FASHION /
NEWS
March 12, 2015
CIVILIZED | Discover the Brand's Essence: Two High-Spec Outerwear Pieces Arrive
CIVILIZED
2011-12 Autumn/Winter Collection "MOBILITY"
A Glimpse into the Brand's Essence: Two New Outerwear Pieces (1)
CIVILIZED is a menswear brand that proposes innovative collections, maintaining its signature sharp, urban designs stripped of excess while offering functionality on par with sportswear and workwear. Its sophisticated style remains uncompromised, with design elements focused on ease of use and comfort so subtly integrated that they are virtually imperceptible. The true value of these garments will undoubtedly surprise anyone who experiences them. Now, new outerwear pieces that embody the brand's essence have arrived at the online store "rumors." We spoke with designer Satoshi Okukawa about their appeal.
Text by OPENERSPhoto by Midzuho TAKADA
The Brand's Iconic Jacket: ARTICULATE HOOD JACKET
—The silhouette is beautifully maintained, but what about the fabric?
Indeed, the silhouette holds its shape perfectly, yet the fabric itself is remarkably stiff and doesn't stretch. However, when you hold it, it's surprisingly light for its appearance. This is Cordura nylon, a material often used for bags and shoes, said to be seven times stronger than regular nylon. Its dense weave provides excellent water repellency, durability, and resistance to abrasion, making it incredibly robust. It's a high-performance material used in demanding situations requiring advanced functionality. Although it's only lightly padded with cotton inside, the fabric's dense weave prevents wind penetration and retains heat, making it suitable as outerwear for deep winter.
—What are the details of the design?
The detachable hood is designed so that when removed, it transforms into a stand-collar jacket, with the snap buttons concealed. While the visible snap buttons wouldn't affect functionality, they would detract from the sharp design, so they are carefully hidden. The ability to switch between a stand collar and a hooded style offers the joy of acquiring two jackets in one.
Down jackets that can be worn as both a stand collar and a hood typically have a flap at the edge of the hood that fastens under the chin. However, when worn open at the front, this flap cannot be secured. This leaves the flap dangling, which can catch on backpack or messenger bag straps and looks untidy. In the ARTICULATE HOOD JACKET, instead of fastening the left and right flaps together, snap buttons are incorporated inside the stand collar.
This prevents the flaps from opening, enhances the unity between the hood and the body, and creates a sharper silhouette.
Regarding the "sharpness" of the appearance, the pockets are not simply attached to the fabric but are created by cutting into the fabric itself. Inside the handwarmer pockets, there are zippered pockets for securing items, making a total of four pockets. This design enhances the sharp look while increasing the capacity.
Reducing Stress When Raising Arms with Unique Patterning
—How is this season's theme, "MOBILITY," reflected in the design?
Given the stiff, non-stretch fabric and the slim silhouette, normal construction would severely restrict movement. Therefore, with outerwear made from such rigid fabric, the common approach to allow arm movement is to widen the body. The restriction when raising arms comes from the upper arm area being pulled taut. To address this, we create ample room in the body width, allowing the entire garment to shift diagonally with arm movement. Naturally, this compromises the sharp silhouette. To alleviate this stress, we've ingeniously engineered the underarm construction.
The construction is easier to understand when compared to a regular T-shirt: the pattern under the arm is arched. By extending the pivot point of movement to the apex of the arch, it functions as a gusset. This allows the arm to lift from the shoulder without stressing the upper arm. Furthermore, by incorporating gussets at the elbow, we've eliminated stress during bending and straightening. Similar to the pockets, instead of attaching fabric on top, the elbow area is cut out and fabric is applied from underneath. This integrates seamlessly, maintaining a clean appearance without the gussets being conspicuous.
—What were the challenges in completing the design?
Primarily, it was the angle of the arch when attaching the arm pieces. We would draft the pattern, create a sample from toile (a white fabric mock-up), try it on myself, and then redraft the pattern. This meticulous, repetitive process allowed us to pursue the optimal angle.
