RE-EDITION: Completing Your Winter Wardrobe

──You always describe your men’s collections as a wardrobe of pieces. Is this also true of your collaboration with H&M?
Your men's collections are often described as a "recreated wardrobe." Is this also true of your collaboration with H&M?

The collaboration with H&M is indeed a wardrobe of pieces, each one a re-edition of a Maison Martin Margiela garment from different seasons since we introduced menswear in 1998. When we selected the pieces for re-edition, we chose those that were classics from our archives, and which all together made up a complete wardrobe for men this winter.
It's the same for the collaboration with H&M. Each item is a "RE-EDITION" of pieces presented in various seasons since MMM launched its menswear line in 1998. When selecting items for "RE-EDITION," we chose classics from our archives that would complete this winter's wardrobe.

──What makes the perfect winter wardrobe?
How do you complete your winter wardrobe?

It is one where the different essential pieces work individually, as well as together to make a variety of outfits. The perfect man’s wardrobe will bring together much-loved pieces from the past with those that are newer, much like our collaboration with H&M.
It's a wardrobe where various elements are expressed individually, and when combined, create a multitude of styles. A perfect men's wardrobe is filled with beloved pieces from the past and newer favorites, much like this H&M collaboration.

──Tell us about the outerwear in the collection.
Tell us about the outerwear in this collection.

There are re-editions of four coats in the collection with H&M. The reversed-shearling coat is a re-edition from one of our very first menswear collections in AW 98, while the camel double-breasted coat with the inverted collar is a re-edition from our most recent men’s collection. There is also a faux fur beaver coat, and a fusion of several car coats. As well as these items, there is a jacket made from several belts.
There are four re-edited outerwear pieces in this H&M collaboration. The "reversed shearling coat" is from one of our earliest menswear collections, Autumn/Winter 1998, while the "camel double-breasted coat" with its inverted collar is from our most recent collection. Also featured are a "faux beaver coat" and a "car coat." Additionally, there's a jacket crafted from stitched-together belts.

Exploring the Essence of Maison Martin Margiela's Menswear

──The tailored silhouette seems very important to Maison Martin Margiela. Can you explain why?
The tailored silhouette seems very important to MMM. Why is that?

The processes of tailoring is one of our major themes in each of our men’s collections, exploring and often transforming the construction of tailored garments. In this collection with H&M we have a re-edition of a three-piece suit, which will be available in both nude and black. There is also a fusion of a single and double-breasted jacket, a jacket with fused details, and a mirror-ball tuxedo jacket.
The tailoring process is a major theme in our menswear collections, exploring evolving interpretations of tailored garments. For this H&M collection, we've re-edited a "three-piece suit," available in nude and black. It also features a hybrid single and double-breasted jacket, a jacket with fused details, and a "mirror ball tuxedo jacket."

──Why do many of the pieces involve deconstruction or altering the garment in question?
Why do some pieces incorporate deconstruction or alteration?

We have always questioned the function and utility of each garment that we design. While our women’s collections often involve changing the silhouette, our focus in menswear is more introverted, usually keeping any interventions within the original garment shape. For example, the reversed denim jeans and denim jacket have the body of the garments cut and restitched inside out, with only the seams and details the right way round. The reassembled Fair Isle sweater has the yoke reversed to reveal the pattern of the stitches beneath.
We always question the function and utility of each garment we design. While our womenswear collections often alter the silhouette, our menswear focus is more internal, typically maintaining interventions within the original garment's shape. For instance, the reversed denim jacket and jeans are cut and restitched inside out, with only the seams and details correctly oriented. The reassembled Fair Isle sweater has its yoke reversed, revealing the stitch pattern underneath.

──What inspired the supporter’s scarves sweater?
What was the inspiration behind the supporter's scarf sweater?

The supporter’s scarves sweater is a re-edition of a garment from an Artisanal collection, in which we transform existing garments or objects into an entirely new garment. For it, football supporters scarves were stitched together to create a sweater. This re-edition with H&M will also be made from football supporters scarves.
The "supporter's scarf sweater" is a re-edition from the Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal line, where existing items are transformed into entirely new garments. For this piece, football scarves were stitched together to create a sweater. This H&M re-edition also uses football scarves.

──Are there any accessories in the collection?
Are there any accessories in this collection?

