FASHION /
WOMEN
March 13, 2015
Feature | Spring/Summer Must-Haves from Popular Japanese Designer Brands
sacai, TOGA, kolor, MUVEIL, FACTOTUM, poral., AMBELL
Top 3 Must-Have Items from Popular Japanese Designer Brands, According to Brand PR
Spring/Summer 2012 Collection: Full Lookbook Revealed!
Introducing the full lookbook for the Spring/Summer 2012 collections from Japanese designer brands, highly sought after by buyers at top select shops! We also reveal the Top 3 items that garnered the most support from buyers, as secretly shared by brand PR representatives. What were the endorsed items that caught the eye of these discerning experts?
Text by FUJITA Mayu (OPENERS)
sacai
Chitose Abe
A collection characterized by lean, minimalist silhouettes and a light, three-dimensional feel created by the movement of sheer fabrics.──The keyword is “transparent elegance.” The color palette is based on clean whites, navies, and beiges, with spring and summer-appropriate blues, yellows, greens, and pale tones used as accents. Vibrant solid colors, along with bowler lace and chiffon crafted from cupro fabric, lend a fresh, seasonal feel. A rider's jacket with a three-dimensional back style, a dress combining a pleated blouse with a chiffon pleated skirt, and a knit jacket pairing a blouse with a camisole dress… These pieces reimagine familiar basics into entirely new, fresh styles.
sacai
Minami-Aoyama City House A-1F, 2F, 5-4-44 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6418-5977
www.sacai.jp
Chitose Abe
A collection characterized by lean, minimalist silhouettes and a light, three-dimensional feel created by the movement of sheer fabrics.──The keyword is “transparent elegance.” The color palette is based on clean whites, navies, and beiges, with spring and summer-appropriate blues, yellows, greens, and pale tones used as accents. Vibrant solid colors, along with bowler lace and chiffon crafted from cupro fabric, lend a fresh, seasonal feel. A rider's jacket with a three-dimensional back style, a dress combining a pleated blouse with a chiffon pleated skirt, and a knit jacket pairing a blouse with a camisole dress… These pieces reimagine familiar basics into entirely new, fresh styles.
sacai
Minami-Aoyama City House A-1F, 2F, 5-4-44 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6418-5977
www.sacai.jp

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“This season’s collection is symbolized by the striking trench coat made with bowler lace.Trench CoatIt instantly elevates a simple style with just one piece. The knit x lace dress, combining a knit pullover with a lace skirt and blouse,Knit x Lace Dressis notable for its material contrast. And the knit x shirt dress, which combines a cable-knit sweater with a shirt dress, a familiar basic item,Knit x Shirt Dressis recommended for its voluminous silhouette,” says PR representative Ms. K.
“This season’s collection is symbolized by the striking trench coat made with bowler lace.Trench CoatIt instantly elevates a simple style with just one piece. The knit x lace dress, combining a knit pullover with a lace skirt and blouse,Knit x Lace Dressis notable for its material contrast. And the knit x shirt dress, which combines a cable-knit sweater with a shirt dress, a familiar basic item,Knit x Shirt Dressis recommended for its voluminous silhouette,” says PR representative Ms. K.
sacai luck
Chitose Abe
Like sacai, sacai luck operates under the concept of “design that exists on top of everyday life,” offering collections focused on more relaxed scenes. For Spring/Summer 2012, they propose an elegant yet fresh collection with vibrant colors and patterns as accents. Classic items like trench coats, collarless jackets, sailor pants, and cardigans are reimagined with vivid color lace, lamé-yarn multi-borders, and pastel paisley prints, creating new standards through innovative materials and details. Their creations are superb.
sacai
Minami-Aoyama City House A-1F, 2F, 5-4-44 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6418-5977
www.sacai.jp
Chitose Abe
Like sacai, sacai luck operates under the concept of “design that exists on top of everyday life,” offering collections focused on more relaxed scenes. For Spring/Summer 2012, they propose an elegant yet fresh collection with vibrant colors and patterns as accents. Classic items like trench coats, collarless jackets, sailor pants, and cardigans are reimagined with vivid color lace, lamé-yarn multi-borders, and pastel paisley prints, creating new standards through innovative materials and details. Their creations are superb.
sacai
Minami-Aoyama City House A-1F, 2F, 5-4-44 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6418-5977
www.sacai.jp

