This series has featured interviews with various people of interest to Motofumi "POGGY" Kogi. This time, we shift the focus slightly, with OPENERS Director Hiroyuki Matsumoto delving deeper into POGGY as an individual. We hope readers will gain insight into the perspectives and sensibilities POGGY applies when selecting items and how these inform his buying and direction, through the lens of his personal collection. For this installment, POGGY has selected 10 pairs of shoes from his extensive collection that hold particular significance for him.

POGGYI bought these "SIDE GUSSET WINGTIP" shoes from BARKER BLACK quite some time ago. The last is slender, so they pair well with classic suits, but I particularly like how they create a style that's more than just classic. I own about three other pairs of Barker Black shoes. My feet are on the wider side, but these models are comfortable for me to wear.

Hiroyuki Matsumoto (hereinafter, Matsumoto)These look sharp from a design perspective. Barker Black shoes are quite unique, aren't they? They take classic styles and weave in elements like side-goring or distinctive medallion placements, almost like a black joke. It's a sense of humor akin to Monty Python, perhaps.

POGGYCompared to established bespoke brands, their designs are bolder, and many possess a sense of humor. Indeed, normally this model would be in brown, wouldn't it?

MatsumotoOr perhaps a stylish burgundy. When did you start wearing Barker Black?

POGGYIn 2006, while at UNITED ARROWS (hereinafter, UA), I launched a select shop called Liquor,woman&tears (hereinafter, Liquor) through an internal venture system, and we were the first in Japan to carry Barker Black. The brand itself was founded in 2005.

MatsumotoI see. Do these brands help bring out your signature style?

POGGYYes. You know how some people order katsudon at a soba restaurant? I have that kind of tendency.

Matsumoto(Laughs)

POGGYFor example, with Alden, I have a habit of buying models that aren't the standard ones.

MatsumotoSo, even if you understand the standard models, you buy something else to solidify your own style? Perhaps you don't own many of the truly standard items?

POGGYThat's right. I do buy standard items, but I tend to reach for the non-standard ones. I envy people who can pull off the classics.

MatsumotoAfter your time at Liquor and UNITED ARROWS & SONS (hereinafter, SONS), I imagine you've arrived at your current style and color palette. Do you ever incorporate classics into that?

POGGYYes, I do. Perhaps as a single accent, with shoes for example. Take luxury streetwear, for instance. Many people wear head-to-toe high fashion brands paired with cutting-edge sneakers. That doesn't suit me.

MatsumotoThat's likely due to your background in select shops, mixing and incorporating various elements.

POGGYI think so. I feel I'm constantly pursuing items that have quality and a story, along with a playful spirit. That wasn't as common before the early 2000s. For example, with ALPHA's MA-1, there were only traditional silhouettes. But around the mid-2000s, select shops started commissioning slimmer versions.

MatsumotoWhat was being explored back then has become commonplace now.

POGGYIt's the same with Barker Black. They use traditional Northampton shoe factories in England, yet they might make the medallions skull-shaped, or they'd create classic models when those weren't particularly valued. I find that aspect interesting and appealing.

MatsumotoThe designers are brothers, aren't they?

POGGYYes. Kirk Miller worked at Thom Browne before founding Barker Black, and Derrick Miller has experience at RALPH LAUREN. Both have a deep understanding of American Trad. But they also have a playful side. Like you, Matsumoto-san, I'm drawn to people like that. Those who have studied Trad often have a certain rigidity, a 'this is how it must be' attitude. While it's become much more casual now, back in 2005 when I first went to Pitti, there was still a palpable tension in the Classico Italia section. They put up walls and wouldn't talk to me at all. It took many visits, and them realizing I was a genuine fashion enthusiast, before they finally opened up.

MatsumotoThat might be the case in any field. Once you become friends, they welcome you into the family.

POGGYExactly. But separate from that, I disliked the attitude of old-fashioned clothing stores that implied 'you're not ready for this yet.'

