Terumi Hagiwara: Infusing Couture with a New Expression of Clothing
FASHION / WOMEN
December 12, 2014

Terumi Hagiwara: Infusing Couture with a New Expression of Clothing


Terumi Hagiwara's Fashion Days Vol. 110


Couturiers Challenging New Forms of Clothing


A close-up on new collections from established and emerging designers who bring breadth and depth to haute couture, including Maison Margiela Artisanal and Bouchra Jarrar.


Text by TERUMI HAGIWARA





Masterful Deconstruction - Maison Margiela Artisanal



It's not just the heritage brands participating in Paris Haute Couture. Maison Margiela Artisanal has been presenting its collections in a show format, rather than a presentation, for four years. Their garments, deconstructed and reborn from vintage clothing, are truly one-of-a-kind. The collection opened with a white shirt and white trousers. Heavy gobelin weaves and beaded tunics were paired with white knee-high boots. A mosaic-like patchwork beaded dress and a dress combining a stadium jumper with a satin skirt offered a novel eveningwear silhouette. The accompanying fine jewelry collection was themed 'Heritage,' presenting heirlooms with a delicate, modern finish.

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MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA | 2014 Autumn/Winter Artisanal Collection




Bouchra Jarrar Embraces Ready-to-Couture



Bouchra Jarrar, who honed her couture skills at Balenciaga, has been presenting her own real couture for four years. Her pleated skirts and cigarette pants, paired with motorcycle jackets, offer a simple urban style. This is ready-to-wear that conceals the artisanal techniques used to create her original fabrics.


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Bouchra Jarrar | 2014 Autumn/Winter Haute Couture Collection





Surreal Couture Dresses by Dice Kayek



Stéphane Coudert makes a comeback to the couture collections after a five-year hiatus. Her collection exudes refined elegance rather than overt glamour. Dice Kayek, who had been presenting both ready-to-wear and couture, unveiled a curated collection of sixteen looks. The models on the runway wore asymmetrical magic dresses whose forms shifted with the viewing angle. These are surreal sculptural garments crafted from layered satin with hidden seams.


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DICE KAYEK | 2014 Autumn/Winter Haute Couture Collection




Black and White "Tailored Dresses" - Gaultier Paris



Gaultier Paris presented a lineup of its signature tailored dresses, primarily in black and white. The ruffled collars, layered with organza, moved fluidly, while the chiffon draped skirts swayed elegantly. Sequins and mink trim created vivid contrasts.


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GAULTIER PARIS | 2014 Autumn/Winter Haute Couture Collection




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Terumi HAGIWARA
Fashion Director
Attends the New York, Milan, Paris Prêt-à-Porter, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Blog http://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/