Marquetry, meaning inlaid work in French, is one of Hermès' signature artisanal techniques. A new model of the Arceau watch features this traditional craft. How are the intricate patterns, meticulously rendered in leather on a dial barely three centimeters in diameter, brought to life? I had the opportunity to participate in a workshop that offered a glimpse into this mastery.

Inlay is a technique where one material is shaped and set into another. Since ancient times, various decorative items and crafts have been created using this method. Familiar examples include jewelry and guitars adorned with mother-of-pearl or abalone shell, which are also known as 'inlay'.

At Hermès, several items feature marquetry—or rather, leather marquetry—combining various colorful leathers. Particularly noteworthy are the watch dials, which represent the pinnacle of marquetry, creating complex and delicate patterns by assembling tiny leather pieces and beads.

For this workshop, we were joined by a master craftswoman from Hermès Horloger, responsible for leather marquetry, to create a charm specially designed for the occasion. On the workbench were tools like tweezers and spatulas, adhesive, twelve leather pieces, and the charm base, approximately 4.5 centimeters in diameter. We proceeded according to numbered instructions.

To ensure completion within the allotted time, even for beginners, one side of the charm was pre-adorned with marquetry, available in blue and pink color schemes. Although the parts for the workshop were larger, they were all less than one centimeter long and barely five millimeters wide. It's astonishing to learn that the actual parts used by artisans are even smaller, with a thickness less than half of these. Notably, the adhesive used for marquetry has been refined over time to be gentle on the artisan's body and the environment.

Our instructor was Isabelle Rivière, a craftswoman specializing in watch marquetry. Early in the workshop, she cautioned, "The initial placement in marquetry is crucial; it dictates the entire outcome. Even a slight misalignment can cause the whole piece to warp."

I carefully slid the tip of the needle-like tweezers under one edge of a piece, gripping it firmly. The small size of the parts made me tense up, and my eyes grew tired. After confirming the orientation, I applied adhesive and set the piece in its designated spot. Using a spatula, I pressed the piece down to ensure a smooth surface and blotted away any excess adhesive with a cloth. Even at this scale, it was challenging...

According to Isabelle, "Even though we artisans usually love to chat, we become silent when we start working on marquetry. It's a task that requires intense concentration, and we can't sustain it for long periods. When we feel tired, we often pause the marquetry work and move on to creating straps or bags."

Just gripping the pieces was a struggle, let alone applying adhesive to an area smaller than a grain of rice and fitting them together without gaps. The artisans who create marquetry for watch dials work with even smaller pieces, repeating this process countless times – it's truly awe-inspiring.

After placing the final piece, Isabelle performed a final inspection. She meticulously checked for even the slightest gaps, refitting any inadequately placed pieces. The organic form, created by pieces of varying sizes and shapes, unfolded, and the harmonious color palette was a delight to the eyes.

The charm was completed by threading tassels through the holes at each end. What initially seemed like abstract, flowing lines in the marquetry revealed itself: when holding the tassels on either side and twisting the charm a few times, a rabbit's face emerged. It was a design that came to life with rotation.

The image above shows the pattern from the instructions mirrored and combined left-to-right. The rabbit motif was chosen because it is the zodiac animal of the year. The deliberate inclusion of a rotating mechanism reflects Hermès' 2023 annual theme, 'Enchanting Discoveries.' Such thoughtful details are characteristic of the maison.

Isabelle, who has been creating marquetry for watches for eight years, shared, "I've been with Hermès for 35 years now. After starting my career as a shoemaker, I've continuously learned from and inspired the artisans in the ateliers, sharing our respective métiers d'art. The marquetry technique, too, will be passed down from me to future generations of craftspeople and will continue to evolve."

Even for a workshop piece, the way tweezers are held, the pressure applied, and the amount of adhesive used drastically alter the final result. I realized there are skills that only years of dedicated practice can achieve. Our profound trust in Hermès stems from this respect for métiers d'art and the stories of the artisans who have inherited and built upon these traditions.