FASHION /
WOMEN
January 16, 2017
Terumi Hagiwara Series Vol. 161 | A Designer Challenging Timeless Garment Creation
Clothes That Shock the Wearer――noir kei ninomiya
Garments Beyond Time――YUGI PERSSON
My Pick for Spring/Summer 2017
Garments that sculpt form through their components. This is the world of Kei Ninomiya of noir kei ninomiya, who presents collections with a couture sensibility. Each season, I select pieces for my wardrobe. I encountered similar garments in the 90s, from Yugi Perssoon. After a hiatus from design, he returned to Paris in October. These are two designers challenging the creation of timeless clothing.
Text by Terumi Hagiwara
Noir Kei Ninomiya: Clothes That Invite Closer Inspection
Every season, I view over a hundred collections and visit showrooms worldwide. Among them, the brand that leaves a lasting impression and finds its way into my wardrobe is 'noir kei ninomiya.' Launched in 2012 by Comme des Garçons, the brand presents its shows at an atelier during Paris Fashion Week.
True to its name, all creations are noir (black). Embellishments like pearls, studs, and threads define the garments' forms. Each element is meticulously handcrafted, revealing new discoveries upon close examination. These are clothes that make you want to turn them inside out, to uncover their secrets. 'The brand has eliminated color to focus on technique,' says designer Kei Ninomiya. In the noir atelier, many methods beyond machine sewing are employed, with the sounds of hammering creating a lively atmosphere. The presence of these garments stems from their delicate details. I am drawn to this couture-like aesthetic right now.
The Spring/Summer 2017 collection opened with supple, voluminous dresses crafted from torn chiffon, joined by motifs. A coat features studs tracing the curve of the shoulder and sleeve, while a dress with semi-circular pearls outlines the body like a skeleton; the components bring the form to life. This season, I chose a studded dress with voluminous French sleeves for my wardrobe. It's a piece I want to wear simply.
My Pick for This Season
Yugi Perssoon is a designer from Antwerp who was active in the 90s. I was captivated by his form-creating garments, achieved through masterful cutting and meticulous stitching. Yugi returned to Paris in October during Fashion Week for a collaboration with 'Dust' (a culture magazine), releasing a T-shirt. I still cherish Yugi's clothes in my closet; they are all pieces I simply cannot part with. I hope to encounter many such garments again in 2017.
Yugi Perssoon Spring/Summer 2017 Womenswear Collection
Terumi Hagiwara | HAGIWARA Terumi
Fashion Director
Attends the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/