Changes Felt Through Years of Watching Collections

It's been nearly 25 years since I started covering the Paris collections. Looking back at the Fall/Winter 2012-13 collections, I sense a different kind of change than before. What common threads did the collections that left a strong impression in Milan and Paris share… they were about fine clothing that transcends trends. Jil Sander, Nina Ricci, Haider Ackermann. What these three collections had in common, and what made them particularly memorable, was a focus beyond color, material, or design, on the meticulous quality and the cutting that pursues form.





Haider Ackermann presented long silhouettes layered in his signature dark colors. Taupe, purple, orange, and brown. Silk satin layered with double-face, leather with tweed to create contrast. Wavy draping and peplums were cinched with corset belts, emphasizing the silhouette. Elegant long skirts and pants paired with voluminous jackets featuring banana or dolman sleeves.

The collection offered pieces that one would want to cherish and pass down, transcending seasonal trends.