MatsumotoThat was certainly common. Especially at traditional select shops in the provinces, many were quite unapproachable.

POGGYAround 2005-2006, Thom Browne launched BLACK FLEECE BY Brooks Brothers, the lifestyle magazine 'Free&Easy' was being re-imported to America, and J Crew opened a liquor store. It was a time when Americans began to re-evaluate Ivy and heritage styles. Americans started reading 'TAKE IVY' as well.

MatsumotoVAN created 'Take Ivy,' after all.

POGGYExactly! Realizing this anew, I approached VAN Jacket and requested a special order, and we produced items like the swing top together. Later, I also met Kensuke Ishizu's eldest son, Shosuke, and his grandson, Rui. Speaking of which, something VAN Jacket said about Trad has stayed with me.

MatsumotoWhat was that?

POGGYThey said that Trad is a line, while Classic is a point. Even the finest things, if they end with a single era, remain just a point, a Classic. The desire of older generations to 'pass things on to the younger generation' or the younger generation's wish to 'learn about the good old things' connects these points to form a line. That line, they explained, is Trad. The way that line is drawn can change with the times, and perhaps the 'you're not welcome here' attitude I always reacted against could be seen as cool in its own way. But I feel it closes off the potential for that line to be drawn.

MatsumotoIt's possible they are selective about who draws the line, but I see your point.

POGGYNowadays, with UNIQLO offering high quality, I don't think it's an era for closing doors. For me, perhaps that's reflected in how I choose my items. Looking back at my closet this time, I realized that.

MatsumotoI see. And when did you purchase this one?

POGGYAround 2010. Among the shoes I own, this might be the only relatively conventional type (laughs). When I was at Liquor, I learned that VAN had a special order with REGAL, so I proposed to Liquor that we do something with Regal as well, leading to a special order for saddle shoes in 2008.

MatsumotoThat's right.

POGGYThen, I had been persistently asking for the reissue of the VAN REGAL collaboration model released in 1964. Once it was decided, UA also became a partial retailer. I was thrilled that they reissued the four original models: wingtip, chukka, loafer, and plain-toe.

MatsumotoThat's quite a few models. Did VAN have the original last (wooden mold)?

POGGYRegal might have had it, but I'll check (laughs). At the time, Regal treated us very well, and in return, we introduced them to brands like nonnative, PHENOMENON, and GLAD HAND. Many Japanese brands back then lacked the background for shoemaking and were struggling. That's probably why many brands collaborated with Regal at the time.

MatsumotoPerhaps there was a respect for Japanese brands?

POGGYMaybe. And Regal has a history, having also made military footwear.

MatsumotoLike 'Take Ivy,' everyone was surprised that Japan had created these things, weren't they?

POGGYYes. After Japan lost the war, our predecessors worked tirelessly to catch up and surpass America, honing their skills and conducting research to build these things. It's truly remarkable. They started from nothing, didn't they?

MatsumotoIndeed. With denim, for example, they would take the fabric, unravel the threads completely, and meticulously research the yarn thickness and weight to determine the ounces. Then they'd actually weave the raw fabric and test both product dyeing and yarn dyeing. They deconstructed it to such an extent. It's incredible.

POGGYSpeaking of denim, it was like the standard items that Japanese people had established over a long time, such as LEVI'S 501s, were re-imported to America in the early 2000s. At the time, it was often said that 'Americans rediscovered American casual.'

MatsumotoPerhaps Regal, like denim, was part of that movement.

POGGYFrom being just a factory and a manufacturer, perhaps they forged an identity through Ivy.

POGGYAround the time of the Lehman Shock in 2008, when H&M and FOREVER 21 opened along Meiji Dori in Harajuku, foot traffic beyond that area declined. UA Harajuku Main Store was no exception, and the company as a whole was considering how to respond. Liquor had a loyal following, but the main store's customer numbers were also dropping, making it unsustainable. Sadly, it had to close. At that point, I proposed a plan to revitalize the UA Harajuku Main Store, leading to the launch of SONS in 2010.

