao - Twice cooked duck.' Half portions can be ordered depending on the number of people.
Rooftop Bars and Whiskey: Trends in Nightlife
The tour concluded with a glimpse into the nightlife at one of Melbourne's popular rooftop bars,Goldilocks. Uniquely located in the heart of Chinatown, access is via a direct elevator from within a Chinese restaurant on the first floor—making it difficult to find alone. The rooftop itself is reached by ascending stairs from the fourth-floor interior, offering a space surrounded by Melbourne's skyscrapers.
The bar features a rare collection recommended by enthusiasts. The bottles lining the back bar are impressive.
From December to February (Southern Hemisphere's summer), it's the perfect location. They offer original cocktails made with fresh fruits, and it's popular among women.
Its sister establishment isEau de Vie, which offers a completely different atmosphere, focusing on heavy liquors like Scotch and whiskey. These spirits are gaining popularity in Australia, and they also have an extensive selection of Japanese whiskies.
Campeon concluded the tour with these remarks:
“Melbourne's food scene is incredibly diverse and surprisingly affordable. While there are many high-end restaurants, with careful selection, you can enjoy high-quality, varied meals at reasonable prices. Many chefs also show great respect for Japanese cuisine. Melbourne, with its distinct seasons similar to Japan, shares a sense of familiarity in terms of climate and food environment. I encourage you to experience it for yourself in Melbourne.”
Having just experienced Melbourne's cutting-edge gourmet scene, his words carried significant weight.
Supernormal
http://www.supernormal.net.au/
Goldilocks
http://www.goldilocksbar.com.au/
Eau de Vie
http://eaudevie.com.au/melbourne/
With the cooperation of:
Tourism Australia http://www.australia.com
Tourism Victoria http://jp.visitmelbourne.com
To be continued in Spin Off: Victoria - Melbourne (2)