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“The lace border dress, featuring grosgrain tape applied in a border pattern over lace,Lace Border Dressand the border cut-and-sew cardigan combined with a lustrous cupro tiered dress,Border Cut-and-Sew Dresswere both popular for their distinct styles. The lamé-yarn multi-borderLamé Border Collarless Jacketjacket is characterized by the chains and fringes on the sleeves, pockets, and zipper,” says PR representative Ms. K.
“The lace border dress, featuring grosgrain tape applied in a border pattern over lace,Lace Border Dressand the border cut-and-sew cardigan combined with a lustrous cupro tiered dress,Border Cut-and-Sew Dresswere both popular for their distinct styles. The lamé-yarn multi-borderLamé Border Collarless Jacketjacket is characterized by the chains and fringes on the sleeves, pockets, and zipper,” says PR representative Ms. K.
TOGA
Yasuko Furuta
Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tale inspired the 1948 British film "The Red Shoes," which carries a moral about losing faith due to worldly desires. Recently, this film was vividly restored under the supervision of Martin Scorsese. The theme for TOGA's Spring/Summer 2012 collection is “Vicky's nightmare.” It draws inspiration from the protagonist Vicky's glory and final moments within the allure and fame of ballet. The collection masterfully expresses the world of "The Red Shoes" through a color palette of soft pale tones like yellow, blue, green, and purple, a sense of transparency achieved with delicate, sheer fabrics, floral prints reminiscent of a bouquet dedicated to a prima ballerina, and even chic black dresses.
TOGA Harajuku Store
Mansion 31B栋1F, 6-31-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6419-8136
http://www.toga.jp/
Yasuko Furuta
Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tale inspired the 1948 British film "The Red Shoes," which carries a moral about losing faith due to worldly desires. Recently, this film was vividly restored under the supervision of Martin Scorsese. The theme for TOGA's Spring/Summer 2012 collection is “Vicky's nightmare.” It draws inspiration from the protagonist Vicky's glory and final moments within the allure and fame of ballet. The collection masterfully expresses the world of "The Red Shoes" through a color palette of soft pale tones like yellow, blue, green, and purple, a sense of transparency achieved with delicate, sheer fabrics, floral prints reminiscent of a bouquet dedicated to a prima ballerina, and even chic black dresses.
TOGA Harajuku Store
Mansion 31B栋1F, 6-31-10 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6419-8136
http://www.toga.jp/

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“The high-cotton jersey gathered sleeve cutsew, with its striking voluminous sleeves,High-Cotton Jersey Gathered Sleeve Cutsewwas particularly popular in a vibrant yellow. The silk-cotton knit mosaic color sweater, with its contrasting colors on the collar, body, and sleeves,Silk-Cotton Knit Mosaic Color Sweaterfeatures tulle on the sleeves and stone embellishments on the collar and sleeve ruffles. The nylon tutu skirt with leather belt, made of pale, sheer tulle fabric,Nylon Tutu Skirt with Leather Beltis recommended for styling with a jumpsuit, as seen in the lookbook,” says PR representative Ms. Machiko Abe.
“The high-cotton jersey gathered sleeve cutsew, with its striking voluminous sleeves,High-Cotton Jersey Gathered Sleeve Cutsewwas particularly popular in a vibrant yellow. The silk-cotton knit mosaic color sweater, with its contrasting colors on the collar, body, and sleeves,Silk-Cotton Knit Mosaic Color Sweaterfeatures tulle on the sleeves and stone embellishments on the collar and sleeve ruffles. The nylon tutu skirt with leather belt, made of pale, sheer tulle fabric,Nylon Tutu Skirt with Leather Beltis recommended for styling with a jumpsuit, as seen in the lookbook,” says PR representative Ms. Machiko Abe.
kolor
Junichi Abe
While employing techniques that seem to contradict simplicity at first glance, kolor excels at achieving a subtle balance that maintains a simple and real impression. For example, they combine men's-style vintage chinos with delicate, hand-knitted collars, or pair crisp linen coating and cotton ramie moleskin with feminine cupro satin. They also propose a unique style that goes beyond mere beauty and refinement by combining different elements, such as switching out knits in parts or using asymmetrical details and materials with different designs on each sleeve.
kolor Minami-Aoyama
B1F, 5-6-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5464-5471
www.kolor.jp
Junichi Abe
While employing techniques that seem to contradict simplicity at first glance, kolor excels at achieving a subtle balance that maintains a simple and real impression. For example, they combine men's-style vintage chinos with delicate, hand-knitted collars, or pair crisp linen coating and cotton ramie moleskin with feminine cupro satin. They also propose a unique style that goes beyond mere beauty and refinement by combining different elements, such as switching out knits in parts or using asymmetrical details and materials with different designs on each sleeve.
kolor Minami-Aoyama
B1F, 5-6-10 Minami-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5464-5471
www.kolor.jp

