Terumi Hagiwara | Reporting on Three Japanese Designers
FASHION / WOMEN
April 24, 2015

Terumi Hagiwara | Reporting on Three Japanese Designers


Terumi Hagiwara's Fashion Days Vol. 115


UNDERCOVER, ANREALAGE, FACETASM


Reporting on Three Japanese Designers



Ready-to-wear runways are increasingly showcasing the techniques and quality of haute couture, whether termed 'real couture' or 'modern couture.' Even Tokyo's fashion scene, which has historically maintained a distance from couture, is beginning to exhibit textures that echo its craftsmanship. This report focuses on three designers who embody this evolving trend.



Text by Terumi Hagiwara




“Paris is, after all, the Ultimate Stage” - UNDERCOVER



“The Paris Collections are the ultimate stage for designers,” says Jun Takahashi of UNDERCOVER, who has restarted his Paris shows after a two-year hiatus. Paris is a business arena for professionals, a place where one receives rigorous critiques not heard from fans or friends. The tension there is unparalleled. The theme for the Spring/Summer 2015 collection is “PRETTY HATE BIRD.” Alongside swans in tutus, menacingly cute black swans also appeared. Dresses featuring delicate tulle layered with embroidery are paired with trench jackets and riders jackets. Romantic yet real, the world of UNDERCOVER unfolded.


UNDERCOVER 01

UNDERCOVER 02

UNDERCOVER 03


UNDERCOVER Spring/Summer 2015 Collection



ANREALAGE Delivers a Surprise Following Tokyo



“Rei Kawakubo and Jun Takahashi, two designers I admire, must have had a reason for showing. I wanted to explore that reason,” says Kunihiko Morinaga of ANREALAGE, who made his long-awaited Paris debut. On stage, he presented monochrome garments that revealed prints when illuminated by lights, offering a surprise that echoed his Tokyo show. The following day, a reception was held at the select shop L'Éclaireur to showcase archival pieces.


ANREALAGE 01

ANREALAGE 02

ANREALAGE 03


ANREALAGE Spring/Summer 2015 Collection



FACETASM: Luxury Meets the Street



After Paris, the focus shifts to Tokyo Fashion Week. Closing the Tokyo shows was the popular brand FACETASM. While the brand initially gained recognition for its menswear, its womenswear has recently made a significant impact. Their coats and jackets exude luxury despite their street-inspired aesthetic, with details like feathers and lace adding a touch of opulence. I fell in love with their artificial flower ear cuffs and had to place an order.


FACETASM 01

FACETASM 02

FACETASM 03


FACETASM Spring/Summer 2015 Collection




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Terumi HAGIWARA
Fashion Director
She covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. She has contributed numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers, and also directs select shops.
Official Blog http://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/