Additionally, due to the stiff fabric and the intricate work of cutting out pockets and elbow sections, along with the highly specialized underarm stitching, we placed considerable demands on the factory staff (laughs). They apparently ruined several sewing machine needles... Every factory we approached called it "haute couture." Initially, I thought they were exaggerating due to the difficulty, but it turns out the stitching is so unique that the conventional method of making the arms and body separately and then joining them is impossible. Everything must be handled from start to finish by one person. Thanks to the factory's efforts, we were able to create a piece where every detail holds meaning and value.
CIVILIZED
2011-12 Autumn/Winter Collection "MOBILITY"
A Glimpse into the Brand's Essence: Two New Outerwear Pieces (2)
CIVILIZED's Proposed Jacket Style: CLEARED JACKET
—I had the impression that your items were mostly casual; a jacket is a fresh direction.
I believe a jacket style is essential for men's fashion. It's a special item; it simply looks good, and wearing one makes you feel more poised. However, there's currently a move away from jackets, with people opting for nylon blousons that require less care in terms of material and wearability. This led us to consider a jacket style that CIVILIZED could propose.
—What about the material?
While this type of item is usually made from wool, the CLEARED JACKET uses "3-layer" fabric, a high-performance nylon with a waterproof and breathable finish that repels water and releases internal moisture. It's a material commonly found in mountain parkas. Since you don't need to worry about its durability against abrasion or moisture, you can wear it casually like a blouson. If it suddenly starts raining, the material makes a difference to your mood compared to wool.
—What are the signature CIVILIZED details?
Specifications like the working cuffs and the center vent are tailored in the traditional manner of a classic blazer. It's a 3-way design, wearable as a hooded jacket, a stand-collar jacket, or a tailored jacket. Similar to the ARTICULATE HOOD JACKET, the hood is detachable, and all snap buttons are concealed. Removing the hood reveals a stand-collar jacket. Unzipping the front and pulling out the lapels transforms it into a tailored jacket. Nowadays, slim-fit, sharp-shouldered silhouettes are mainstream, but structurally, the sharper the shoulder line, the more restricted arm movement becomes.
Therefore, while maintaining a sharp line, we've incorporated underarm gussets, just like in the ARTICULATE HOOD JACKET, to eliminate stress during wear.
Beyond material and comfort, the limited capacity of jackets is another drawback. The chest pocket is less for storing items and more for accessories, like a pocket square. Furthermore, both the inner pockets and the front flap pockets can distort the silhouette if items are placed inside.
Addressing the Limited Capacity of Tailored Jackets
How can we increase capacity without compromising the silhouette? We've incorporated zippers along the front panels that open up into large pockets. This area, at the waist's most naturally accommodating point, ensures that items stored here won't affect the silhouette. Additionally, a small patch pocket inside allows for easy access to frequently used items like a phone without having to search through the larger pocket. The placement and angle of this small patch pocket are meticulously designed so that your hand naturally falls into it when you bend your elbow, facilitating smooth access.
Also, jackets are typically worn as outerwear in cooler weather. However, the front flap pockets only allow for vertical hand insertion, making it awkward to use them as handwarmers. To address this, we've added another pocket above the flap pocket, accessible from the side like on a blouson, for warming hands. This cut is a traditional element of tailored jacket design, and when the zipper is closed, the pull tab is hidden by the flap, maintaining a seamless appearance.
—These items clearly prioritize functionality, not just comfort and material.
We focus on using high-performance materials and creating designs that don't restrict movement, but we are not making sportswear or outdoor wear. What we propose is strictly fashion. Fundamentally, I believe functional elements and convenience, like those found in sportswear and outdoor wear, should be integrated into everyday clothing. The reason is simple: we spend the most time wearing our everyday clothes. As long as the fashion aspect is maintained, any unused features are simply not utilized, and having convenient features is never a disadvantage.
For instance, if it looks like rain but you have an important meeting and want to wear a jacket, or if you're cycling but need to look presentable upon arrival, I would choose this jacket. A person's lifestyle is inevitably reflected in their clothing. Therefore, having a single piece that can accommodate diverse needs—design, style, material, comfort—is incredibly useful. We at CIVILIZED propose a jacket style that offers the usability of a blouson within the framework of a tailored jacket.
—Thank you.