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May 20, 2015
CoSTUME NATIONAL | New Flagship Store Opens in Japan! The Innovation of the New CoSTUME NATIONAL
CoSTUME NATIONAL
New Flagship Store Opens in Japan!
The Innovation of the New CoSTUME NATIONAL (1)
On September 1, 2011, CoSTUME NATIONAL returned to Aoyama. Not only did it make its re-landing with the opening of a flagship store, but it also simultaneously launched CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama Complex (commonly known as CNAC), a mixed-use building centered around the store. We spoke with designer Ennio Capasa, Ryuji Nakamura, a young architect who handled the venue's spatial design, and Patrick Blanc, a botanist and contemporary artist who created the commission work for the bar WALL.
Text by OPENERSPhoto by CoSTUME NATIONAL, JAMANDFIX
The Mixed-Use Building CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama Complex (CNAC) Also Opens Simultaneously!
Founded in 1986, CoSTUME NATIONAL is celebrating its 25th anniversary this year. Ennio Capasa's designs, described as "Edgy Chic," have created numerous trends and movements, including "minimal" and "androgynous." In its manufacturing, the brand consistently prioritizes authenticity, continuing to produce high-quality clothing backed by the traditional tailoring techniques of "made in Italy." Simultaneously, it actively incorporates the latest technologies, such as laser cutting, constantly pioneering new frontiers in fashion. Its innovative spirit knows no bounds.
September 1, 2011. This date marked a new chapter in CoSTUME NATIONAL's history. The opening of its flagship store in Aoyama was not merely a launch of fashion trends. The construction of a mixed-use building called CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama Complex (CNAC) created multiple spaces to offer more cutting-edge content, traversing various fields such as art, architecture, and design. On the first floor, three spaces were established, including the flagship store. The overall direction was overseen by Ennio Capasa.
First is CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama, literally the brand's flagship store. Ennio Capasa himself directed the shop's design. An operational plan and services befitting a full-scale relaunch have been prepared, including the release of Aoyama store-exclusive items and unique services for loyal customers.
Next is CNAC WALL.
This is a cutting-edge space featuring a domestic commission work of unprecedented scale by French contemporary artist Patrick Blanc on two wall surfaces (two green walls approximately 12m x 3m each), with two distinct areas: a counter bar and an outdoor terrace. His "vertical garden" is truly breathtaking! There's a secret to the plant arrangement, which Patrick Blanc himself explains. The selection of champagne and wine is also curated, offering a high-quality menu.
Next is CNAC LAB.
Centered around a non-profit exhibition program focusing on contemporary video art, this space will regularly host lectures, symposiums, and events across various genres, including contemporary art, architecture, and design. The special opening exhibition is "CoSTUME NATIONAL: 25 Years," an archival fashion exhibition looking back at the brand's 25-year history, primarily featuring iconic looks from past collections. The exhibition's spatial design was handled by young architect Ryuji Nakamura.
Within CNAC, numerous contemporary artworks are displayed, including Patrick Blanc's commission work, as well as pieces by William Kentridge, Wilhelm Sasnal, Shaun Landers, Hiroshi Sugimoto, and others.
CoSTUME NATIONAL
New Flagship Store Opens in Japan!
The Innovation of the New CoSTUME NATIONAL (2)
The Concept Behind CNAC: "Tornados"
The mixed-use facility CNAC (CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama Complex), comprising three spaces, aims to create a new hub for bidirectional communication, transmitting high-quality content across numerous fields. This concept is expressed by the term "Tornados." Tornados, on their periphery, create chaos, drawing in and absorbing everything around them, while at their center, they create a state of concise, refined order known as the "Eye of Tornados." This corresponds to "self-organization" in complex systems science.
CNAC, centered around the CoSTUME NATIONAL flagship store, acknowledges the difficulty of creating and disseminating new culture towards Tokyo's and Japan's uncertain and challenging future. Nevertheless, it challenges itself to create a space for discussing what constitutes the next value, traversing chaos and order like a "Tornado." Isn't this incredibly exciting?
COMMENTS FROM CREATORS
001 Ennio Capasa
Designer, CoSTUME NATIONAL
"This is very important to me. My experiences in Japan, my feelings for Japan, and various stories have come together beautifully. Yes, CoSTUME NATIONAL is back in Japan. And in a very modern form: a complex of boutique, cafe, and gallery. I oversaw the entire project.
The events of 3.11 were symbolic for me and are still ongoing. Therefore, I hope to provide energy to the people of Japan, however small my contribution, and to receive energy in return. Regarding creation, I intend to incorporate technology more and more. It's a fusion of Italian tradition and the future. We also have items exclusive to the Aoyama store. A new shopping experience awaits you here. Please enjoy your time in this space."
002 Patrick Blanc
Contemporary Artist and Botanist, Responsible for the Vertical Garden at CNAC WALL
"I am a researcher at the French National Centre for Scientific Research. I study forests and hold a doctorate in botany. Given my background, I originally came from a scientific field, but gradually I began organizing events and engaging in highly artistic activities.
However, in this vertical garden, the main artist is the plant. The artistic aspect is secondary. This is because I use rare plants from places like Colombia and the Amazon, but they are all arranged based on their ecosystems. What grows below, what grows above – it's all a natural representation of nature as seen in the wild. I simply provide water for the plants (laughs). I developed the wall material myself. It's currently the best. It's made from compacted felt scraps of French polyamide and polyester. It's a synthetic material. This kind of fusion also occurs in nature. Nature itself is art."
003 Ryuji Nakamura
Architect. Responsible for the installation of the CoSTUME NATIONAL 25th Anniversary Archive at CNAC LAB (gallery space).
"Ennio wanted an exhibition that emphasized each garment as a special piece born from encounters with VIPs. Therefore, I conceived of an experience where garments appear and disappear, rather than encountering many at once.
The idea is that garments seen from afar gradually disappear as you approach, and by the time you can see the details, only one remains. This is my first time considering the space for clothing, but I was struck by the natural and beautiful relationship between material and form in Ennio's clothes, so I wanted to create a similar relationship. I utilized the tension created by fixing ribbons at staggered points between the ceiling and floor. Unlike architecture, clothing effectively utilizes such tension, and I applied that concept. While it may appear decorative at first glance, it's a catenary curve, a line of mechanics. I hope people can associate it with various images, such as the forelock of hair or whalebone, rather than just one interpretation."
CoSTUME NATIONAL Aoyama Complex
Tel. 03-4335-7772 (CN Japan Inc)





