STUDIOUS | Masato Tani x Daisuke Obana of N.HOOLYWOOD: A Conversation (Part 2)
STUDIOUS
Masato Tani, CEO of STUDIOUS x Daisuke Obana of N.HOOLYWOOD (2)
Dreams Across Tokyo, NY, and Asia
Daisuke Obana, designer of "N.HOOLYWOOD," visits the STUDIOUS Jinnan store. The conversation with STUDIOUS CEO Masato Tani, held in a tea house designed by architect Makoto Tanijiri, begins with talk of "N.HOOLYWOOD COMPILE," featured at the STUDIOUS Jinnan store, and gradually expands to New York, Paris, and Asia.
Masato Tani x Daisuke Obana of STUDIOUS (1) here
Text by Makoto KAJII (OPENERS)Photographs by Simpei SUZUKI
New York: A City That Evokes the Relationship Between Fashion and Lifestyle
Masato TaniMr. Obana, you present your collections in New York twice a year. What does New York mean to you?
Daisuke ObanaFirstly, I feel that while Japanese fashion buyers visit often, they aren't going to New York to buy, but rather to buy brands that are already sold in New York. I wonder if we're starting to forget the inherent appeal and value of American casual wear.
TaniI see.
ObanaDuring New York Fashion Week, I walk about 25 kilometers every day. What I feel is that while people in Tokyo who are interested in fashion can recognize the brands they're wearing, New Yorkers are enjoying "lifestyle" itself. I thought, "This is a city that's ahead."
Of course, at some point in life, focusing solely on clothes and wearing your favorite items to your heart's content is a path that any fashion enthusiast will tread. However, it's difficult for Japanese people to truly integrate that into their daily lives. In New York too, only those with a certain level of affluence truly enjoy their lifestyle.
TaniLooking at your career and collections, Mr. Obana, it seems you're constantly pursuing the essence of American casual wear. You also presented collections in Paris for a time, didn't you?
ObanaActually, I'm not very fond of Paris. Paris has historical architecture everywhere, and the people watching the shows lack a certain realism. It's a city where the fashion business can still thrive, though. Mr. Tani, do you often watch fashion shows?
TaniOf course, I watch them for work, but honestly, they don't feel very real. Sometimes I wonder about the role of a fashion show.
The Urgency of Shows, Consumable Collections
ObanaI believe the recent changes in fashion shows are influenced by the development of social media like Twitter and Facebook. In the era before the internet, collections were disclosed only to a select few, such as fashion journalists and buyers, and there was a clear timetable where the collection's theme, clothes, and trends would mature over six months before being presented.
TaniThat's right.
ObanaBrands born around the year 2000, including N.Hollywood, were called "millennium brands." When we were still holding shows in Tokyo, there were wonderful magazine editors who appreciated our collections and featured them, establishing a proper relationship. Back then, everyone in the audience watched the shows with full attention.
But now, even before the show begins, bloggers are revealing everything on social media. While I think that's open-minded and good in a way, I also worry that if we're not careful, it could all disappear.
TaniThat's a frightening thought.
ObanaCompared to the authoritarianism of Paris, I can still understand it, but in this situation, I think many designers currently showing collections don't know how to make a show work anymore.
TaniIt's a change of the times. But it's also true that brands that have lasted and remained at the forefront are adapting flexibly. How do you feel about Tokyo as a place for creating things, Mr. Obana?
ObanaI think it's fine for my base to be in Tokyo. Going abroad is necessary to avoid stagnation, and there are hints to be found in not getting too accustomed to the foreign atmosphere.
TaniWhat about New York, which you visit twice a year?
ObanaVisiting every six months, I find that even seemingly unchanged landscapes are subtly shifting, and catching those changes and integrating them within myself is stimulating. Encounters with people are also important.
Creating What Has Never Been Seen Before
ObanaThe STUDIOUS Jinnan store has had a successful start. What's the next step?
TaniThis store represents the culmination of STUDIOUS's early days and also serves as a showroom for our international approach. Therefore, we aim to increase our overseas clientele. Regarding international expansion, over the past two years, I've visited Taiwan, Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, Bangkok, Singapore, and Seoul, among others. However, the extent to which a TOKYO brand can succeed abroad remains unknown. We are carefully crafting our strategy to avoid any missteps.
ObanaI'd be interested to see how this STUDIOUS Jinnan store evolves.
TaniThank you. We're also considering the interesting possibility of developing it into a new type of hybrid department store, while maintaining its identity as a select shop.
ObanaWith your passion, scale, and strategy, STUDIOUS, I want you to keep creating things we've never seen before. Although I have a longer career, I don't want to give you advice (laughs).
TaniWhy is that? (laughs)
ObanaI've reached this point through my own failures, and I don't want you to follow the same path by giving you strategic advice. I want you to forge your own way.
TaniI'm easily influenced too (laughs). But now that I'm 30, I truly feel that experience is invaluable.
ObanaI look forward to it.
TaniFor me personally, N.Hollywood is a brand whose "JK02" from the Compile line, upon hearing about its release from you, Mr. Obana, I felt was truly "clothing I want to wear for a lifetime." As STUDIOUS, we also position it as a brand that should be a core part of our group. I look forward to our continued collaboration.
STUDIOUS Jinnan Store
1-5-19 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-6277-5582
Business Hours | 12:00 - 20:00
Brands
N.HOOLYWOOD, White Mountaineering, ATTACHMENT, KAZUYUKI KUMAGAI, ato, soe, Scye, 08sircus, MofM(manofmoods)
MIHARAYASUHIRO, foot the coacher, Y-3, ORPHIC, JAM HOME MADE, ED ROBERT JUDSON, GARNI and more..
N.HOOLYWOOD
"Neo Classic Country" for the Modern Man
"N.HOOLYWOOD" 2014 Spring/Summer Collection
William S. Hart, the film actor and director who loved justice and chivalry and lived in the West, was a frontier man. He enjoyed immense popularity in silent Western films until the advent of talkies in the 1920s, and his acting and techniques, which showcased not only human strength but also vulnerability, greatly influenced the film industry. Inspired by Hart, N.Hollywood's latest collection theme is "TWO-GUN HART," an homage to Hart, who earned this nickname from his representative work, "Two-Gun."
Text by Makoto KAJII (OPENERS)
The Collection's Theme: "TWO-GUN HART"
Western, an Icon of American Culture—The style of cowboys back then, riding horses through dust, involved heavy colors and equipment. N.Hollywood has reinterpreted this, focusing on light and bright fabrics to create a modern sublimation.
The designer's signature vintage aesthetic is evident in original textiles inspired by Western shirts, rugs, and blankets, as well as in details like studs and embroidery.
After retiring, Hart ran a ranch in Hollywood. About 20 years ago, Obana, then a vintage clothing buyer, happened to be based in a house very close to his ranch.
Obana's engagement with American culture results in a "Neo Classic Country" style for the modern man. In the collection, denim material is used in various items such as suits, slacks, and jumpers, expressing the Western mood with a unique approach.
In addition to the popular collaborative items like Lee's "WESTERCORDS" slim pique pants from the 80s, Wrangler denim jackets, jeans, and denim shirts, this season also features leather items in collaboration with leather carving artist "Rooster King & Co."
N.HOOLYWOOD
http://n-hoolywood.tumblr.com/








