A Decade of “EDWIN’s Strengths Are Forbidden”

“The washing techniques that we excel at are a no-go for the Margaret Howell collaboration,” says Kobayashi. In today’s denim industry, washing is considered an essential process, vital for sales. However, for this collaboration, it was deemed unsuitable for the brand. This commitment to detail is characteristic of Margaret Howell. On the other hand, “we are often inspired by their pursuit of the original indigo color of denim.”

“Jeans can be deceptive once washed. But the original color cannot be faked. Our main theme for this collaboration has been how to achieve the indigo blue without washing. It’s rare for EDWIN to have a collaboration with a designer brand that lasts for 10 years, and we feel we’ve shared a valuable period together.”

“With the Margaret Howell collaboration, our focus is on authenticity. To achieve depth of color, each element—the thread, water, techniques, and finish—must be genuine for approval. I believe Margaret Howell’s appeal lies in its ‘freshness that evolves yet remains unchanged,’ and this freshness is achieved through meticulous attention to detail. This resonates with EDWIN’s philosophy, which is why our partnership has endured for 10 years without compromise,” says Kobayashi.

Why They’re Called Denim Trousers, Not Jeans

Kobayashi has been involved in the collaboration for nine years and also conducts lectures on denim for Margaret Howell’s sales staff. “Many people think denim is dyed after it becomes fabric, but denim is a woven fabric made with indigo warp threads and white weft threads. By varying the combination of these threads, we create fresh appearances, colors, and wearing comfort.”

Furthermore, the patterns for Margaret Howell and EDWIN’s bottoms are original. Recognizing the strengths of both Margaret Howell, which originated from tailoring, and EDWIN, the pioneer of jeans, they pursue ease of wear. “Jeans began as workwear, so the construction, patterns, and concepts are entirely different. With that in mind, we fuse them with Margaret Howell’s aesthetic to create superior products,” he explains.

“Because we use selvedge (the edge of the denim fabric), the side seams tend to be straight, creating a ducktail effect. However, we modify this to create ‘trousers’ that also pair well with jackets.”

This season’s denim features a lower warp and weft density, offering a crisp texture and light weight suitable for midsummer. For chinos, they’ve used a lightweight chino made with Supima cotton for the warp and a six-ply cotton for the weft, subjected to a long wash. This process intentionally mutes the luster of the premium warp threads, leaving a subtle sheen and achieving a deep color. The result is a fabric with an exceptionally pleasant feel.

Additionally, for two women’s styles (a dress and a shirt) and one men’s style (a shirt), they are introducing yarn-dyed linen as the second installment for the collaboration’s 10th anniversary. This fabric uses different indigo threads for the warp and weft, creating a rich, layered blue hue.

“What we want to challenge next is EDWIN’s signature washing techniques. We aim to propose something unprecedented that can further expand both our worlds. We are currently planning products for Spring/Summer 2014. Please look forward to them.” The collection, a culmination of the two brands' strengths in denim, chinos, painter pants, and shirts, invites you to experience a world of indigo.

MARGARET HOWELL JINNAN
1-13-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Park Avenue Jinnan 1F
Tel. 03-5459-3723 (SHOP), Tel. 03-5459-3721 (CAFE)
Opening Hours | 11:00–20:00
Irregular Holidays

ANGLOBAL
Tel. 03-5467-7874
http://www.margarethowell.jp/