The Meaning of a Three-Year Hiatus

──The Autumn/Winter season is about to begin. What prompted you to restart the brand?

Hideaki YoshiharaWhen we decided to pause "green," we had hoped to resume in two to three years. This time, there was a significant shift in our mindset for restarting. We felt "green" couldn't continue in an unfinished state, and that situation hasn't really changed. If our previous way of thinking persisted, we wouldn't have restarted now. After three years, and with the time constraints of raising children, we felt compelled to express what we could do now with all our effort, which led us to decide to restart.

──How did you engage with fashion information during your break?

YoshiharaDuring the "green" era, our days were consumed by work. After pausing the brand, we were busy with childcare, and naturally, our opportunities to engage with fashion information decreased. We didn't talk much about clothes together, and there were also events like the Lehman Shock and the earthquake.

──Were you apprehensive about restarting the brand?

YoshiharaMore than our intuitive sense for making clothes, we were concerned about communication with the artisans and manufacturers. During the "green" era, we had built mature relationships as a team within a larger framework, which resulted in good craftsmanship, so we were worried about the gap. While we were confident in our clothing production during the "green" days, the speed of the brand's growth was rapid, and we felt the difficulty of taking that next step, thinking, 'I want to do more.'

──So, was the interval beneficial?

YoshiharaYes. For this debut collection, we deliberately scaled down the production, which felt natural for us now, and we're glad we did. We're relieved that about 70-80% of the artisans and factories we worked with previously are collaborating with us again.
Also, spending time away from fashion allowed our interest in clothing to gradually reawaken. At 40, we've been able to feel something akin to what we felt in our teens and twenties, which I believe has been a great asset.

"HYKE": Expressing Our Natural Selves

──What are your respective roles?

YoshiharaWe collaborate on planning together. I handle the creative direction, including branding and the website, while Ode is in charge of all aspects of production, such as sampling and manufacturing. We work through exchanging opinions.

──What is the meaning behind the brand name "HYKE"?

Yoshihara"HYKE" is an arrangement of the initials of our family members' first names. When we were considering a new brand name, we wanted to design with as much freedom as possible, so we didn't want a name with a concept or a direct impact on the design. We felt it was best to simply represent our identity.
We felt that if people associated it with the "green" of its heyday, there would be a gap. As a statement of starting from scratch, we launched the new brand "HYKE" to express our natural selves now.

──The debut collection is womenswear only, correct?

YoshiharaSince our debut, we have consistently created collections in womenswear. With this restart, we wanted to focus on solidifying our core womenswear.

A Debut Collection That Embraces "NAVY"

──What was the reaction to the debut collection's exhibition?

YoshiharaAlthough it was a three-year hiatus, this is our first collection in four years since our last new release. At the exhibition, we received comments like, 'We've been waiting,' 'It's been a long time,' and 'There are more pieces than we expected, which is great.' The number of pieces is actually about half of what we had during the break... Currently, we can't restart on the same scale as "green," so we're starting again from zero, little by little.

──We heard you are particular about Japanese production?

YoshiharaYes. With the exception of some items, production is primarily in Japan. We want to work with artisans who enjoy creating high-quality, meticulously crafted pieces.

──Could you tell us about this season's theme?

YoshiharaAt HYKE, we don't set seasonal themes. Instead, we directly present inspiration sources and create by mixing them. For the debut collection, we combined the color "NAVY" with "U.S. NAVY," resulting in navy-colored pieces and designs inspired by marine style.
We analyzed the history and evolution of U.S. NAVY styles, then deconstructed the materials, patterns, and details as individual elements before reassembling them into designs.

What Do We Truly Want to Create?

──When I saw the exhibition, I felt the designs and color palette were very much in your signature style.

YoshiharaAs a brand continues its collections, it inevitably drifts away from its starting point. Through this hiatus, we've expressed what we truly want to create.

──Does setting a theme feel restrictive?

YoshiharaWhile setting a seasonal theme and pursuing that world view is one approach, we've used that method in the past and felt a sense of being unable to overcome an immediate hurdle. With HYKE, we want to challenge ourselves by not setting a theme and combining various elements in a free state.

──Fashion industry professionals and fans likely have expectations for the collection and perhaps menswear as well. The debut collection was presented online, wasn't it?

YoshiharaDuring the break, we observed the rapid spread and adoption of smartphones and the internet. Therefore, for HYKE, we presented our first video. Upon its release, we saw a high number of smartphone accesses, which felt fresh and interesting. We want to continue exploring new approaches.

Focus on Items Made with Original Materials

──Has the sizing changed compared to "green"?

Yukiko OdeThe basic sizing hasn't changed much. However, even with items considered "basic," the center point of the sizing can shift by millimeters, and there are adjustments based on how they pair with bottoms, leading to subtle changes. This season, we're proposing slimmer silhouettes for bottoms, so slightly larger tops feel more appropriate. Even slim shirts are now cut larger than before, which is the current norm.
To put it simply, in 2009 when "green" paused, the silhouettes were slim and long. This season, it's more about being wide and short. Please pay attention to the outlines, as we've focused on 'This season, we want to present it with this material and this balance.'

──When you say wide and short, do you mean a box silhouette?

OdeNot extremely so, but yes. For example, to achieve a boxy silhouette, we can't use wool gabardine that drapes softly. Instead, we select fabrics like saxony or serge that have a certain stiffness, and then apply a finishing process to enhance that structure. This way, we consider the overall volume and relaxed silhouette.

──You also have trench coats, which were a signature of the "green" era.

OdeThis season's trench coat is based on designs worn by British military officers. We're using the same original HYKE fabric as in the "green" era: a polyester-cotton yarn woven into gabardine and treated for water repellency.





Focus on Items Made with Original Materials

──Are there any particular items you'd like us to pay attention to this season?

OdeThe CPO jacket. We're using a HYKE original material that is heavily compressed to prevent the melton fabric from becoming fluffy, processed in a dense state. While it has a masculine appearance, please notice the supple material when worn.

──The variations in coats are also noteworthy.

OdeFor the duffle coat, the toggles and buffalo horn buttons are painted white. It's a single-layered duffle, and we've put effort into the structure of the hood, so please enjoy how it looks when worn. The peacoat is also made from a HYKE original material, a thinly napped beaver fabric derived from melton. The napping process creates a sheen, improves the texture, and gives it a crisp feel.

──Thank you for the explanation. Now, for the fans who have been waiting so long.

YoshiharaFor those who have been awaiting our collections, this hiatus must have felt like a very long time. We are finally able to resume our activities. We hope you will enjoy the HYKE collections starting from Autumn/Winter 2013.

Inquiries
HYKE (Bowls Inc.)
Tel. 03-3780-1239
http://www.hyke.jp