There is a full range of accessories in the collection with H&M, which explore the main themes of Maison Martin Margiela. There is the oversized fanny pack, which is big enough to be worn across the body; the transformation of objects results in the faceless watch bracelet, or the open clasp watch bracelet, as well as the guitar cover weekend bag; there are boots, shoes and belts which have been hand-painted white, and the ambiguity of trompe l’oeil is shown in the trompe l’oeil high top sneakers.
This H&M collection features a wide array of accessories exploring Maison Martin Margiela's core themes. Highlights include an oversized "body bag" large enough to be worn crossbody, transformed objects like the "faceless watch bracelet" and "open clasp watch bracelet," a guitar case-shaped "weekend bag," hand-painted "shoes" and "belts," and Maison Martin Margiela's "high-top sneakers" showcasing trompe l'oeil ambiguity.

H&M's Head of Design on the Appeal of Maison Martin Margiela

──How would you describe the men’s collection by Maison Martin Margiela with H&M?
How would you describe the Maison Martin Margiela with H&M men's collection?

The men’s collection by Maison Martin Margiela with H&M is full of pieces that men will love to wear. It’s so clever how they make clothing that both feels like classic menswear, and yet is also full of original ideas and unexpected methods. The collection is all re-editions of archive garments, yet they all feel as if Maison Martin Margiela designed them today.
The collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela is filled with items men will love to wear. I found it clever how they create pieces that feel like classic menswear while also being full of original ideas and unexpected techniques. This collection consists of re-editions of archive pieces, yet they all feel fresh, as if designed just recently.

──Which do you think are the key pieces?
What do you consider the key pieces?

They are all key pieces, because each has been chosen as a re-edition of important garments from throughout the history of Maison Martin Margiela. Whichever piece you choose to buy, it is as if you are getting an archive piece from one of the most important labels of the past three decades. It can be something extraordinary, like the faux beaver coat, something classic like the tailored suit jacket, something experimental like the fusion of several car coats, or one of the great accessories, like the trompe l’oeil high-top sneakers, or the hand-painted loafer.
I believe all of them are essential key pieces, as each has been carefully selected for re-edition from throughout Maison Martin Margiela's history. Whichever item you choose, it's like acquiring an archive piece from one of the most significant labels of the past three decades. These range from the extraordinary "faux beaver coat," the classic "tailored suit jacket," and experimental pieces like the fused "car coats," to superb accessories such as the trompe l'oeil "high-top sneakers" and hand-painted "loafers."

──How do you think men should wear the collection?
How do you think men should wear this collection?

The collection is full of pieces that will become immediate classics in every man’s wardrobe. I love how the tailoring is both smart and also fashionable, especially the three-piece suit, which is sold separately so each piece can be worn with other items. There is a rock’n’roll feeling to many of the pieces in the collection, especially the hand-painted waistcoat and jeans or the guitar cover weekend bag. And pieces like the re-assembled Fair Isle sweater are perfect for cosy times this winter.
This collection is brimming with pieces that will instantly become wardrobe staples. I particularly love the blend of smartness and fashionability in the tailoring, especially the "three-piece suit," which is sold separately, allowing each piece to be styled with other items. Many pieces in the collection evoke a rock 'n' roll spirit, such as the hand-painted "vest" and "jeans," or the guitar case-style "weekend bag." Additionally, the reassembled "Fair Isle sweater" is perfect for cozy winter moments.

Clever Ideas and an Unprecedentedly Wearable Collection

──What are the trompe l’oeil pieces?
What are trompe l'oeil pieces?

Trompe l’oeil is one of the key codes of Maison Martin Margiela. It’s a way for them to play with design, and to introduce humor and ambiguity into their clothes. In the men’s collection, there is the trompe l’oeil confetti T-shirt, which looks as if it’s been covered in confetti, and a trompe l’oeil Fair Isle long sleeve T-shirt. It’s a top that’s been printed with the image of a knit. They are such clever pieces.
Trompe l'oeil is a key element for Maison Martin Margiela. It allows them to play with design, infusing their clothing with humor and ambiguity. In the menswear collection, we have the "trompe l'oeil confetti T-shirt," which appears covered in confetti, and a "trompe l'oeil Fair Isle long-sleeve T-shirt" – a top printed with an image of knitwear. These are incredibly clever pieces.

──Can everyone wear avant-garde fashion?
Can anyone wear avant-garde fashion?

Of course! I love how everyone will find something in this collection. There are so many men who rely on Maison Martin Margiela to fill their wardrobes. They know that it doesn’t matter how a collection is perceived, what is most important is the cut and thought behind the clothes. The Maison Martin Margiela collection with H&M is full of some of the most incredible and also wearable clothes we’ve ever produced.
Absolutely! I love that everyone will find something in this collection. I believe many men rely on Maison Martin Margiela to fill their wardrobes. They understand that how a collection is perceived is secondary to the cut and the thought behind the clothes. The Maison Martin Margiela collection with H&M is filled with some of the most incredible and wearable clothes we have ever produced.