MatsumotoWhat was the thinking behind the name "& SONS"?

POGGYMany old British companies have names like "○○ & Sons." It reflects our desire to pass on the dress style that UA has cultivated to the next generation. Liquor's theme was hip-hop fashion, so my focus tended to be on flashy items or things that musicians would wear, and I neglected the fundamentals. Chairman Osamu Shigematsu often says there's a martial arts teaching called "Shu-Ha-Ri." First, you learn the form by following your master's teachings, then you express your individuality and gradually deviate from the master's teachings. Without the form, you're just formless, but having the form allows you to break from it. I learned this and wanted to re-study the basics from scratch. I joined UA's dress team and went to Pitti during that period. That's when I bought and wore shoes from JOHN LOBB, Church's, and Alden.

MatsumotoYou started SONS and studied dress style. Among the lineup you brought today, this Church's is quite a classic model. What do you like about it?

POGGYI also liked Alden's 990 model and wore it often, pairing it with slightly rugged styles like The Stylist Japan's suits. This plain-toe, however, feels a bit more modern. I like that the leather isn't too stiff. It has a refined feel.

MatsumotoThe combination of leather and the welt stitching is excellent. It creates a slightly charming look, wouldn't you say? They're versatile shoes that go with any style. They're particularly popular among British shoes.

POGGYYes. However, when I was working at Liquor, I only knew about robust shoes like Barker Black.

MatsumotoBarker isn't quite the same as Church's, not exactly a "luxury shoe."

POGGYI recall that when Church's became part of the PRADA group, they became more refined and urban. I was captivated by the modernity of this "Shannon." British shoes generally have a reputation for being stiff, but those made with high-quality leather, like John Lobb's, conform well to the foot and become more supple with each wear.

MatsumotoJohn Lobb is in a class of its own, isn't it?

POGGYThey are truly special. When I visit London, I always stop by the store on St. James's Street. You can see the traditional lasts, and you feel an immense sense of history. I also own the "William" from John Lobb, but today I wanted to bring out my only pair of brown shoes.

MatsumotoDo you own mostly black shoes?

POGGYYes. When I looked through my shoe closet, about 80% were black (laughs). I like these because they're a traditional straight-tip. John Lobb shoes often have a slender toe box, giving them a modern impression, don't they? And it's not often you see this color in suede.

MatsumotoIndeed. The medallion is unusual, isn't it? The side paneling is also interesting. Made with two pieces of leather~. It's a unique design, I like it.

POGGYWhen I used to go to Pitti, I often saw Italian gentlemen in their 60s and 70s wearing simple suits. They'd pair LIVERANO suits with authentic suede models from Church's, and they looked incredibly stylish. Influenced by them, I wanted suede shoes and bought these John Lobb's. I think I bought them on sale. Perhaps they were left because the color is difficult?

MatsumotoThe texture of the suede and the design are both excellent. It showcases John Lobb's ultimate quality.

POGGYNIGO® loves suits and has always wanted to collaborate on suits with UA. In 2010, at the request of Shigematsu-san, I launched the collaboration label Mr. BATHING APE® by UNITED ARROWS with NIGO®, who was still with A BATHING APE®. After a hiatus, we started a new project in 2014 called NIGOLD® by UNITED ARROWS. During the collaboration where we made shoes with George Cleverley, I visited England several times for meetings. The founder, George Glasgow, Sr., personally showed us the workshop and provided service. He mentioned, 'Mr. Kurino and Shigematsu-san used to buy a lot from BEAMS back in the day,' and we built a good relationship. His son, CEO George Glasgow, Jr., lives in Los Angeles and is a fun-loving, spirited person, so we quickly became friends. He then gifted me these velvet slippers.

