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January 15, 2015
Designer Marc Newson Discusses the Birth of "NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA" | NIKE SPORTSWEAR
NIKE SPORTSWEAR
A decade later, a forward-thinking design returns in a limited edition.
Marc Newson on the Birth of "NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA"
In 2004, the "Nike ZVEZDOCHKA" (pronounced Shvedok-ka), a shoe pursuing an unprecedented aesthetic and inspired by space, made a sensational debut. Widely recognized as the work of renowned industrial designer Marc Newson, the Nike ZVEZDOCHKA combined both functionality as footwear and artistic merit. To commemorate its 10th anniversary, five colors of a reissued version will be sold in limited quantities starting December 29 (Monday) at nike.com/nikelab and NikeLab DSM GNZ.
Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)
An unconventional design embracing a completely new aesthetic sensibility.
The Nike ZVEZDOCHKA is composed of combinable parts: an outer cage, an attachable outsole, an inner sleeve, and an insole.
The computer-designed shoe was born from the idea of creating footwear with multiple uses, inspired by astronauts from a functional perspective. The name Nike ZVEZDOCHKA is derived from the name of a Russian dog that rode on Sputnik 10, the first artificial satellite, in 1961.
The Nike ZVEZDOCHKA offers a feel incredibly close to being barefoot, with a flexible and durable material used for the inner sleeve. It covers the entire foot for protection against harsh weather. The heel of the inner insole features Nike Zoom Air. Furthermore, it has an innovative structure that allows it to be used as a shoe by inserting it into a basket with ventilation holes in the outsole.
Marc Newson on "Nike ZVEZDOCHKA"
—How did you come up with the idea for ZVEZDOCHKA?
The idea of a collaborative design with Nike had been developing over several years. Back in 2000, Mark Parker (President and CEO of Nike, Inc.) personally approached me about a collaboration. Before settling on this shoe, we considered what to co-design, such as sunglasses, bags, or other footwear. Around the same time, I was invited by the Russian Federal Space Agency to come to Baikonur (City of Stars) in Russia, where space shuttle launches take place. At that time, activities related to the International Space Station were very active, so I also worked with astronauts involved in the ISS and learned about the nature of working in zero gravity.
At that time, I wanted to create a shoe that would perfectly suit the needs of astronauts working in space. A shoe for various purposes, such as working in space, enjoying leisure time, or engaging in intense physical activity. In other words, it was necessary to create a shoe that functioned in a fundamentally different way, ergonomically. We needed a shoe that was combinable, covered the entire foot, and was suitable for intense movement or working while floating in the crew cabin. This passion led me to want to create a new type of shoe that didn't exist at Nike at the time. What emerged was precisely "ZVEZDOCHKA," something between a shoe and a boot.
—Nike ZVEZDOCHKA employs a completely new manufacturing method for shoes. It overturns conventional thinking, but what is the importance of changing the status quo 180 degrees in design?
As a designer, I believe it's crucial to push boundaries. It's necessary to look towards the future and contemplate what lies ahead. Without that, design itself loses its meaning. For me, design is about constantly pursuing new possibilities using new technologies, processes, and materials. Therefore, it's important to engage in thorough discussions with people from various industries.
—You've said that design is an approach to problem-solving. What problems did you solve with ZVEZDOCHKA ten years ago?
Marc Newson
It was about tackling a completely new challenge for Nike: designing a shoe suitable for the space environment. Without exercise in zero gravity, the body deteriorates. There could have been no more demanding task for Nike than creating a shoe for space. This became the catalyst for starting product development with Nike. Of course, the shoe was intended for use on Earth as well. It's a shoe with combinable parts, easy to put on and take off like a boot. At the time, I don't think there was anything else in the industry that transformed a boot into a shoe like this product.
—Looking back over the past decade, can you say that ZVEZDOCHKA has left its mark on your design history?
Yes, undoubtedly. It has influenced my own designs, both before and after designing ZVEZDOCHKA. I see it as a piece of a puzzle within my overall body of work, including pieces like "Random Pak" and "Voronoi Shelf" expressed at the Gagosian Gallery.
—You mentioned that you design things you want to buy yourself. What did you want to buy that led you to design ZVEZDOCHKA?
Nike ZVEZDOCHKA solved design problems in an innovative way. The result was a unique and cool masterpiece.
