Terumi Hagiwara's Serial Column Vol. 158 | Designer Talk Session: KOCHÉ × FACETASM
FASHION / WOMEN
November 23, 2016

Terumi Hagiwara's Serial Column Vol. 158 | Designer Talk Session: KOCHÉ × FACETASM


KOCHÉ's Collection on Harajuku's Tonchan Street
FACETASM Takes on Paris


KOCHÉ × FACETASM Designer Talk Session


KOCHÉ visited Japan again following spring to participate in Tokyo Collection. Designer Christelle Kocher says, "I feel it's very important for cultures and races to mix in this era. Presenting in Tokyo is a welcome opportunity." This is a talk session between two people who are the same age, friends, and rivals: Christelle Kocher and FACETASM designer Hiromichi Ochiai.

Text by Terumi Hagiwara





Both Nominated as LVMH Award Finalists



KOCHÉ presented its collection at a shopping center in Paris's Les Halles, which was rebuilt in October. The show was a standing presentation amidst shoppers, with the concept of "wanting everyone, not just a select few, to see good clothes." That KOCHÉ was invited to Tokyo Collection and participated for the first time, choosing Harajuku's Tonchan Street as the venue. Two days before the collection, Christelle, who "loves Tokyo's culture," and FACETASM's Hiromichi Ochiai held a talk session. FACETASM made its Paris debut with its men's collection in June. Both were among the eight finalists for the LVMH Prize.


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Terumi Hagiwara (hereinafter Hagiwara)What do the Paris Collections mean to both of you? Why Paris?

Christelle Kocher (hereinafter Christelle)Parisian fashion has a history, starting with haute couture. I want to connect that couture with street style and modern art. I believe Paris is the right place for that. Of course, as I am French, it's natural.

HagiwaraYou were also considering showing in London, Mr. Ochiai?

Hiromichi Ochiai (hereinafter Ochiai)I participated in Milan Fashion Week as an invited designer by Armani and presented my work in Paris after being selected for the LVMH Prize. I used to have a complex about the barrier with overseas markets, but that's gone now. I realized I was creating the walls myself. At first, I thought about starting with London, but I believe Paris is where FACETASM can achieve the best results right now. I'm studying English now...

HagiwaraMs. Kocher, you also serve as the artistic director for the couture atelier "Le Marié," and that craftsmanship is reflected in KOCHÉ's designs, isn't it?

ChristelleHaute couture is both fashion and art. I want to create unprecedented works by connecting it with contemporary art.




HagiwaraHaute couture can be said to be one-of-a-kind customization. It's being re-evaluated now, but what are your thoughts on haute couture, Mr. Ochiai?

Ochiai: I believe our mission is to break tradition and create something new. Hearing Ms. Kocher speak has made me interested in haute couture.

HagiwaraWhat is the most important thing in making clothes?

ChristelleWhat you want to convey with the collection is most important. Passion, feeling, message. Cutting, color, and form are necessary for that. And the space, the wearer, everything makes the collection special.

OchiaiI'm always keeping my antennae up, thinking about what's missing in the current situation. Sometimes I realize what I wanted to create after making a sample.

HagiwaraThen, what meaning do you think wearing clothes holds?

ChristelleClothes are the greatest item for making one's personality attractive.

OchiaiSince my designs don't necessarily embrace everything, I want people to express themselves through their clothing by filling in that sense of incongruity.




HagiwaraIn the 90s, Comme des Garçons and Martin Margiela collaborated on a show during Paris Fashion Week.
This is a request for both of you, but I would be excited if you could do a collaboration collection.

OchiaiFashion is free, so perhaps someday if the opportunity arises.

ChristelleMy shows always have surprises, so it might be possible.

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After the Talk Session

I wore a jersey dress from KOCHÉ. Although it has an asymmetrical design with large cutouts at the shoulders, it fits perfectly. The multiple darts cinching the waist are beautiful and comfortable. I felt the meticulousness of couture craftsmanship through the body. It's a long length to the ankles with a deep slit from the thigh, coordinated with mountain boots. KOCHÉ, popular in Paris, and FACETASM, representing Tokyo – I look forward to the surprises these two will bring in the future.







Christelle Kocher



Christelle Kocher
KOCHÉ Designer
Born in Strasbourg, France, in 1978.
Graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2002. Gained experience at high-fashion brands.
Appointed Artistic Director of Maison Le Marié in 2010. Launched "KOCHÉ" in 2014.
Presented a collection at Amazon Fashion Week TOKYO 2017 S/S in 2016.






Christelle Kocher



Hiromichi Ochiai
FACETASM Designer
Born in Tokyo in 1978.
Graduated from Bunka Fashion College in 1999.
Launched "FACETASM" in 2007.
Debut at Tokyo Collection in 2011.
Debut at Paris Collection in 2016.











Terumi Hagiwara



Terumi Hagiwara
Fashion Director
Covers New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/