MatsumotoAh, these are them.

POGGYHe asked me to send my logo, so I sent him the data of the logo drawn by SKATETHING, and he sent me these.

MatsumotoIt must be wonderful to have your own embroidery on your shoes!

POGGYYes. British slipper shoes are considered room shoes, but the signature chisel toe of Cleverley is incorporated, which I find remarkable. These are particularly special to me as they represent the fusion of the dress style from the select shops I grew up with and my own history, which is rooted in street culture.

MatsumotoDid you like Cleverley from the start?

POGGYNIGO® liked them, so it started when we decided to collaborate for NIGOLD®. Most of the shoes NIGO® owns are likely Cleverley and John Lobb.

MatsumotoThese are incredibly dressy shoes, yet they're so wild. The one-point decorative embroidery adds a fantastic touch. The beauty of the piping on the velvet fabric, combined with this embroidery design, creates a pleasing mismatch. The embroidery itself is skillfully done, which makes it work. You can feel the craftsmanship. They must be difficult to wear. They're made for wearing on carpets, aren't they?

POGGYI wear them carefully for special occasions (laughs).The shoes in the movie 'Kingsman' are Cleverley.For the actual filming, George Sr. measured the cast.He also made a cameo appearance in 'Phantom Thread'.

MatsumotoReally!

POGGYI think his son, George Jr.'s, enthusiastic personality is being well passed down to the next generation. Once, when he was visiting Japan, I had the chance to go to a rather glamorous establishment with him, and he was ecstatic, exclaiming, 'What is this place! It's like a dream!'

Matsumoto(Laughs heartily)

POGGYWhen you were a middle schooler or child, didn't you ever want to wear your father's clothes? I used to secretly borrow and wear my father's leather shoes, which weren't particularly stylish. They were Regal.

MatsumotoMmm-hmm. I remember wanting to appear older.

POGGYThen, during VAN's heyday in the mid-60s, the Miyuki tribe, dressed in Ivy League style, gathered in Ginza, leading to complaints and crackdowns. Although Ivy League fashion was originally for elites, it somehow became distorted and associated with delinquents. When I was in elementary school, for some reason, the local delinquents wore VAN. When I bought and wore a VAN swing top in sixth grade, I was confronted and had it stolen (laughs).

Matsumoto(Laughs)

POGGYThey'd say, 'Hey, aren't you wearing something nice?' (laughs). Despite the resentment, VAN and Regal became brands with special meaning for me. Also, the first shoes I bought when I started paying attention to fashion were Dr. Martens. I think I was in high school. I bought the Chelsea boots, then the 8-eyelets. Dr. Martens, like Birkenstocks, have an image of being shoes for people with foot problems, don't they?

MatsumotoYes. They were the first shoes to feature an air-cushioned sole, developed by Dr. Klaus Märtens of Germany.

POGGYThen, in the 70s and 80s, punk musicians wore them, infusing them with music culture. Of course, their quality has ensured they remain popular today.

MatsumotoWhat about this model?

POGGYThis is from the collaboration we did with SONS. I went to the Dr. Martens office, and one of the many samples caught my eye. I believe it was a model from the 90s. When I asked, they said they planned to reissue it, so I requested if SONS could also collaborate. I was very happy to be able to collaborate with a brand I'd loved for so long.

MatsumotoWhat did you change on this?

POGGYThe sample was quite different from this. We changed the leather to matte leather calf, altered the stitching, and made various other modifications. We also made them in green, which was liked by an American rapper named Tyler, The Creator, who wore them.

MatsumotoFor Dr. Martens, the finish on these is quite refined. Elegant, even.

POGGYYes. When I was in high school, I was in a band, and because I had seniors and friends who were knowledgeable about rockabilly and fashion, I often wore GEORGE COX and Dr. Martens.

MatsumotoHow were they back then? The old lace-up 8-eyelets and 10-eyelets were quite stiff, weren't they?

