Made-to-Measure by Ralph Lauren Purple Label | RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL
FASHION / FEATURES
March 31, 2018

Made-to-Measure by Ralph Lauren Purple Label | RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL

Presented by RALPH LAUREN

RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL


Indulge in the luxury of a "one-of-a-kind" creation.
Made-to-Measure by Ralph Lauren Purple Label


A made-to-measure service that blends Ralph Lauren's stylish sensibility with the finest craftsmanship to offer the ultimate wardrobe. To learn more, Tomoki Yuma, an editor who has experienced numerous orders himself, visits the Ralph Lauren Omotesando store. We speak with a specialist who handles hundreds of orders annually to uncover the full scope and allure of this service.

Interview by Yuma TomokiPhotographs by Yuki Sato (KiliKiliVilla)Text by Satoko Hatakeyama




The charm of handmade lies in its "roundness" and comfort.


YumaToday, I'd like to learn about Ralph Lauren's made-to-measure service. First, which lines can be ordered here?



Specialist (hereafter SP)We offer two brands: "Polo Ralph Lauren" (hereafter Polo) and "Ralph Lauren Purple Label" (hereafter Purple Label).

Polo is machine-made only, but for Purple Label, you can order items produced with both machine-made and handmade techniques.

Polo has been made in the USA since this season.


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Regarding Purple Label, we just received four new fabric sample books from New York the other day.

YumaFor example, with Purple Label, what kind of difference in wearing feel is there between machine-made and handmade orders?

SPMany customers who order handmade say, "The roundness is different." It conforms perfectly to the body, and there's a warmth from the human touch that machines can't replicate. We who take orders also feel that's a significant difference from machine-made.

The shoulder movement is also well-accommodated, and handmade garments appear to blend more seamlessly with the wearer's physique. Furthermore, those who prefer the comfort of handmade often opt for handmade again in subsequent orders.

YumaWhat specific processes or techniques create that "roundness"?

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SPWe have a jacket here in the same style, one handmade and one machine-made. If you look at them, the difference in finish is immediately apparent.

For handmade, the interlining is different from the start, and all processes, such as attaching the collar and sleeves, are meticulously hand-sewn by skilled artisans.



The tension of the thread in hand-sewing by artisans is entirely different from that of a machine, allowing for maximum stretch in response to the body's movements. Combined with these factors, handmade garments are said to achieve a comfort distinct from machine-sewn, or machine-made, items.

YumaEven in this era of AI, machine-made cannot surpass handmade, is that right? So, in terms of the ordering process, when you visit the store, you choose the design you want, correct? Do the available designs differ between handmade and machine-made?

SPYes. For jackets, the machine-made option includes a model called "Anthony," which has square shoulders and a slightly British construction. It's a basic two-button, side-vent design with a not-too-high gorge line – a truly authentic style.

Based on this "Anthony," you can change the collar shape, opt for a double-breasted front, or even create a one-button shawl-collar tuxedo. For handmade, we have the "Drake," a classic British style, and the "Kent," which incorporates a touch of Italian flair.



The "Kent" uses a British silhouette construction, but it incorporates Italian elements that emphasize lightness with a thinner interlining.

Mr. Yuma, if you don't mind, would you try on the two handmade models? Is your size a 46?

YumaI'm a 47. A 46 feels a bit tight on me...


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SPThat's precisely why we highly recommend made-to-measure. How does it feel?

YumaThe "Drake" has a fitted body and feels very British.

SPThen, could you please try on the "Kent"? This one is made with a shawl collar and a double-breasted front.

YumaThis is incredibly comfortable. The "Drake," being so classic, might be a bit too tight for me. The "Kent" feels very relaxed to wear.

SPThe "Kent" is popular not only with our Japanese customers but also with international clients.

YumaIs it possible to order individual items like just a vest or just trousers, not only full suits or jackets?

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SPAbsolutely. For businessmen who wear suits daily, trousers often wear out first, so some customers order two pairs of trousers from the beginning.

For trousers, machine-made comes in a no-pleat style only. Handmade adds a two-pleat, single-pleat option. Many customers think, "If the price is not much different from ready-to-wear, I'd rather have it made to my preference."



