A gathering of fashion connoisseurs in a certain spot in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo.
FASHION / NEWS
March 11, 2015

A gathering of fashion connoisseurs in a certain spot in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo.


Liquor,woman&tears: Motohiro Kogi x Atsushi Okubo
Fashion Connoisseurs Gather in Tokyo's Minami-Aoyama


What is the most current form of suit style? Atsushi Okubo, a titan of the styling world, and Motohiro Kogi of Liquor, woman & tears discussed this at the brand's shop in Tokyo's Minami-Aoyama.


Photo: Ryoichi Yamashita




A Recommendation for Daily Suits



Liquor, woman & tears, an unusual presence that, in a way, is surprisingly part of the United Arrows group. Despite its rather eccentric brand lineup, this shop boasts a large number of fervent supporters, and its discerning selection draws attention even from within the industry.

One of the brands contributing to this is The Stylist Japan®, a rising label helmed by stylist Atsushi Okubo. Here, Okubo and Motohiro Kogi, director of Liquor, woman & tears, who share a connection that transcends generations, discuss all things related to "suits." Let's begin with the origins of The Stylist Japan.





OkuboAbove all, I wanted a button-down shirt with a really thick fabric. Brooks Brothers' were too large and the fabric too thin. So, I thought, 'I want to make a button-down shirt out of thick oxford cloth.' That was the very first idea.

KogiJust the other day, an editor from a certain magazine bought one of The Stylist Japan's white button-down shirts. Apparently, while in Paris for a collection, many people asked him about it. Michael Tapia, for instance, said, 'What is that button-down shirt?!'


OkuboAfter making the button-down shirts, the next step was 'suits,' but I wanted something for daily wear—something you could wear every day. But I also considered using fabrics you wouldn't normally associate with suits, or perhaps making them like the pants I always wear, like Ben Davis or Dickies. That would be impossible, wouldn't it? (laughs)
I thought it was impossible, but when I asked them to find fabrics, they first presented an incredibly thick twill fabric called 'Oni-Katsuragi' – 'Oni' meaning 'ogre,' suggesting it was as thick as an ogre's head! (laughs) If that was the case, I thought I had to make it with an impossibly precise construction to make it interesting, so I commissioned one of Japan's leading sewing factories. But the ogre-like thick twill kept breaking the sewing machine needles! (laughs) The factory said they never wanted to do it again! (laughs)
But the 'Oni-Katsuragi' suits were incredibly well-received.



Popular items continued to be created one after another.

OkuboNext, I really wanted to make suits using the fabric from Wrangler's Sta-Prest. That's perfect for daily wear in the summer. It doesn't wrinkle.
At that time, seersucker suits were popular because it was summer. But I thought hickory stripes would be better than seersucker, so I made suits with a very thin fabric, just barely suitable for hickory stripes. By the way, I have the pink one, and it's quite flashy (laughs).




On this day, Okubo was also wearing a shirt with a subtle, exquisite charm.

OkuboChambray shirts are an absolute must. With these, even a Pucci tie doesn't look vulgar. The fact that it's a chambray shirt with a button-down collar is what makes it great.

From the perspective of a shop that connects various brands with customers, what kind of presence does The Stylist Japan hold for you, and what does Okubo represent to you?

KogiI always thought he looked cool when I saw him in the United Arrows press room. I think the hint of vulgarity is a key point (laughs).

OkuboA certain vulgarity seeps through, doesn't it? (laughs)

KogiOkubo has worn so many different clothes over the years, and I feel like he's trying to convey that to younger people in an easily understandable way... perhaps that's his perspective. The Stylist Japan is the same; until now, there weren't suits that younger people could 'step into.' I feel he's like an older brother figure who picks up on those things.

OkuboIt's all about how you mix them, right? Stylishly. But that's difficult, you know (laughs).

KogiMixing classic and designer pieces with a street sensibility, rooted in 'black music' like R&B and hip-hop—that's the theme of Liquor, woman & tears.



Indeed, for younger people, suits have a distinctly different meaning than as work attire for professionals.

OkuboDaily suits. I want to wear a suit every day! You know, with elbows showing, wrinkles on the sleeves, and knees showing. Pockets bulging with things inside. Something that looks like it has a bit of lived-in feel. That kind of suit is, in a way, the best for me.

But those suits are tailored in one of Japan's leading sewing factories. They have to be well-made from the start.

OkuboThey're made beautifully, you see (laughs).

(Note) Sta-Prest / Stapleless
The so-called Sta-Prest series, made from a cotton-polyester blend, was produced from the late 1960s to the early 1970s. It was popular among many people at the time as wrinkle-free pants.



Motohiro Kogi
After working in men's press for United Arrows, he opened Liquor, woman & tears in Minami-Aoyama on September 1, 2006. He currently serves as director.
The theme for the brand's Spring/Summer 2008 collection is 'Clubber Children.'
While respecting the spirit of the 70s Flower Children, the collection focuses on clothing,
proposing styles for enjoying music at clubs and other venues.




Atsushi Okubo
Born in Hokkaido in 1955. After dropping out of Bunka Fashion College and working for an apparel manufacturer, he began his career as a stylist for Popeye and anan magazines at Heibon Publishing (now Magazine House). Since 1981, he has worked as a freelancer, primarily styling advertisements for commercials and posters. He is currently active in a wide range of fields, including styling musicians and actors, as well as PVs and stage costumes.





Liquor,woman&tears items can be purchased on the web shopping magazine "Rumors."


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