—What was the appeal of collaborating with Nike?
The opportunity to work with Mark Parker was particularly appealing. We clicked very well, and it's not often that you get to share interests and dedicate passion with the head of a company to create cool products. That's what we aimed for. Mark has a strong personality, so the collaboration progressed naturally. I always felt relaxed and never under pressure; whether good ideas emerged or not, the work was effortless.
—As a designer, are there any recent Nike innovations that interest you?
It's rare for a footwear manufacturer to achieve such significant evolution. Nike's products are not merely fashion items; they are products filled with industrial design informed by knowledge. From a socio-anthropological perspective, it's fascinating that sneakers have become symbols of personal expression.
—How do you think Nike ZVEZDOCHKA will influence your designs in the future?
Broadly speaking, the influence of Nike ZVEZDOCHKA, as it has been, is the importance of approaching design challenges with a changed perspective. It's crucial that people genuinely accept this shoe as a product, both physically and emotionally.
—What possibilities does customization offer in design?
It depends on the degree of customization. The more customization possible, the better. In terms of bridging existing designs with conceptual ones, customization is a very interesting approach.
Mark Parker (President and CEO of Nike, Inc.) on Nike ZVEZDOCHKA
—What was it like collaborating with Marc Newson? How do you think you achieved synergy?
I knew Marc before working on the ZVEZDOCHKA project, so I understood his way of thinking. His approach to problem-solving in design had common ground with Nike's philosophy, so there was no discomfort in proceeding with the work. As we began discussing the project, we focused on the conventional shoe manufacturing process, something no one had considered. This allowed us to explore new possibilities and realize that this project shouldn't be limited to just creating a new shoe.
—Do you think working on ZVEZDOCHKA has changed Nike's approach to collaboration?
Mark Parker
At Nike, we have collaborated with over 650 designers, fostering a creative culture that resonates with everyone. However, embracing external influences has significant benefits and, I believe, allows us to reach the future with even greater speed.
In adopting this approach, we have worked with numerous creators from the art, film, and music industries over the years. These connections have become a major driving force, putting us in an advantageous position. Nike is rooted in a spirit of constant invention. This means we spare no effort in creating what has never existed before. We must not only create new products but also continuously improve them.
The answer to your question is "Yes." Collaborating with a designer as accomplished as Marc was incredibly inspiring. Through this joint effort, a new pursuit of beauty was ignited. More importantly, it was significant that we were able to open doors to possibilities we had never imagined.
—NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA employs a completely new manufacturing method for shoes. It overturns conventional thinking, but what is the importance of changing the status quo 180 degrees in design?
There are times when it's necessary to overturn conventional thinking and create a new model. This is to bring about meaningful change. It would have been impossible to create "NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA" using the traditional cut-and-sew manufacturing methods for shoes. However, I never imagined that the initial idea could evolve into the design we have today. It all comes down to asking the right questions, in the right way, at the right time.
I believe balance is always important in everything. You don't need to start from scratch to emotionally connect with a product you've designed. Breaking new ground is important, but so is pursuing true art by striving to create something better than before.
—Over the past decade, how has ZVEZDOCHKA directly or indirectly influenced Nike's design?
The journey of designing ZVEZDOCHKA has had a significant impact on our design and innovation teams, particularly in product creation.
In the long run, I believe ZVEZDOCHKA was a crucial step in advancing what we call the manufacturing revolution. Projects like ZVEZDOCHKA paved the way for groundbreaking products such as "NIKE FLYKNIT." It also changed our perception of new tools like 3D printers.
Crucially, ZVEZDOCHKA has influenced our thinking on environmental considerations, which are now paramount in design. Minimizing environmental impact while removing business constraints has become an integral part of our design process.
—How do you think NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA will influence Nike's designs in the future?
The concept behind NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA, with its potential for customization, combinable parts, environmental consideration, and manufacturing, makes the future exciting.
Design arises from iterative work. One idea leads to another. Looking ahead, the future possibilities brought about by customization, combinations, and modular parts are exhilarating to imagine. Of course, the influence of NIKE ZVEZDOCHKA will continue regarding sustainable design. It has removed constraints that stood in the way of an environmentally friendly future. Eliminating these constraints is the goal we aim for.
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