FASHION /
MEN
March 4, 2015
An Interview with Gaziano & Girling, Masters of British Shoemaking
Interview with GAZIANO&GIRLING
Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling of the new shoe brand GAZIANO&GIRLING visited Japan. As a classic shoe brand, arguably the finest among current ready-to-wear offerings, we explore how much further they will refine their sophisticated creations.
Text by OPENERSphoto by Jamandfix
Bridging Bespoke and Ready-to-Wear
—You both had distinguished careers at renowned brands like John Lobb London, George Cleverley, and Edward Green. What prompted your decision to go independent?
While it was a privilege to work for so many esteemed houses, we wanted to create something truly excellent with our own hands, free from the constraints of working solely for a company. Our aim was to realize a form that harmoniously blends bespoke and ready-to-wear.
Traditionally, bespoke and ready-to-wear shoes are associated with different locations and manufacturers – bespoke in London, ready-to-wear in Northampton – with little overlap in techniques or craftsmen. The relationship between the two is complex. However, as a novel idea, we decided to incorporate techniques and specifications unique to bespoke shoemaking into our ready-to-wear line, striking a balance with market prices to build our business.
We wanted to break down the exclusive world where the excellence of bespoke is appreciated by only a select few, and allow more people to experience the magnificence of bespoke shoes in stores. To achieve this, we have created ready-to-wear shoes with a level of craftsmanship that reflects this aspiration. Currently, we are focused on improving our systems to meet the demand.
Infusing Bespoke Craftsmanship into Ready-to-Wear
—These are very contemporary and modern shoes for British footwear. When designing, do you consider the current market?
We don't consciously think about the market in an intellectual sense. It would be dishonest to say we ignore it entirely, but perhaps because we create based on instinct and feel, they come across as contemporary. We are deeply pleased that the shoes we create, believing them to be truly excellent, are supported by our customers.
Customers wouldn't be satisfied if we simply produced classic shoes for 20 years. We intend to continue proposing new directions.
—You are in Japan for a bespoke order event. What are your impressions of Japanese customers?
Indeed, many customers are knowledgeable about quality and fine details. This is crucial, as customer demands drive our growth. Globally, making bespoke shoes for Japanese clients is quite straightforward. This is because Japanese customers are very clear about what they want. Americans, for instance, don't specify what they want; they simply ask for shoes that suit them.
—Approximately how many bespoke orders do you receive annually?
Around 100 pairs. While this may seem small, we believe it's necessary to maintain our quality standards.
—What is the delivery time for bespoke orders?
It takes approximately eight months. About four months for the initial fitting and another four months for the final fitting.
We are confident that the wait is absolutely worthwhile.
The ready-to-wear line achieves steady evolution while retaining the essence of bespoke design. Among British shoemakers, these are shoes that combine high quality, born from reliable techniques passed down through tradition, with a unique accent. It is no exaggeration to call them future heirlooms.
The second part features a conversation with Kentaro Matsuo, Editor-in-Chief of Men's EX, one of the many captivated by their charm.
GAZIANO&GIRLING
A shoe brand founded in 2006 by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling.
Tony Gaziano, who excelled as a shoe designer and model maker at Cheaney and Jeffery-West before honing his skills at Edward Green, and Dean Girling, who worked as a bespoke outworker for John Lobb London, George Cleverley, and Edward Green.
GAZIANO&GIRLING began with a single phone call from Girling to Gaziano.
Fontainebleau
Tel. 03-5459-0933
http://www.fontainebleau.jp/