FASHION /
MEN
February 26, 2015
RFW | Takashi Kanoko on the Creation of the New RFW
RFW | RFW
Formerly RHYTHM FOOT WEAR
Designer Takashi Kanagoki Discusses the Creation of the New RFW (1)
RHYTHM FOOT WEAR, celebrating its 15th anniversary this year, has been rebranded as RFW starting with the current collection. The boot collection RFW, bag collection RAD, and three other lines have been unified under a single image. Expectations are high for future developments with a stronger focus on originality. We spoke with designer Takashi Kanagoki about the 2012 Spring/Summer collection, the first from the new RFW.
Text by Mayu Fujita (OPENERS)Photographs by Midzuho Takada
Just as rhythm is essential to music and life, shoes need rhythm too
—The brand name was changed this season. What was the origin of the brand name “RHYTHM FOOT WEAR” in the first place?
When you think of “rhythm,” it’s important in music and life, and I believe shoes need rhythm too. Shoes you can casually slip on when taking out the trash in the morning or walking the dog,—In Japan, people take their shoes on and off more frequently than overseas, so I want to propose shoes that can fit into the rhythms of daily life, including the rhythm of that action.
For me, rather than being cool, it’s important how often they are worn throughout the 365 days of the year and whether they are repurchased when they break. Rhythm is something necessary for living, and I hope RFW can become such an indispensable presence.
Designer Takashi Kanagoki
—Why change the brand name to RFW?
We took the initials from “RHYTHM FOOT WEAR” to make “RFW.” While the 15th anniversary is a factor, I thought we could present the brand name itself as a mark. Even if people can’t read it, they can recognize it as a shape. I also plan to eventually remove the “RHYTHM FOOT WEAR” text printed on the insoles. I don’t want people to know the brand just by looking at the logo; I want to create products that can be identified solely by their shape.
Even with great design, it won't work if the comfort is poor
—Has the brand concept changed as well?
The brand concept remains unchanged. We aim for simple, basic items with originality in their appearance, without excessive ornamentation. Rather than showcasing intricate cutting, we focus on bold, instantly recognizable cuts. If the design isn't interesting, people won't pick it up. First, it needs to be an interesting design, and then we consider functionality. After all, they are shoes, and they won't work if they aren't comfortable. For example, when you're in a hurry in the morning, you probably have certain shoes you instinctively reach for. Isn't that due to comfort, ease of wear, or other sensory aspects that are more important than looks?
That's why we are particular about comfort. For instance, the “Sandwich” features a bold cut on the side panels not only for design interest but also because the panels are reversed at the point where the foot naturally flexes. Additionally, the “Moca Suede” and “Kona Suede” have a wide fit, allowing toes to move freely, and the insoles are contoured to support the arch of the foot.
Supporting the arch not only increases the sense of fit but also stabilizes walking. Comparing the “Moca Suede” and “Sandwich,” the “Sandwich” might seem much slimmer, but that's just to give it a sharp appearance; the width is actually made wider.
RFW | RFW
Formerly RHYTHM FOOT WEAR
Designer Takashi Kanagoki Discusses the Creation of the New RFW (2)
We focus on originality in the soles
—Do you set a season theme for the designs?
We don't particularly set a season theme. We also don't pay much attention to shoe or fashion trends. Based on the inspiration I have at the time, we develop two or three new models each season, and for the standard models, we change the colors and materials. With the rebranding of the logo, we decided to start with black and white for the basic shapes. It's not exactly a return to our roots, but I want to gradually add more colors from here.
Since the design of the upper can sometimes be hidden by the bottoms, we focus on originality in the soles, such as the vibrant blue outsole and the thick side lines, or the wavy lines on the “Moca Suede.” For these wavy lines, we bond rubber of different colors, but when heat is applied, the lines don't come out very cleanly... it was quite a struggle.
We also include shoelaces in different colors and styles so that you can enjoy different looks with a single pair.
The “Moca Suede” can also be worn as slip-ons by removing the shoelaces. It's designed with elastic on the upper and a heel counter for a secure fit. This elastic can also be hidden inside the tongue, and since there are two sets of shoelaces—one matching the body color and another contrasting—you can enjoy four different expressions.
We want to create timeless shoes that transcend generations and styles
—Do you have any advice for choosing sizes when purchasing online?
Foot shapes vary from person to person, and preferences for comfort and balance with outfits differ, so I can't say for sure, but for the “Moca Suede” and “Kona Suede,” which are originally designed for comfort with a relaxed fit and have a voluminous appearance, we recommend wearing them true to size. For the “Sandwich” and “Bagel,” you might want to allow about 1 cm of extra room.
—Could you tell us about your future plans?
Currently, our main market is fashion, but in the future, I want to create products that can also be accepted by specialty shoe stores. And eventually, I hope to create timeless shoes that transcend generations and styles, from stylish adults to ordinary junior high school students. Something very simple and timeless, not relying on decoration or technique. It's quite difficult, though. Also, I want to be more involved with music.
I feel that the distance between music and fashion has widened now compared to the past. For me, I came to like fashion through music, and my decision to study shoemaking in England was also greatly influenced by music, so it makes me a little sad. Last year, I held live events with musicians I'm close with and participated in the form of providing costumes, but I hope to continue supporting them in some way in the future.
—Thank you very much.
