Terumi Hagiwara's Serial Column Vol. 170: An Interview with Hidenori Kumakiri of BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, Who Has Moved His Presentation to Paris
An Interview with Hidenori Kumakiri of BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE, Who Has Moved His Presentation to Paris
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE moved its presentation venue from Tokyo to Paris after its October collection last year. In March, they presented their 2017-18 Autumn/Winter collection in a space near Place Vendôme in Paris, in an installation format. In a sunlit room, five models at a time changed outfits four times. The theme was "WAFUKU." Upon entering the room, clothes were displayed on hanging racks (straight hangers for Japanese clothing). Geta sandals and spool-like wound cord belts were on display. The day after their first Paris debut, we visited designer Hidenori Kumakiri at his Paris showroom.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
Tokyo Monster Takes on European Chic
BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE's Paris Debut
Q: This move to Paris was as planned. How do you feel about it?
A: Yes, I had been thinking about it for two years. However, there were many things I couldn't fully express in my first overseas presentation.
Q: The theme "WAFUKU" was unexpected. Was it a conscious nod to Japonisme for Paris?
A: BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE's first collection was themed around adults wearing children's clothes. I've always created clothes by merging opposing elements.
Q: I remember that. In the first collection, a mother and daughter appeared wearing the same size 10 rider's jacket.
A: That's right. And then "women's clothing and men's clothing," and so on... That's why "WAFUKU" as a theme felt natural in contrast to the "Western clothing" of Paris. But I didn't want it to be just a superficial "WAFUKU." I wanted to express our approach to craftsmanship and functional beauty.
He stood up suddenly and began explaining, taking down a single coat.
A: The width of kimono fabric is fixed at 37 centimeters. This time, I used wide fabric, cut it to 37 centimeters, and then stitched it vertically to create a garment that folds neatly. In contrast to the three-dimensional cutting of "Western clothing," I pursued the beauty of "flatness" thoroughly.
Q: I see. I always thought "three-dimensional cutting" was beautiful for clothing, but recently the trend is new volume. Kimono sleeves are also appearing frequently, and the styling of cinching with a belt continues into autumn and winter.
A: This knit is also like that. Normally, knits are made with a front drop so that the front and back panels don't shift. In this knit, if you fold the back panel horizontally straight across, the front and back align perfectly. This means the hidden shoulder line is at the back, allowing the neckline to naturally fall forward.
Q: That wasn't apparent in the installation.
A: That's right. Of course, I want the collection to be evaluated by the looks worn by the models, but I also wanted people to understand the approach behind it. I regret that I couldn't convey everything. For the next collection, I will present a compelling collection that combines "European chic x Tokyo monster." Please look forward to it.
After the Interview
In Tokyo, he always presented his collections with his usual team, but in Paris, with the addition of international staff, communication was challenging. At the finale of the last collection in October, they performed live music to declare their departure for Paris. It's still just the beginning. The reception from local journalists has been positive, and we look forward to the next collection as they aim for "Le Bon Marché!"
Hidenori Kumakiri
Designer, BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture in 1974
Graduated from Bunka Fashion College, Apparel Technology Department in 1997
Launched BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE in 2007
Debut collection in Tokyo
Presentation at Paris Fashion Week in 2017
A pop-up shop for the BEAUTIFUL PEOPLE 17-18AW Paris debut collection will open at GINZA SIX from Wednesday, October 25th to Tuesday, November 21st. This collection proposes new values by transcending boundaries, combining contrasting elements such as "Japanese clothing" and "Western clothing," and "Tokyo POP (neo-gyaru) monster colors" with "Parisian chic BCBG." Limited edition items will include accessories in monster colors, such as rider's jackets, and a special version of the name tote bag, usually only available at directly managed stores.
Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
Covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections every season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/