Lounge
March 5, 2015
TOKYO PREMIUM BAKERIES | Episode 3: Signifiant Signifié
Part 3: Signifiant Signifié
A Taste and Texture Found Nowhere Else
Introducing "TOKYO PREMIUM BAKERIES—Tokyo's Natural Ingredient Bakeries That Nourish the Body—," a new series featuring bakeries in Tokyo that offer truly high-quality, delicious bread.
For our third installment, we visit Signifiant Signifié, located just a stone's throw from Setagaya Park. Bread lovers have surely heard the name Chef Katsuei Shiga at least once. We visited the popular chef's shop, which draws fans who travel from afar just to buy his bread.
Reporting and text by Fuyuki TogawaPhotos by Mizuho Takada
Long Fermentation, High Hydration, and Thorough Baking at High Temperatures
Turn onto Sangenjaya-dori from National Route 246, then head towards Setagaya Park. It's a one-minute walk from the "Jietai Chuo Byoin" bus stop. Signifiant Signifié is the building with the large glass windows near the crosswalk. The interior, with its imposing display and checkout counter, exudes a spacious, refined, and modern atmosphere.
We learned that Chef Katsuei Shiga is the son of a rice farmer from Niigata. He decided to pursue baking at the age of 21, seeking a profession that, while different from his father's, would involve creating something not entirely inorganic.
Since starting his career at a small bakery, he has continuously strived to create the "most delicious baguette" and has been crafting bread daily while contemplating, "How can I make bread that is good for the body?"
"Bread is, in a sense, a fermented food. It's only through long fermentation that new amino acids form and various changes occur within the bread, making it beneficial for the body. That's why I am absolutely committed to long fermentation."
The bread at Signifiant Signifié is characterized by its crispy exterior and moist, soft interior, a result of "long fermentation," "high hydration," and "thorough baking at high temperatures."
This is particularly evident in the "Baguette Platane." The cut surface has a sparkling sheen, a sign that the starches have been properly gelatinized.
Furthermore, due to the exceptionally high hydration, it has a unique chewy texture that seems to stretch in your mouth as you bite into it. Chef Shiga explains that high moisture content allows microorganisms to move freely within the dough, "dramatically enhancing the activity of amino acids."
The commitment to ingredients is also exceptional. For this "Baguette Platane," three types of flour, including French organic flour, are blended. It uses Muromaki deep-sea water, Vietnamese sun-dried sea salt, a small amount of dry yeast, and malt. Chef Shiga considers it the ultimate creation, made with the utmost effort possible today, as a "baker's testament."
Additionally, the "Pain aux Vins," packed with nuts and fruits, was conceived with the idea that "it could serve as a gift in itself." Red wine is used for the liquid, and Levain Liquid, a natural yeast starter, is used for fermentation. Its moistness, reminiscent of a fruitcake, and exquisite texture will surely surprise everyone.
"Trying new bread recipes is my life's work. If that passion were to disappear, I think I'd probably quit being a baker..." Chef Shiga says with a laugh.
Even now, he continues to experiment with five to six new recipes each month, in addition to his busy schedule which includes participating in department store events. His passion and energy for bread-making show no signs of waning anytime soon.

Signifiant Signifié
2-43-11 Shimouma, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo 1F
Tel. 03-3422-0030
Hours: 11:00–19:00
Irregular holidays
(1 min. walk from Tokyu Bus "Jietai Chuo Byoin" bus stop)
http://www.artandcraft.jp/ss/top.html

