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March 29, 2024
The Quality of "Iwate Moriya," Which Supports the Value of LANVIN COLLECTION Together – Part 1 | LANVIN COLLECTION
Presented by LANVINLANVIN COLLECTION | LANVIN COLLECTION
The Quality of 'Iwate Moriya' Supporting the Value of LANVIN COLLECTION
Inheriting the image of 'Lanvin,' one of the world's oldest couture houses, LANVIN COLLECTION offers sophisticated and high-quality items crafted with luxurious materials, expert cutting techniques, and meticulous attention to detail. To uphold its uncompromising quality, the brand has partnered with a sewing factory called 'Iwate Moriya.'
Text by OSUJYO Ryouta | Photographs by CHO Uki
The Production Factory Crafting the Quality of LANVIN COLLECTION
Just before spring, stepping through the lingering snow, the OPENERS editorial team visited a factory nestled by the sea in Kuji City, Iwate Prefecture. Founded in this region in 1988, 'Iwate Moriya' is a sewing factory specializing in women's jackets and coats. Their connection with LANVIN COLLECTION is particularly deep, having been responsible for producing primarily jackets for over 20 years.
In recent years, Japan's apparel industry has been in steady decline, with production bases moving overseas. The number of workers in the overall sewing industry has decreased by about 30% compared to a decade ago. Many sewing factories are facing bankruptcy due to declining sales and labor shortages.
Amidst these challenges, Iwate Moriya employs over 70 skilled artisans and produces approximately 4,000 high-priced jackets and coats per month.
Furthermore, the company has garnered attention in the business world, being recognized as a 'Regional Future Leading Industry' by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry in 2018, and selected as one of the '100 Textile Industries Leading the Era' in 2023.
—Why is Iwate Moriya so vibrant?
Furthermore, the company has garnered attention in the business world, being recognized as a 'Regional Future Leading Industry' by the Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry in 2018, and selected as one of the '100 Textile Industries Leading the Era' in 2023.
—Why is Iwate Moriya so vibrant?
Nobutaka Morioku, President of Iwate Moriya
Born in Bunkyo Ward, Tokyo, in 1953. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, he joined Moriya Yosoh, the sewing company founded by his father. In 1988, he established Iwate Moriya in Kuji City, Iwate Prefecture, as a spin-off from the parent company, and became its president. He also serves as the representative director of the North Iwate Apparel Industry Promotion Association and vice chairman of the Tohoku Six Prefectures Sewing Organizations Federation.
Born in Bunkyo Ward, Tokyo, in 1953. After graduating from Bunka Fashion College, he joined Moriya Yosoh, the sewing company founded by his father. In 1988, he established Iwate Moriya in Kuji City, Iwate Prefecture, as a spin-off from the parent company, and became its president. He also serves as the representative director of the North Iwate Apparel Industry Promotion Association and vice chairman of the Tohoku Six Prefectures Sewing Organizations Federation.
Pre-processing Stage Enhanced by Digitalization
'I believe you will understand the answer once you see the factory,' he says.
These are the words of Nobutaka Morioku, the president, who has dramatically improved Iwate Moriya's production quality through unique management reforms.
These are the words of Nobutaka Morioku, the president, who has dramatically improved Iwate Moriya's production quality through unique management reforms.
'First, please observe the pre-processing stage.'
Pre-processing refers to the stages that occur before sewing. In culinary terms, it's akin to preparing and pre-treating ingredients.
'This room is our 'Fabric Testing Room.' Each fabric has different stretch and shrinkage properties depending on the direction. Even within the same product number, there can be subtle differences between colors. We test the fabrics used and digitize the data to aid in creating patterns for each brand.'
Detailed fabric data is often not included in the specifications provided by the client. Therefore, Iwate Moriya conducts its own tests before sewing. Few factories consider the characteristics of materials and fabrics when conducting tests.
'Sponging,' which uses custom-made machinery, is another process Iwate Moriya focuses on.
'Simply put, it's a process to bring the fabric to its optimal state. Most fabrics are stored in rolls (gen-tan) after production and delivered to the factory. As a result, they may stretch, shrink, or distort due to tension and humidity from various directions. Sponging uses steam and heat to return the fabric to its original state.'
If sponging is neglected, the fabric's stretching and shrinking during the tailoring process can lead to distortions and dimensional inaccuracies.
Once the fabric is prepared, the process moves to 'CAD.' CAD is specialized software for apparel design that facilitates pattern modifications.
'Five years ago, we introduced new software called Clairempo II. Using this, we make minor adjustments to the CAD data provided by the brand while checking the results of fabric tests. It allows us to check the finished appearance in 3D, and also supports grading (creating patterns for different sizes) and marking (arranging patterns on the fabric).'
'CAM' is a machine that cuts fabric based on patterns created in CAD. Compared to manual work, it significantly increases speed and efficiency.
The pattern data is sent to the CAM via the internet. The data, arranged to minimize fabric waste, is projected onto the fabric by a projector installed directly above. The fabric is then automatically cut along the pattern lines.
'The most challenging part of cutting is matching patterns, such as checks. Previously, this was handled by five artisans, but with the introduction of the latest machinery, it can now be done by a single person.'
'Much Manual Work' Does Not Necessarily Mean 'High Quality'
'Surprised by the small number of people, weren't you?' Mr. Morioku asks.
Indeed, the number of staff seems low relative to the production volume. The number of artisans operating the large machinery is typically one to three per machine. The rhythmic sound of the machines echoes in the quiet factory.
Indeed, the number of staff seems low relative to the production volume. The number of artisans operating the large machinery is typically one to three per machine. The rhythmic sound of the machines echoes in the quiet factory.
'There are processes where using machinery leads to higher efficiency and quality in creating high-quality garments. It's not simply that 'more manual work' equals 'higher quality.'
Iwate Moriya actively incorporates machinery in its pre-processing stages to reduce labor costs and save time and effort.
'Reducing personnel leads to rationalization of production, but that's not the real goal. It's all for nurturing our people.'
This season's supple and beautifully finished jacket, made by Iwate Moriya
Jacket ¥79,200
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