POGGYBack then, we deliberately scuffed them up. I'd color the yellow stitching black with a marker, or paint them with actual paint to modify them.

MatsumotoBrand new Martens looked uncool back then. But you didn't know their history at the time, did you?

POGGYNo. I associated them with kids who frequented live music venues, so I wore them as a fashion statement.

MatsumotoSo you started wearing them casually, and then learned about their history through your work?

POGGYYes. And then I realized they were truly good shoes.

MatsumotoThe air cushioning is quite well-engineered. Even the heel width is unusual. You've kept these in good condition. Haven't worn them much?

POGGYActually, they're quite comfortable, so I wear them quite a bit. Perhaps it's the quality of the leather. Leather shoes have distinct characteristics based on their country of origin and style. Thinking about it, I realized I don't own many Italian leather shoes.

MatsumotoWhy is that?

POGGYPerhaps Italian designs are too stylized for me. My own coordination can be quite elaborate (laughs), so I feel it might be too much.

MatsumotoEven so, what about these MANOLO BLAHNIKs?

POGGYThe store opened in Omotesando last year, didn't it? I popped in and was surprised to find shoes with a surprisingly authentic shape. Until then, I only associated Manolo Blahnik with women's shoes. But when I researched it, I was shocked to learn that David Hockney also wore them. Shortly after, I visited the store in Piccadilly, London, and bought these. They didn't have my size at the Omotesando store.

MatsumotoYou don't own many Italian shoes, yet these are Made in Italy. The brand is British, and the designer himself is Spanish.

POGGYI think British people have a mindset of 'we shouldn't break this any further.' Manolo's shoes seem to strike that balance perfectly.

MatsumotoStill, such a vibrant color.

POGGYI like pink. I love the color palette of pink and orange, like the poster for the surfing film 'The Endless Summer.' I even created the SONS logo with that image in mind. At the Manolo store, I also bought loafers in a similar color, but I wear these straight-tips more often because they fit my feet better.

MatsumotoThe medallion detail is nice too. At first glance, it looks orthodox, but they've paired it with a slender last and a single sole. The construction is Goodyear welted, isn't it?

POGGYYes. In Italy, the welt would typically be more pronounced, wouldn't it?

MatsumotoThe balance is exquisite.

POGGYI like the fashion of Black people. They have a great sense of color. I feel that people in the dress section of select shops used to use more color, but now basic colors are predominant. When you visit a select shop run by Anderson & Sheppard in England, they offer about 10 color variations for a single cashmere knit. That sense of abundance is stylish. I felt the same sense of abundance with Manolo.

MatsumotoJoe Casely-Hayford is similar, isn't he? He also creates suits with exquisite color combinations. It feels luxurious, doesn't it? A reflection of inner richness.

POGGYAt SONS, we try to incorporate colorful items, but we often end up with navy, black, and beige. However, I don't want to forget that fashion needs playfulness and dreams.

MatsumotoPerhaps Manolo is the shoe with a balanced design for you, considering your perspective of wearing them yourself and your eye as a buyer.

POGGYIt might feel feminine. Like buying something that makes you excited. That used to happen often, didn't it?

MatsumotoVery much so! That feeling of buying something even if it might not suit you, that sense of challenge... what is that? Especially for those in the fashion industry, perhaps they seek a new, different self and are constantly looking for change.

POGGYYes. I've been wearing sneakers a lot lately. They're comfortable, so I tend to rely on them. But I'm reminded of the importance of maintaining the sense of formality that comes with wearing leather shoes.

MatsumotoLeather shoes are good because they help you maintain good posture.

POGGYDuring this pandemic, as I've been staying home more, I've realized how easily one can become sloppy. But precisely because of these times, I feel it's important to dress up, even at home. There's a story about Genbei Yamaguchi, who is close with Shigematsu-san...

MatsumotoGenbei of Konndaya Genbei in Kyoto?