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“The bottoms, featuring a flowing ribbon at the center back waist, are recommended to be styled with the top tucked in to accentuate the ribbon.BottomsThe cardigan, with its contrasting tape accents, is a fresh piece with gathers along the switching lines and a tailored collar. The cuteCardiganculottes, made from fabric with random lamé lines, are tailored into an asymmetrical design with gathers, creating a soft, feminine silhouette,” says PR representative Ms. Yoshie Otsuka.Culottesare tailored into an asymmetrical design with gathers, creating a soft, feminine silhouette,” says PR representative Ms. Yoshie Otsuka.
“The bottoms, featuring a flowing ribbon at the center back waist, are recommended to be styled with the top tucked in to accentuate the ribbon.BottomsThe cardigan, with its contrasting tape accents, is a fresh piece with gathers along the switching lines and a tailored collar. The cuteCardiganculottes, made from fabric with random lamé lines, are tailored into an asymmetrical design with gathers, creating a soft, feminine silhouette,” says PR representative Ms. Yoshie Otsuka.Culottesare tailored into an asymmetrical design with gathers, creating a soft, feminine silhouette,” says PR representative Ms. Yoshie Otsuka.
MUVEIL
Michiko Nakayama
This season, inspired by the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, who continuously depicted her unique surrealism, the theme is “Go to chaotic south.” The collection, where various elements coexist at its core, is truly “CHAOS”! The patterns range from tropical to delicate and soft, like paintings. Batik and floral prints are applied to high-quality fabrics, modernly expressing the rustic warmth and earthy feel of South America. Furthermore, the handwork, which has been a focus in previous collections, is incorporated more extensively this season, bringing a unique warmth to the garments themselves. For key coordinating items, they propose an unbalanced look by pairing with men's-style cummerbunds, offering a “retro” styling that is uniquely MUVEIL, rather than simply “classic.” By unifying the palette with calm, gentle hues rather than vivid ones, the collection achieves a sophisticated, mature feminine impression.
MUVEIL
Tel. 03-5456-2012
www.feelthegarden.com
Michiko Nakayama
This season, inspired by the Mexican painter Frida Kahlo, who continuously depicted her unique surrealism, the theme is “Go to chaotic south.” The collection, where various elements coexist at its core, is truly “CHAOS”! The patterns range from tropical to delicate and soft, like paintings. Batik and floral prints are applied to high-quality fabrics, modernly expressing the rustic warmth and earthy feel of South America. Furthermore, the handwork, which has been a focus in previous collections, is incorporated more extensively this season, bringing a unique warmth to the garments themselves. For key coordinating items, they propose an unbalanced look by pairing with men's-style cummerbunds, offering a “retro” styling that is uniquely MUVEIL, rather than simply “classic.” By unifying the palette with calm, gentle hues rather than vivid ones, the collection achieves a sophisticated, mature feminine impression.
MUVEIL
Tel. 03-5456-2012
www.feelthegarden.com

