Talent Chinatsu Wakatsuki launched her brand "WC" in her mid-twenties, quickly growing it into a popular name. After her contract ended, she stepped away from design work, but following marriage and maternity leave, she has now launched a new brand, "WCJ," using her own capital. A talented woman who has made swift comebacks to the forefront of the cutthroat entertainment industry, even after two career breaks. What is her perspective on the fashion business now?

—You launched your new brand "WCJ" in 2019. What was the inspiration behind it?

“I had always thought about starting a brand again someday. Then, after getting married and having children, I think a different perspective emerged. I wanted to create bags that were not only particular about materials and design but also functional, like being ‘easy for moms with small children to use.’”

—You also offer apparel, but bags are still the main focus?

“Yes, it’s about 70% bags, 30% apparel.”

—There are many women's bags on the market, yet finding a favorite can still be difficult, can't it?

“There are many cute bags, but most are just about the ‘look.’ I want to keep making bags that are not only photogenic but also genuinely easy to use after you’ve taken the photo!”

—That might be a way of thinking closer to menswear.

“Exactly, so I often look to men's brands for inspiration. Men's products often have things like chargers built into their backpacks (laughs). The other day, I added an inner pocket to a denim jacket so it could hold coins. Just that alone gets comments like ‘You’re an amazing inventor!’ from women, but it’s actually inspired by the convenience of men’s items (laughs).”

—Now that you mention it, women's bags do seem to lack in functionality. By the way, who is your main customer demographic currently?

“Our customers from the ‘WC’ era are now moms like me, or in their thirties, and they want something stylish and impactful, but perhaps a bit more subdued. The other half are new customers.”

—WCJ offers products at a relatively accessible price point, doesn't it?

“I thought about how much mothers, who spend a lot on their children, can afford to spend on everyday bags. I personally felt I wouldn’t want to spend over 10,000 yen. But I’m working hard to ensure the quality exceeds that price.”

—As someone active as a talent, what is the position of craftsmanship in your life?

“I’ve never struggled with design; I enjoy it. Since childhood, I’ve had a habit of questioning ‘Why is it like this?’ Craftsmanship is how I can solve those things. Even when I look at high-fashion clothing, I think, ‘Why didn’t they do it this way?’… (laughs) ‘Who are you to say that!’ But that’s how I realize my own ideas of ‘I would make it like this.’”

—Looking at your products, many of them seem like designs you would genuinely use yourself. Can we assume you're expressing your own style that strongly?

“Hmm, I don’t intend to. But I only want to make products that sell. If I were to release 10 items that are just ‘good enough,’ I’d rather focus on one item that is ‘definitely this one.’ And when it’s ‘definitely this one,’ it ends up being something I personally like.”

—But pursuing what you like can often lead to something far from what sells, can't it?

“I can’t be that much of a creator. I have things I want to do, but if they don’t translate into money, I give up immediately and think of another path.”

—Oh, but that’s a crucial point, isn’t it? It sounds simple, but it’s surprisingly difficult to do.

“It might be a condition from continuing as a talent on a commission basis (laughs). Because I see sales figures as my own results.”

—Hahaha.

“A designer with strong convictions might look ahead several years, thinking ‘The world isn’t ready yet’ or ‘It’s still too early,’ even if their work doesn’t sell immediately. But I only look at the immediate reaction. In that sense, perhaps my mindset as a businesswoman is stronger than that of a designer right now.

—And that reaction, of course, refers to sales figures, not just the number of likes or comments, right?

“Likes and comments are free, so people react casually. Also, I think people will buy a product for a one-off collaboration. But if you want a brand to last long, you have to make good products that encourage repeat purchases. Even with many likes and comments, if it doesn’t lead to sales, I think it’s a different story.”

—That’s true. On the other hand, wouldn’t fans who hear you say that be shocked?

“I can say that because I make products that they can be satisfied with. I put a lot of thought into creating each product, I go through trial and error, and there’s love in every single one, so it’s okay.”

—When you shop for yourself, what’s your perspective when you’re looking at items?

“I look at all the high-end brands as part of my research. After all, I think the trends originate from there. I also buy things that are so out-there, I wonder ‘Who would buy this?’ I don’t want those kinds of designers to disappear, and I want them to keep creating. I want to remain a fan of theirs. I’ve always liked Alessandro Michele, Jeremy Scott, and also Marc Jacobs from way back; basically, I like people with an edge. I’m influenced by them and try to design things that can be adapted for a general audience.”

—You have a great deal of respect for creators.

“I always have this admiration, thinking ‘It would be so cool if they went that far out.’ But that’s not my goal, so I aim to bring it down to a more accessible level. It’s not like I’m holding back.”

—That sense of balance might be innate. From your perspective, how has consumer behavior changed in the roughly 10 years since you ran "WC"?

“The era where products sell just because they’re by a talent is over. It’s also no longer the case that celebrities wearing something makes it sell. There are so many options that people’s tastes have become more refined; I feel they’re truly looking at the products. And because there are so many choices, they’re becoming more selective. That’s why I want to continue making products that appeal to them, and I won’t waver on that.”

—What is your goal now?

“I want more people to say, ‘Don’t you have any easy-to-use bags?’ and have others suggest, ‘Check out the WCJ website.’ Recently, trends have become less distinct, or perhaps fewer people are jumping on trends even when they exist. Instead, more people are becoming defined by ‘If it’s X, then it’s Y,’ so I’d be happy if people thought, ‘If you’re unsure about a bag, go to WCJ.’”