POGGYYes. Genbei-san spoke to me about "Hare and Ke." "Hare" refers to the "hare" in formal attire, meaning festive, lively, special occasions, like weddings or Shichi-Go-San celebrations – in other words, the extraordinary. In contrast, "Ke" refers to the ordinary, everyday things like waking up, eating, going to work... He explained that a life filled only with "Ke" can lead to a withered spirit, becoming "Kegare" (impurity or defilement). It was fascinating to hear that humans need to wear formal attire occasionally, otherwise, they become impure. I learned this from him.

MatsumotoThat's a wonderful story.

POGGYYes. In that sense, I felt compelled to wear leather shoes. Especially in times like these.

MatsumotoSo, like these magenta Manolos, you cherish styles that excite you. Conversely, do you have "Ke" clothes for when you're at home?

POGGYLately, I've been wearing recovery wear with photoelectric properties.

MatsumotoDoes it improve circulation?

POGGYI do feel better in them. I like the GOLDWIN sweatshirts; they're comfortable. But when I'm staying home, I sometimes end up wearing them all day...

MatsumotoI understand. The balance between "Hare" and "Ke" is important.

POGGYFor my "Hare" days, these are the shoes: COLE HAAN x NIKE x Tom Sachs wingtip shoes.

MatsumotoAre these from when Cole Haan was still part of the Nike group?

POGGYYes. They appeared during the "SPACE PROGRAM: MARS" exhibition held by Nike and my favorite New York-based artist, Tom Sachs, in 2012. These dress shoes were quite rare and produced in limited quantities.

MatsumotoHow did you manage to get them!

POGGYI had been searching for them for a long time. A friend overseas had a pair, and I managed to acquire them. They incorporate features from both Cole Haan and Nike. The outsole uses Nike's early signature technology, the "Waffle sole," there's a Swoosh on the side, and a tab at the heel for easy removal.

MatsumotoWow. The Nike tag sewn onto the tongue is a nice touch.

POGGYTrue to Tom Sachs, whose themes are always NASA and space, the shoelaces were made from a material developed by NASA. However, they tore, so I replaced them.

MatsumotoThe fusion of classic and new elements is well-executed, making them modern.

POGGYIt's exquisitely done without being overdone. Men get excited when their favorite culture is incorporated, don't they? In that sense, these are among the finest leather shoes. They're one of my treasured pairs, worn only for very special occasions.

MatsumotoWhat about these shoes?

POGGYThe year before last, the London-based skate brand PALACE SKATEBOARDS collaborated with POLO RALPH LAUREN, which caused quite a stir. These are from that collection. It's the era where streetwear, while aiming for high fashion, playfully parodied it, leading to collaborations between luxury and street brands. Since Ralph Lauren was involved in this Palace and Polo collaboration, many items had a traditional leaning. However, I was particularly drawn to these shoes and bought them. When I first started SONS, I was pursuing the idea of connecting classic brands with street-originated ones. For example, I thought it would be interesting if Stüssy collaborated with INCOTEX. These shoes embody that very concept.

MatsumotoAnd they're opera pumps, no less. It's amazing how they don't immediately scream 'skate shoes.'

POGGYExactly. Ultimately, skateboarding, like graffiti, is about pursuing one's own style. So, in that sense, the ideology might be very close to that of people who focus on dress wear. Also, I admire street icons like Malcolm McLaren and Mark Gonzales who base their style on Trad. While Trad looks cool on young people, it gains depth as one ages, doesn't it?

MatsumotoMmm-hmm. Gonzales, as he's gotten older, has adopted a more traditional style for skating.

POGGYWith that image in mind, I enjoy pairing opera pumps like these with casual outfits.

MatsumotoAnd the upper part is knit!

POGGYYes. Even with a classic tuxedo, wearing these completely changes the image, which is fascinating.