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“The most popular item, the denim dress,Denim Dressis made from indigo-dyed Tencel denim with a bleach wash for a moderately vintage look that gives it a deep expression. The feminine ruffled collar paired with a mannish cummerbund creates a fresh coordination. The print cami dress from this season's main print series,Print Cami Dresshas a moderate sheen and a light, soft texture that creates a feminine and gentle impression. And the chino pants from 'MUVEIL WORK'”Chino Pantsare popular for both their material and silhouette! They can be styled in various ways with the linen belt as an accent,” says PR representative Ms. Kumiko Terai.
“The most popular item, the denim dress,Denim Dressis made from indigo-dyed Tencel denim with a bleach wash for a moderately vintage look that gives it a deep expression. The feminine ruffled collar paired with a mannish cummerbund creates a fresh coordination. The print cami dress from this season's main print series,Print Cami Dresshas a moderate sheen and a light, soft texture that creates a feminine and gentle impression. And the chino pants from 'MUVEIL WORK'”Chino Pantsare popular for both their material and silhouette! They can be styled in various ways with the linen belt as an accent,” says PR representative Ms. Kumiko Terai.
poral.
Yosuke Aiizawa
poral., the women's brand by Yosuke Aiizawa, designer of the popular men's brand "White Mountaineering," has garnered attention since its launch in 2011. It expresses a gentle, beautiful, yet strong feminine image by incorporating meticulous details characteristic of menswear into feminine designs. For Spring/Summer 2012, the collection features a color palette reminiscent of mist, combining impactful strong colors with soft, gentle hues. The garments are given a three-dimensional quality by layering jacquard and prints onto delicate colors. Pay attention to the silhouette when viewed from the side, which is calculated to create beautiful movement as the wearer walks.
Main Retailers
Isetan Shinjuku (Re-Style PLUS), BEAMS STREET, BEAMS TIME, etc.
Poral.
Tel. 03-6416-9111
poral-web.com
Yosuke Aiizawa
poral., the women's brand by Yosuke Aiizawa, designer of the popular men's brand "White Mountaineering," has garnered attention since its launch in 2011. It expresses a gentle, beautiful, yet strong feminine image by incorporating meticulous details characteristic of menswear into feminine designs. For Spring/Summer 2012, the collection features a color palette reminiscent of mist, combining impactful strong colors with soft, gentle hues. The garments are given a three-dimensional quality by layering jacquard and prints onto delicate colors. Pay attention to the silhouette when viewed from the side, which is calculated to create beautiful movement as the wearer walks.
Main Retailers
Isetan Shinjuku (Re-Style PLUS), BEAMS STREET, BEAMS TIME, etc.
Poral.
Tel. 03-6416-9111
poral-web.com

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“The V-neck knit pullover, characterized by the combination of an original jacquard pattern on the front and a voluminous cotton back,V-Neck Knit Pulloveris fresh with its vibrant ribbed color accents and side silhouette. The shop coat, featuring a tapestry pattern created with opal processing,Shop Coathas pleats made of soft material on the back, creating a feminine silhouette and movement when walking. The original small floral print silk dress, with its distinctive color blocking,Small Floral Print Silk Dressis recommended to be worn simply on its own,” says PR representative Ms. Kazuya Ota.
“The V-neck knit pullover, characterized by the combination of an original jacquard pattern on the front and a voluminous cotton back,V-Neck Knit Pulloveris fresh with its vibrant ribbed color accents and side silhouette. The shop coat, featuring a tapestry pattern created with opal processing,Shop Coathas pleats made of soft material on the back, creating a feminine silhouette and movement when walking. The original small floral print silk dress, with its distinctive color blocking,Small Floral Print Silk Dressis recommended to be worn simply on its own,” says PR representative Ms. Kazuya Ota.
FACTOTUM femme
Koji Udo
FACTOTUM builds its collections based on denim, military, and workwear, drawing inspiration from the people, landscapes, and atmosphere encountered in various countries. Since 2010, they have launched the women's collection "FACTOTUM femme," developing each season around a theme and offering unisex proposals. The theme for the Spring/Summer 2012 season is “Sunday at the park.” Inspired by the hippie culture of 1970s America, the collection expresses a style imbued with the bright, free spirit of a community gathering in a park on a Sunday.
FACTOTUM FLAG SHOP
11-3 Uguisudani-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5459-9779
http://www.factotum.jp
FACTOTUM femme
Tel. 03-6692-7426

