Clothing Uniquely One's Own: The Essence of Couture

A growing number of young designers are turning their attention to haute couture. Ece Ege, the designer behind Dice Kayek, ended her 20-year tradition of ready-to-wear shows last year to begin presenting her collections in couture. Her reason? "I want to create clothes that are uniquely mine, impossible to replicate." Ready-to-wear pieces shown on the runway would appear in fast-fashion windows just six months later. "If I keep making ordinary clothes that anyone can produce, I'll be swallowed by fast fashion." This realization led her to the idea of "clothing that only I can make, incorporating artisanal techniques," which in turn led to her couture collections. "Presenting a collection truly takes a lot of energy." For her Fall/Winter 2015-16 collection, she showcased asymmetrical dresses shaped with satin and voluminous tuxedo pantsuits with flared legs.

The Era of Real Couture Is Dawning

Bouchra Jarrar, who debuted four years ago, aims for "real couture." While assisting Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, she encountered archival pieces that were a revelation. "Paris holds such incredible techniques. I want to keep them alive and incorporate them into my own work." She pairs flowing silk pants and dresses with leather rider jackets. The style is utterly elegant, yet grounded in reality. From selecting the threads to weaving the fabrics and employing delicate cutting techniques, her creations possess a supple quality born from meticulous craftsmanship. This autumn, her work has become decidedly more modern, expanding the world of real couture.