Inspired by Casual French "Bread and Deli" Shops

Boulangerie ichi is a minute's walk from the Nishi-Magome Station ticket gates, the starting point of the Toei Asakusa Line, situated along Route 1. Though its storefront is surprisingly small, customers have been coming in a steady stream since opening, making it a beloved neighborhood bakery.

Chef Ichige boasts an impressive resume, including apprenticeships at several bakeries both in Japan and abroad, followed by roles as head baker at Kinokuniya International in Aoyama and Maison Kayser. He opened Boulangerie ichi in Nishi-Magome in 2006 and, in 2009, opened Pâtisserie-traiteur ichi nearby, offering home-style French cuisine, bread, and pastries. He is currently one of the most dynamic bakers in the industry.

At the new establishment, they've welcomed a trusted pâtissier. Tomoko, Chef Ichige's wife, who excels at quiches and stews, showcases her culinary skills during lunchtime. The Ichige couple now manages two popular establishments together, working hand-in-hand.

Boulangerie ichi's sandwiches are a highlight, generously filled and visually appealing. The variety is impressive, with about eight types, including daily specials, available in the display case: "Prosciutto and Parmigiano," "Tomato and Mozzarella," "Roast Beef," "Bacon and Avocado," "Tuna Tomato," "Tandoori Chicken," "Smoked Salmon," and the mini-sandwich "Pastrami." They use a soft, easy-to-eat 'ciabatta' dough for the bread, making each sandwich satisfyingly substantial. "I like the hearty sandwiches you find in French bakeries. Many men buy these for lunch," says Chef Ichige.

The bread at Boulangerie ichi is made using a 'liquid natural yeast' starter, to which a small amount of commercial yeast is added. The subtle tang of the 'liquid natural yeast,' reminiscent of yogurt, stimulates the appetite and makes you want to eat more. Their reasonably priced baguette, made with Hokkaido wheat flour, is baked using a long, low-temperature fermentation process. This deepens the flavor of the flour, resulting in a crusty exterior and a moist interior.

"For ingredients that significantly impact flavor, we don't hesitate to use premium products. However, we want people to enjoy our bread daily, so we aim to keep prices as low as possible," explains Chef Ichige. At 199 yen for a baguette, it's an exceptionally low price among the 24 bakeries featured in this series, yet it offers the authentic taste of long, low-temperature fermentation. His dedication and spirit deserve applause.

Chef Ichige's philosophy is to "bake in small batches and serve freshly made items." The shop currently offers about 45 varieties of bread and quiches. Staff members shuttle back and forth between the shop and a nearby preparation space, ensuring that customers always receive freshly baked goods.

During my visit, while I was interviewing the chef in the preparation space, the oven timer rang, signaling that the tart bases were ready. The room filled with the delightful aroma of fermented butter. Chef Ichige, who had been speaking calmly until then, swiftly removed the tart bases and checked their doneness. His movements were quick, efficient, and precise, embodying the skill of a master craftsman.

Chef Ichige, who originally loved food and even considered a career in cooking in his youth, began working part-time at a bakery during his university days, as classes were in the morning. This led him to his current path. "I found the dramatic transformation of dough as it puffed up in the oven fascinating," he recalls, looking back fondly on those early days. It's likely that the appeal of bread-making is being passed on to the young artisans currently training at the shop. "Our bread is truly delicious," says a staff member with a refreshing smile.

Chef Ichige envisions a "future-style bakery" – a place offering not only bread but also deli items and pastries, where one can enjoy fine wine and relax in the evening, a place people will want to visit every day. With this couple's dedication, it seems certain they will realize this vision in the near future. We eagerly anticipate what they will achieve.