Collecting Data to Create Original Shoe Lasts

Eiko Kosaka, the designer who founded KATIM, spent her childhood in London and worked as a salesperson for street brands during her student years. She studied abroad in London while in university and, after graduating, worked for domestic and international brands in roles such as overseas production management, international sales, and assistant designer.

“I believe many people experience a change in their preferred clothing style as they age. I myself have come to wear clothes that feel more like me, rather than sticking to specific brands. Shoes, the only fashion item that can easily cause pain, can add spice to an outfit, but they also require study and have value from both an ergonomic and orthopedic perspective. It was as I came to feel that creating shoes as a wardrobe staple made sense that I began to think this way,” says Kosaka.

What’s remarkable about KATIM’s approach to shoemaking is that they began by collecting foot data by age group, analyzing this data, and then creating lasts that capture the characteristics and lifestyles of modern feet, based on calculated standard values.

“I wanted to understand why shoes hurt, so I decided to analyze the data. Once I had a grasp of average foot shapes, I began working with my partner, who carves wooden lasts, to actually create them. After the lasts incorporating the designs were ready, I added heel height, wrapped them in muslin, drew the designs with a pencil, and devised paper patterns that would function in a highly three-dimensional and industrial production setting with skilled craftspeople. Then, I selected materials that matched the concept and design of each model and assembled them. To balance design and function, I drew inspiration from academic papers and sought advice from ergonomics professors, repeatedly refining the designs without compromising them, to create the first pair,” Kosaka explains the development process.

The brand’s debut was thus planned for April of this year. The first collection, the Spring/Summer 2016 collection, was unveiled in September.

Model Names Inspired by Roads Dear to the Designer

KATIM launches with two lines: ready-to-wear for women and made-to-order (semi-hand-welted) for men and women. By the way, each KATIM model is given a distinctive name. “DURHAM, with its somewhat nostalgic, classic atmosphere, is the name of the road in front of the house where I lived in London as a child. BELLEVUE is a road in Paris perfect for a scenic stroll, and DENDO is the name of a hilly road in Meguro, Tokyo. All are roads I have fond memories of and love,” she says, explaining that the names were inspired by the images of these roads.

Kosaka, who also holds a “Certified Orthopedic Shoemaker” qualification from Germany, states, “When your feet hurt, your entire day can be disrupted. For example, the BELLEVUE model uses suede, and while it has a luxurious finish with a seamless center and slit, it results in a shoe that is easy to wear and soft even for feet with mild deformities (such as slight bunions) within the range of individuality. In addition to this synergy of functional beauty and design, we focus on elements like accentuating with skin stitch or chain stitch, high-shining the calfskin toe and heel, and expressing mesh with high-quality calfskin. We also emphasize the materials, handcraftsmanship, and designs that create a modern look.”


“While I personally like glamorous and trendy shoes, the foundation of KATIM’s expression lies in timeless tradition and classicism. I also wanted to propose shoes that can be worn for a long time, that can be nurtured over time through custom orders. Whether it’s pumps for enjoying the moment or traditional shoes, we are not offering mere comfort shoes, but are planning and producing lasts with excellent foot comfort entirely as original fashion items.” Kosaka explains her reasoning for launching made-to-order services simultaneously with the brand’s debut.

Kosaka expressed her ambition: “At KATIM, we will continue to strive for maturity as a brand by expanding our range of lasts that can be comfortably worn not only by those with average foot shapes but also by those whose foot shapes deviate from the norm or who are not accustomed to heels, in addition to the luxurious feel derived from the combination of materials and craftsmanship.”