MatsumotoThey might look great paired with a velvet tuxedo in green, yellow, or a bright navy. That kind of unexpected twist is appealing. When you shop for yourself, do you ever consider it from a buyer's perspective? Do you select items you'd want to sell in the store?

POGGYI believe what I like and what sells are different. I often choose items that are difficult to style. I think Tomoki Yuasa is similar. My impression is that Yuasa-san prefers challenging pieces. Things that seem difficult to wear, but that makes you want to wear them. I might be similar in that regard.

MatsumotoThe last pair are loafers.

POGGYThis is from a unisex shoe collection by stylist Kozue Anzai and Tricker's, which was released exclusively at SONS and UA Harajuku Main Store at the end of last year. Around last summer, Anzai-san approached me, saying, 'I'm collaborating with Tricker's, is there anything UA can do?' Around that time, we were discussing how interesting it would be to have Paraboot's "Michael" in pink at SONS. We wanted to create authentic shoes, but also something unique for SONS.

MatsumotoPink Michaels, that sounds interesting.

POGGYUnfortunately, that didn't come to fruition, so I felt it was a good timing to receive the offer for Tricker's. Working with Anzai-san, we created three models in total: these loafers, side-gore boots, and wingtip shoes.

MatsumotoThe action painting provides a nice accent.

POGGYIt's a classic loafer called "James." With permission from the main company, MSDT, a Japanese paint artist, meticulously applied the paint by hand. I originally wanted to do it on calf leather, but the paint would have come off, so we used suede.

MatsumotoSince it's handmade by an artisan, each pair has a unique finish. That sense of exclusivity is wonderful.

POGGYThere's a certain coolness to artists who show up at parties covered in paint, isn't there? We wanted to express that. The way the paint is applied creates different expressions, which is interesting. The fluorescent colors add a modern touch. And I'm happy we were able to attempt something so challenging with Tricker's, a brand with such a long history in England.

MatsumotoDid you like Tricker's from the beginning?

POGGYYes, I've worn quite a few of their models.

MatsumotoWhat do you appreciate about Tricker's?

POGGYThe last that suits a rugged casual style, and the welt construction. I like wearing these loafers with Carhartt double-knee work pants.

MatsumotoI think Tricker's has a duality. They make shoes suitable for rugged workwear, but also beautiful dress shoes. Some models feature double soles, and in a way, their material selection is similar to John Lobb's. The construction is robust, yet elegant.

POGGYThe traditional customer service at their Jermyn Street store, where they tie your shoelaces for you, is also very cool. Nowadays, I wear these loafers and a pair of their authentic straight-tip models. I like those because they're just on the edge of being uncool (laughs).

MatsumotoAre Tricker's your most numerous leather shoes?

POGGYPerhaps Dr. Martens or Clarks are the most numerous. For dress shoes, I suppose Tricker's are the most frequent.

MatsumotoAnd by brand?

POGGYGiven the number of collaborations we did back then, probably Regal. Dr. Martens are also numerous.

MatsumotoListening to you, it seems you have a fondness for British shoes.

POGGYNow that you mention it, yes, that seems to be the case.

MatsumotoLike Shigematsu-san's point about form, it's as if the foundation and the flow of that background have allowed your own evolved style to take shape.

POGGYDuring men's fashion week, you start at Pitti, move to Milan, and then go to Paris. When I'm in Pitti and Milan, I feel like wearing a suit. But if I go to Paris dressed like that, I feel strangely embarrassed (laughs). Paris values a kind of effortless cool, doesn't it? So, when I stop in London on the way to Paris, I get incredibly energized. In East London, you have cutting-edge street culture like Palace, but also the classic culture of Jermyn Street and Savile Row remains.

MatsumotoThe coexistence of classic and street is the key point, isn't it?

POGGYYes. I think America has that too, but perhaps England is crazier in a way. Gentlemen who are also eccentric are common among British people (laughs). I enjoy incorporating that British sensibility into my own style.