An Interview with Ryuhei Oomaru of Oomaru Seisakusho, Who Handles Patterns for Numerous Esteemed NY Brands
An Interview with Ryuhei Oomaru of Oomaru Seisakusho, Who Handles Patterns for Numerous Esteemed NY Brands
Creating New Business: Oomaru Seisakusho 2
I first learned of Oomaru Seisakusho 2 a few years ago at the press exhibition for my own brand, "OVERCOAT." That collection featured a compact lineup of just a few styles, designed to be genderless, ageless, and sizeless, with the same models wearing each piece. The coats were striking, with minimalist, menswear-inspired fabrics elevated by surprisingly avant-garde, three-dimensional tailoring. Oomaru Seisakusho 2 is a pattern-making company based in New York, handling pattern work for many of the city's luxury brands. European houses invariably have Japanese modelists working alongside their creators. The delicate craftsmanship of Japanese artisans is trusted and essential in every maison. Oomaru Seisakusho 2 operates as an external partner, serving as a vital support for numerous New York design houses. With a client roster of around 80 companies, including Jason Wu, Public School, and Alexander Wang, they are a collective of fashion technicians that fills a previously unmet need. I finally had the chance to visit their New York atelier and interview Mr. Oomaru.
Photographs by Akira YamadaText by Terumi Hagiwara
The Ruler of Design—OVERCOAT
Q: What brought you to New York?
A: I worked as a patternmaker in Tokyo from 2000 to 2007. I was scouted by a brand run by a wealthy American and came to New York with high expectations.
Q: That sounds like a fortunate start.
A: Not at all. When I arrived, the company's performance had declined, and they rescinded their offer to sponsor my visa. I had come on a one-way ticket and was left completely on my own, unsure of what to do.
Q: So you couldn't even return home?
A: For the time being, I moved into an apartment with other Asians and started looking for work. That's when a Chinese roommate asked me to help with some pattern work.
Q: Your skills came in handy.
A: Yes, three-dimensional cutting can be done without speaking the language. However, the units were in inches, so the pitch was large, and it took some getting used to. For the next three years, I continued to work on patterns alone. I believe my experience in Tokyo was invaluable for this. I then realized the importance of nurturing staff and established "Oomaru Seisakusho 2," a group composed entirely of Japanese technicians.
Q: How many staff members do you have now?
A: Fifteen, all Japanese.
Q: What's the origin of the name Oomaru Seisakusho 2?
A: My father had a factory in Japan (unrelated to fashion) called "Oomaru Seisakusho 2." Recently, "Oomaru Seisakusho 3" was established.
Q: Is that in Tokyo?
A: Yes, it's the Tokyo atelier for Oomaru Seisakusho 2. We created it for our New York staff who wanted to return to Japan but continue working. All our clients are New York brands. Since the staff here are experienced and we have the internet, there are no issues with the work.
Q: So you even created a company to nurture and value people. You gained both technical skill and a certain spirit from your experiences in Japan. When did you start "OVERCOAT"?
A: I wanted to create a "ruler of design." A balance that allows people of different body types and genders to wear the same coat and look good in it. In fact, my wife is petite, but she wears the same items as me.
Q: What is your next goal?
A: To create new business. I believe that those who make things also need to PR them. Whether it's through e-commerce or a directly managed store, I'm not sure yet, but beyond wholesale. I'm also considering a made-to-order system for coats.
After the Interview
He attended the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, honed his skills, and then established his company with his innate business acumen. When he first started pattern work in New York, he rented a back room in a small swimwear shop in Chinatown. Thom Browne apparently came there to commission work. His current office is also in Chinatown, but it's a much larger space.
Ryuhei Oomaru
Representative Director, Oomaru Seisakusho 2 / Oomaru Seisakusho 3
Born in Fukuoka Prefecture. Began his career at a Japanese maison brand before moving to the US in 2006.
In 2008, he founded Oomaru Seisakusho 2 Inc., providing design planning, pattern production, and sample sewing services to numerous creators.
In 2012, established Oomaru Seisakusho 3 Co., Ltd. in Tokyo.
In 2014, received the 2nd CFDA Fashion Manufacturing Initiative Award.
In 2015, received the 33rd Mainichi Fashion Grand Prix, Amiko Kujiraoka Award.
WWW.OVERCOATNYC.COM / WWW.OOMARUSEISAKUSHO2.COM
Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
Each season, she covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections. She contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. She also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/