Twice a year, the Omotesando store hosts a trunk show (order event) with experts from our headquarters, during which prices are discounted by 10%. This makes them comparable to, and sometimes even cheaper than, ready-to-wear items, so it's a great opportunity.

YumaThat's a fantastic deal! In that case, it's definitely better to order!

SPWe apologize for the three-month wait from order to completion, but it's very gratifying for us that many customers feel the excitement of their purchase continues throughout the waiting period.



RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL


Indulge in the luxury of a "one-of-a-kind" creation.
Made-to-Measure by Ralph Lauren Purple Label (2)



Experience the joy of creating your "one-of-a-kind" garment.





YumaCan we choose from the same range of fabrics for both machine-made and handmade?

SPYou can choose from either. We always have over 1000 fabric samples, but for our V.I.P. clients who order regularly, we sometimes show exclusive fabrics. Some of these were even fabrics owned by Ralph Lauren himself.


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Yuma(Touching a vintage fabric) I've seen photos of Mr. Ralph Lauren wearing a suit tailored from this fabric. He paired it with a black turtleneck sweater, and it looked incredibly stylish.

SPSome customers order only navy every season. They only order solid colors, but they seem to enjoy the collection of different shades of blue in their closets.

YumaOnly wearing solid navy reminds me of Kazuhiko Kato in a certain era. He was a stylish and sophisticated man.

SPWe also have many clients who are presidents of major companies, lawyers, and doctors. Doctors, in particular, often come to us to create personalized garments for speaking at academic conferences.

YumaIndeed, one needs to look sharp when presenting to others to be persuasive.

SPI understand you've also experienced many orders, Mr. Yuma. Personally, what kind of fabrics do you favor?

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YumaI love glen check. However, I've made so many that I have about 20 glen check suits already.

Even so, when I see the fabrics here, I feel the urge to make another glen check suit, which is a problem.

I'm currently ordering a suit from another brand made of solid wool mohair.



For spring and summer, I like linen, but I feel I haven't quite mastered it yet. I've made a few, but they often don't feel quite right.

SPRegarding linen, we had a customer who ordered an unlined coat. Nowadays, women often wear unlined linen coats, and I would recommend linen as a material for lighter coats. The fabric selections here are ultimately chosen only after receiving approval from Ralph Lauren himself.

YumaAfter the ordered item is completed in three months, do I come back to the store for a final fitting?

SPThat's correct. For both machine-made and handmade items, the hems and sleeves arrive here unfinished. When the customer returns for a second fitting, we make minor adjustments. Then, the artisans in our workshop on the third floor perform the final finishing before completion and handover.

YumaSo the finishing is done here at the store. Everything is indeed about meticulous detail. That's why the communication between us is so important; it's a made-to-measure service that truly feels bespoke.





SPFurthermore, we also offer custom shirt orders here. While we display only the most representative collar designs in the store, there are about 10 choices in total. All are handmade in our Italian workshop.

YumaIt's best to have shirts made to order, isn't it? I've ordered custom shirts several times, and somehow, even after wearing them for a long time, I don't feel tired. It would be wonderful if we could also order ties here.


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SPWe receive many such requests from customers, and we are considering it, but unfortunately, we haven't reached that point yet... We also offer custom orders for shoes and bags, all made in our Italian workshops. For shoes, you can choose hardware and medallions, and change the upper material.

YumaThe shoe trees are also very stylish. Hearing all this, it feels like quite an order paradise. Has Ralph Lauren always offered made-to-measure for nearly all items like this?

SPNo, it feels like the system has been significantly refined in just the last few years. Many other brands are also focusing on made-to-measure now, so we are keen to further enhance Ralph Lauren's unique made-to-measure service.

YumaLastly, I have one question: from the maker's perspective, how would you summarize the essence of made-to-measure in one word?

SPI believe it ultimately comes down to "one-of-a-kind in the world." It's about providing a personal garment, unique to that individual. We take pride in being able to offer such personalized items.

YumaI completely agree. In that case, perhaps I'll indulge and order two "world's only" creations (laughs).

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*All Ralph Lauren Purple Label items are made in Italy.

Inquiries


Ralph Lauren


0120-3274-20


https://www.ralphlauren.com




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