FASHION /
WOMEN
May 20, 2015
Terumi Hagiwara's Series Vol. 125 | New Releases from a Major Maison Amidst Designer Change Buzz
Paris Collection Report: Hermès, Maison Margiela
New Collections from Major Houses Amidst Designer Changes
Designer changes at luxury brands have been a major talking point this season, with Hermès and Maison Margiela making headlines. One appointed an unknown newcomer, the other a controversial big name. This autumn brings a lineup of powerful creations ushering in a fresh breeze.
Text by HAGIWARA Terumi
Hermès' Modern Style Traces Its Heritage
Designer changes continue at luxury brands.
Hermès has appointed Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, formerly of The Row, as its new Artistic Director. The show was held in the indoor riding arena of the École Militaire, overlooking Place de la Bastille. The space was lined with mirrors, and guests viewed the catwalk from tiered seating.
The show opened with riding jackets inspired by equestrian saddles, featuring patchwork of calfskin with a glossy marine blue finish and supple suede.
Coats, jackets, and pants showcase masterful use of leather. Particularly eye-catching were the carpenter pants in leather, paired with white turtlenecks. Skirts adorned with Carrés (Hermès' signature square scarves) and dresses pieced together from multiple panels swayed gracefully. The clean, linear silhouette elegantly highlights luxurious materials like cashmere, mink, and shearling, used with minimal waste. Layering turtlenecks at the neck is a styling trend to watch this autumn. All 40 looks presented a modern Hermès style, tracing its heritage.
Galliano Explodes at Margiela
John Galliano was appointed Creative Director of Maison Margiela last October. His return to the runway at the January haute couture shows in Paris was a major topic of discussion.
Galliano's debut ready-to-wear collection for Margiela featured small shoulders, oversized collars, and a glimpse of alluring black fishnet-clad legs peeking from the hem of a maxi wool coat. Lace, organza, feathers, fur, and patent leather were combined to create contrast. The collection was shabby yet kitsch, yet undeniably elegant. The striking, almost unsettling makeup was signature Galliano. The collection was rich with understated playful elements like corsage chokers and fur shoes.

萩原輝美|HAGIWARA Terumi
Fashion Director
Covers the New York, Milan, Paris Ready-to-Wear, and Paris Haute Couture collections each season. Contributes numerous articles and columns to fashion magazines and newspapers. Also directs select shops.
Official Bloghttp://hagiwaraterumi-bemode.com/





