TOKYO PREMIUM BAKERIES Series | Part 23: Panaderia Tigre
LOUNGE / EAT
April 8, 2015

TOKYO PREMIUM BAKERIES Series | Part 23: Panaderia Tigre


No. 23 PANADERIA TIGRE


Breads Crafted with the Chef's Palate and Senses


In the 23rd installment of our series introducing Tokyo's truly premium bakeries, we visit PANADERIA TIGRE, located a short distance from Gakugei-Daigaku Station on the Tokyu Toyoko Line, nestled in a quiet residential neighborhood. The bright, open atmosphere of the shop is immediately striking.


Reporting and Text: Fuyuki TogawaPhotography: Mizuho Takada




Simple Breads Demand Uncompromising Craft



About an eight-minute walk west from Gakugei-Daigaku Station on the Tokyu Toyoko Line, onto Komazawa Dori, you'll find yourself in a quiet residential area. Just when you might start to wonder if you're heading in the right direction, the soft yellow building of PANADERIA TIGRE comes into view. This is the bakery opened in 2007 by Tetsuji Mochizuki, who previously worked for a bread manufacturer, was involved from the ground up in establishing the renowned Daikanyama bakery Alto Fagos, and later served as its head chef.

The name 'Tigre' means 'tiger' in Spanish. The shop's theme color is yellow, and its logo features a charming tiger illustration. The owner, born in the Year of the Tiger, chose the short, memorable name 'Tigre' partly as a self-introduction.

The high-ceilinged, bright interior boasts a large display case showcasing 80 to 100 varieties of bread. The selection ranges from standard loaves for meals to items paired with wine and cheese, and even those incorporating Japanese ingredients like beans, sesame, and plum shiso. For the dough, Mochizuki uses a variety of starters—raisin, lemon, strawberry, sourdough, and levain—alongside commercial yeast, chosen according to the season and the specific bread. His motto is to provide bread that everyone can enjoy with peace of mind, free from preservatives and yeast food.


Bakery | Tigre 02

Bakery | Tigre 05



Several types of baguette are made using reduced yeast, high hydration, and a long, cold fermentation before baking. This method, inherited from his mentor Katsuei Shiga (now owner-chef of Signifiant Signifié), results in a crust that is crisp and a crumb that is chewy, bringing out the natural flavor of the flour.

The new 'Baguette 48' is crafted with stone-milled flour and an extremely low amount of yeast, undergoing a two-day (48-hour) ultra-long fermentation. A unique process involves stopping fermentation in the refrigerator for the first 36 hours to mature the dough, followed by a final fermentation at room temperature. The flavor of the flour unfolds in the mouth, making it an irresistible treat for baguette aficionados.

The large, round 'Whole Wheat Campagne' is also a popular item. It's made with a blend of 30% whole wheat flour and local flour from Hokkaido. Rich in vitamins and minerals, the dough is moist and fluffy, resulting in a soft, approachable bread suitable for everyone.

What Chef Mochizuki values most in his bread-making is 'creating bread in a positive state of mind.' As a father of two, he makes sure to fully reset by playing with his children on his days off, allowing him to approach his bread-making with renewed focus. In terms of technique, he emphasizes 'trusting my own palate and intuition.' He doesn't limit himself to natural yeast, readily using commercial yeast when it suits the bread's purpose. For certain breads, like English muffins, he notes that the characteristic crisp texture can only be achieved by using yeast and the oven's heat to rapidly achieve a significant rise.


Bakery | Tigre 06

Bakery | Tigre 08



Mochizuki enjoys touching the dough, shaping it, and watching it rise. 'It's fascinating how the texture of the dough changes so dramatically with just a light punch,' he says. 'For simple breads, there's no room for error, so I'm meticulous from the very first step. The sense of accomplishment when a bread turns out exactly as I envisioned is unparalleled.' Since childhood, when he loved cooking, Mochizuki continues to feel the joy of creation every day as a baker.

'I want to create many things that are unique to Tigre, to make this a place where I myself would want to live nearby,' says Chef Mochizuki. His expression reflects the cheerfulness of someone who has found a good balance between work and family life. The residents of Shimouma are likely already experiencing the joy of having high-quality, freshly baked bread readily available in their neighborhood. PANADERIA TIGRE is a reliable establishment where you're sure to find a favorite among its diverse offerings.


Bakery | Tigre 10



PANADERIA TIGRE
PANADERIA TIGRE

6-20-4 Shimouma, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3414-5269
Hours | 9:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Closed Tuesdays and the 3rd Wednesday
(8-minute walk from Gakugei-Daigaku Station on the Tokyu Toyoko Line)
http://www.panaderia-tigre.com/