ISETAN MEN'S | British Luxury Shoemaker Anthony Cleary's Ready-to-Wear Collection Debuts at Isetan Shinjuku Men's Store
FASHION / MEN
January 30, 2015

ISETAN MEN'S | British Luxury Shoemaker Anthony Cleary's Ready-to-Wear Collection Debuts at Isetan Shinjuku Men's Store


ISETAN MEN'S | Isetan


George Cleverley's Third-Generation President, George Glasgow Jr., Discusses Legendary Shoes


Anthony Cleverley Ready-to-Wear Debut (1)



Anthony Cleverley, the top-tier line from George Cleverley & Co., whose clients include George Clooney, Elton John, David Beckham, Andy Garcia, and Rudolph Valentino, is launching its ultimate footwear, crafted with expertise honed through bespoke shoemaking, at Isetan Shinjuku Men's. The interview features George Glasgow Jr., CEO of George Cleverley & Co. Despite his commanding presence, he is a young executive of just 28 years old.

Text by KAJII Makoto (OPENERS)Photographs by TAKADA Miduho





To describe the fit: "Like a glove"



The founder, George Cleverley, born in 1898, spent approximately 40 years building his career at a London bespoke brand before launching his own label, GEORGE CLEVERLEY, in 1958. The brand temporarily ceased operations in the 70s, but in the 90s, Anthony Cleverley, George Cleverley's nephew, established the brand "Anthony Cleverley."
Furthermore, in 1993, the brand was revived by John Carnera and George Glasgow. The George Glasgow Jr. interviewed here is the third-generation president.

Could you tell us about the previous generation's shoes?

The founder, George Cleverley, captivated many customers with his square chisel-toe shoes and pursuit of a perfect fit. Meanwhile, Anthony Cleverley continuously pursued elegant shoemaking. While adhering to the fundamentals of classic footwear, he combined unique designs and proportions to create modern, one-of-a-kind shoes.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 02

Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 03




Could you describe the fit of the Anthony Cleverley shoes you are wearing today?

I wear both bespoke and ready-to-wear, and both feature a sharply defined, beveled waist that strongly supports the arch of the foot. Combined with Cleverley's signature chisel toe, they are visually beautiful and comfortable to wear. The fit... I often use the expression "like a glove," and the feeling of the shoe enveloping the foot is characteristic of Anthony Cleverley.

It's often said that Goodyear-welted shoes loosen up as they are worn, so a snug fit initially is good. However, I don't particularly recommend wearing shoes that are painfully tight. Our shoes are made with very soft calf leather, so they are comfortable from the first wear, and we are confident in their fit for Japanese feet.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 05

Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 06




What is the basis for that confidence?

We have a history of over 20 years in Japan and have made bespoke shoes for Japanese clients, so we are very familiar with the characteristics of Japanese feet: short, wide, and high instep. While the width (foot circumference) we offer in our London shop is D, we make it E for Japanese customers, paying maximum attention to the fit.







ISETAN MEN'S | Isetan


George Cleverley's Third-Generation President, George Glasgow Jr., Discusses Legendary Shoes


Anthony Cleverley Ready-to-Wear Debut (2)





David Beckham Was Astonished!



The shoes being released this time are ready-to-wear, correct?

Yes, we have been discussing this ready-to-wear launch with Isetan's buyers for over two years. Anthony Cleverley began producing semi-bespoke shoes five years ago, modifying some of Anthony Cleverley's original lasts and developing lasts that support the arch. We had people in Japan, America, and Singapore try on the resulting shoes, further refining the lasts and aiming for a construction that leverages the benefits of handmade craftsmanship.

What about the designs of the ready-to-wear shoes?

We have a wonderful archive and client list. From that list, we selected designs that are quintessentially Anthony Cleverley, made 50 to 60 years ago. We are bringing to life shoes worn by Givenchy and the Rothschilds.

Is there an anecdote involving David Beckham?

When he visited our London shop, he seemed impressed, saying, "These are all new designs, aren't they?" But when I replied, "No, these are styles from 50 to 60 years ago, but they were all cutting-edge designs at the time," he seemed very surprised.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 12

Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 13




The ready-to-wear shoes being released this time also feature superb leather for the uppers, correct?

Indeed. We are releasing seven models this time, all using the same leather as our bespoke shoes. The calf leather we approve of is becoming scarcer each year, but we have carefully selected it after visiting tanneries around the world. We make no compromises in selecting our leather. Furthermore, like our bespoke shoes, they come with shoe trees that match the last.

What are the characteristics of British shoes?

Of course, it's hard to generalize, but shoes and cars are very similar. Think of Bentley in Britain,Bentley, and Ferrari in Italy.FerrariBritain values tradition while embodying robustness and quality, yet it evolves. Italy is modern, stylish, and innovative. This image also resonates with fashion styles.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 14

Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 16




What is your impression of Japanese men's fashion?

The foundation is very classic, but there's also an adventurous spirit at times. We see a playful touch, such as choosing midnight blue calf leather for our shoes. They also deeply respect brands and show great interest in their origins. In that sense, I believe brands like ours can capture the interest of many Japanese customers.

What are your impressions of the shoe department at Isetan Shinjuku Men's?

It's a wonderful environment, and we are grateful that Anthony Cleverley shoes are displayed in such a prime location. I've seen shoe departments in department stores and select shops all over the world, and Isetan's sales staff are different. I am deeply impressed by how well they understand the products and can clearly explain their features to customers.







ISETAN MEN'S | Isetan


George Cleverley's Third-Generation President, George Glasgow Jr., Discusses Legendary Shoes


Anthony Cleverley Ready-to-Wear Debut (3)





Pride in Doing the Same for the Next 50 Years as We Did for the Past 50



Is the release of ready-to-wear shoes at Isetan particularly special this time?

Yes. Our workshop is located on the second floor of our Old Bond Street shop in London. We receive requests from shops worldwide to carry Anthony Cleverley, but our production volume is very limited, so we are currently not accepting new clients.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 21

Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 23




What are the benefits of wearing good shoes?

Wearing good shoes makes you feel more composed and confident. Do you know the saying, "Invest in your shoes and your bed"? It means that if you want to be a good person, you should be particular about your shoes and bed. I certainly sleep in a good bed myself (laughs).

How do you maintain your shoes?

As with any shoes, the golden rule is not to wear them continuously. Letting them rest the day after wearing them is the key to longevity. And after wearing them, always insert shoe trees to let them rest. I take care of my shoes on Sundays. For me, it's a very relaxing way to unwind.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 24

Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 29




Do you have a message for Anthony Cleverley fans?

We will continue to do the same for the next 50 years as we have for the past 50. They are that special. As we craft many shoes for today's executives and celebrities, we don't see ourselves as just shoemakers. Please, try on the seven models available at Isetan. You will surely be surprised by the difference.

Thank you very much.



Isetan | Anthony Cleverley 30



Isetan Shinjuku Store
3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Tel. 03-3352-1111 (General Inquiries)
http://www.isetan.co.jp/