Koji Udo
FACTOTUM builds its collections based on denim, military, and workwear, drawing inspiration from the people, landscapes, and atmosphere encountered in various countries. Since 2010, they have launched the women's collection "FACTOTUM femme," developing each season around a theme and offering unisex proposals. The theme for the Spring/Summer 2012 season is “Sunday at the park.” Inspired by the hippie culture of 1970s America, the collection expresses a style imbued with the bright, free spirit of a community gathering in a park on a Sunday.
FACTOTUM FLAG SHOP
11-3 Uguisudani-cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-5459-9779
http://www.factotum.jp
FACTOTUM femme
Tel. 03-6692-7426

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“We want women to incorporate the meticulous details characteristic of our menswear. The men's-styleDenim Overallsdenim overalls are lightweight and comfortable to wear! The dress, made of light chambray denim,Dresshas a nostalgic color that is a key point for this spring and summer. We hope you'll wear it refreshingly. TheDenim Sailor Pantsare also popular among men, but they are a popular item for women too. They are dyed repeatedly with different bright colors, resulting in a denim with depth despite its bright hue,” says PR representative Mr. Naoya Asaba.
“We want women to incorporate the meticulous details characteristic of our menswear. The men's-styleDenim Overallsdenim overalls are lightweight and comfortable to wear! The dress, made of light chambray denim,Dresshas a nostalgic color that is a key point for this spring and summer. We hope you'll wear it refreshingly. TheDenim Sailor Pantsare also popular among men, but they are a popular item for women too. They are dyed repeatedly with different bright colors, resulting in a denim with depth despite its bright hue,” says PR representative Mr. Naoya Asaba.
AMBELL
Bunzo Kadono
AMBELL's philosophy is meticulous craftsmanship down to the smallest detail, expressing beloved "basics" with a modern approach. The theme for the Spring/Summer 2012 collection is “Flapper Marine Functional.” The collection is centered around the “flapper style,” symbolizing the 1920s when women, amidst great societal change, shed restrictive corsets and began to freely enjoy fashion by revealing their arms and legs. Fresh marine styles suitable for the spring and summer season, along with vibrant floral prints evoking the birth of new styles, express the free spirit of the 1920s.
AMBELL
Tel. 03-6452-4231
http://ambell.jp

Bunzo Kadono
AMBELL's philosophy is meticulous craftsmanship down to the smallest detail, expressing beloved "basics" with a modern approach. The theme for the Spring/Summer 2012 collection is “Flapper Marine Functional.” The collection is centered around the “flapper style,” symbolizing the 1920s when women, amidst great societal change, shed restrictive corsets and began to freely enjoy fashion by revealing their arms and legs. Fresh marine styles suitable for the spring and summer season, along with vibrant floral prints evoking the birth of new styles, express the free spirit of the 1920s.
AMBELL
Tel. 03-6452-4231
http://ambell.jp

What were the top 3 items most popular with buyers?
“The reversible 2-way coat is a delightful piece. We recommend styling it by blousing the sleeves for layering.Reversible CoatThe supple fabric with nylon warp threads is comfortable to wear and its elegant sheen creates sophisticated casual wear. The layered floral pants, which change their look depending on how the waist ribbon is bloused,Layered Floral Pantsare very comfortable to wear due to the powdery finish on the threads! In addition to the floral pattern, they come in solid black and beige, all of which were popular. The vintage-like stripedFlapper Marine Dressdress is appealing for its ease of wear, allowing for a layered look in a single piece,” says PR representative Ms. Mariko Toso.
“The reversible 2-way coat is a delightful piece. We recommend styling it by blousing the sleeves for layering.Reversible CoatThe supple fabric with nylon warp threads is comfortable to wear and its elegant sheen creates sophisticated casual wear. The layered floral pants, which change their look depending on how the waist ribbon is bloused,Layered Floral Pantsare very comfortable to wear due to the powdery finish on the threads! In addition to the floral pattern, they come in solid black and beige, all of which were popular. The vintage-like stripedFlapper Marine Dressdress is appealing for its ease of wear, allowing for a layered look in a single piece,” says PR representative Ms. Mariko Toso.


































