The Bounty of Nature: The Essence of Bread

Loin montagne uses a wild yeast called "Shirakami Kodama Yeast" in its bread. This yeast was discovered in 1997 in the virgin beech forests of the Shirakami-Sanchi World Natural Heritage site in Akita Prefecture. It is a "wild yeast for baking" isolated and selected by Dr. Kenkichi Kodama, a prefectural researcher (deceased), and the Prefectural Food Research Center.

Its fermentation power is more sustained than that of general yeasts, eliminating the need for additives and making it resistant to drying and low temperatures. It also stores large amounts of trehalose (a type of oligosaccharide), enabling the baking of fine-textured bread with a delicate aroma and a subtle, natural sweetness. This yeast is currently expected to be utilized in foods other than bread, with ongoing research.

After working at bakeries such as Yokohama Matsuzakaya and Lenôtre, Chef Hiroshi Toyama honed his skills in technical management for in-store bakeries at supermarkets before opening Loin montagne in his hometown of Oji in 2001. When starting his own shop, Chef Toyama was passionate about using "Shirakami Kodama Yeast" due to its excellent fermentation power. However, as this yeast had only recently been discovered, its use outside Akita Prefecture was restricted to companies within the prefecture. Thus, the opening was delayed until 2001 when permission was granted. He is also the first person to be certified as a "Shirakami Kodama Yeast Meister."

Another commitment is the use of "domestic wheat (from Hokkaido)." Previously, domestic wheat had insufficient gluten (protein) to create elasticity in dough, making it unsuitable for bread. However, recent varietal improvements have significantly enhanced wheat quality, and it now pairs well with "Shirakami Kodama Yeast." The chef also uses simple ingredients brimming with "the blessings of nature," selected by his palate, such as "Hanami Sugar" from Amami Oshima for sugar and "Deep Sea Water Salt" from Muroto for salt.

The top photo features the popular "Fig & Cranberry." It is generously filled with dried figs, cranberries, and walnuts, and is rich in minerals. The chef's favorite way to enjoy it is with a dollop of mascarpone cheese. The uniquely named "Plain Shokupan" (bread with nothing inside) is baked using a blend of two types of Hokkaido wheat, rice flour, and "Shirakami Kodama Yeast," without eggs, milk, or butter. Despite the absence of eggs and other ingredients, the yeast's power creates a surprisingly fluffy and resilient texture, making it a favorite for those on calorie-restricted diets or children with allergies.

When asked about the origins of his passion for bread, Chef Toyama shared a memorable experience: "When I was in elementary school, my homeroom teacher treated the whole class to a freshly baked, long, three-pound loaf of bread. I remember tearing off pieces by hand and eating it while it was still warm. It was delicious. ... He was quite a sophisticated teacher, wasn't he?"

Chef Toyama, who has always loved "making things," says, "I'm happiest when the skills I've cultivated as a craftsman can bring joy to those around me." He diligently bakes bread every day in his hometown of Oji. His menu is extensive, featuring 120-130 varieties, each crafted with care, showcasing the chef's skill and dedication to service.

The sweet aroma of bread baked with "Shirakami Kodama Yeast" is truly wonderful. Why not take the train and experience this unique, freshly baked fragrance for yourself?