Iwate Moriya has been producing mainly jackets and coats for "LANVIN COLLECTION" for over 20 years. In the first part, we reported on the state of the pre-processing stage where state-of-the-art machines are used. In the second part, we move to the sewing area where many artisans demonstrate their skills. The source of the technical expertise that can meet the high-level demands of LANVIN COLLECTION lies in the people they nurture in-house.

Pushing aside the vinyl curtains that prevent dust from entering, we enter the sewing area. The atmosphere here is completely different from the pre-processing stage. In four lines, many artisans are operating sewing machines and irons.

"Iwate Moriya's strength is its technical skill. Currently, we have 10 artisans certified with the Level 1 Women's Garment Manufacturing Technician qualification, a national certification from the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare, and 26 with Level 2. A sewing factory where certified technicians make up over 40% of the workforce is rare."

"Ha-sashi" and "Kusetori" are processes that highlight Iwate Moriya's technical skill.
Ha-sashi refers to the figure-eight stitching on the underside of a suit's lapel, used to sew the interlining and fabric together. This technique is also frequently incorporated into LANVIN COLLECTION jackets.

"This is commonly found in high-end men's suits and is a rare specification for women's jackets. It allows the collar roll to maintain its beautiful shape and prevents the interlining and fabric from separating due to moisture."

Kusetori is the process of shaping garment parts with an iron before sewing them together. This creates a three-dimensional effect in the fabric and enhances the fit to the body. However, it requires advanced techniques and considerable effort, so it is not commonly performed on ready-to-wear garments. This extra step is crucial for LANVIN COLLECTION jackets, which prioritize comfort.

"We apply Kusetori to the front and back panels, and the arm sections of both sleeves. Whether this is done or not makes a significant difference in the finished garment's comfort and the three-dimensionality of the silhouette."

"However, to ensure consistent quality and production volume, we cannot rely solely on the experience, intuition, and techniques of our artisans. Our goal is to produce items with 100% quality in a short cycle. To achieve this, we actively utilize machinery. Currently, we can complete production and ship items within three days."

By providing each employee with a tablet, we share information such as work status and production numbers. The assembly process utilizes an "Eaton" hanger system that prevents wrinkles.

"Ultimately, manufacturing is about people. By improving quality and production efficiency with the latest equipment, we create the capacity to train people. And as people are trained, quality improves, sales increase, and we can invest in equipment."

"The value of the LANVIN COLLECTION brand is supported by the reliable quality created through the technical skill and experience of Iwate Moriya, our sewing factory."

These are the words of Naoto Tsuji, who is in charge of production for the LANVIN COLLECTION planning team.

"Iwate Moriya consistently realizes challenging requests for us. This allows our designers to take on new challenges and fully express their creativity. Each season's cumulative efforts form the foundation of the brand."

The designer's intentions are conveyed through the specifications, which are documents sent from the brand to the factory detailing instructions for garment production.

Indeed, as we follow the process, we see that unique operations not listed in the specifications, such as fabric testing, CAD data adjustments, ha-sashi, and kusetori, are being performed.

"The ability to build trust is paramount."

Iwate Moriya began handling LANVIN COLLECTION jackets 21 years ago, after receiving a request for their production.

"We are fortunate that LANVIN COLLECTION highly values our manufacturing approach as a mark of quality. We have now moved beyond mere trust to build a professional relationship where we pursue 'monozukuri' (manufacturing) together. By sensing the intentions of the designers and pattern makers involved in LANVIN COLLECTION's 'monozukuri,' the affection we develop for LANVIN COLLECTION becomes a 'highly pure added value' that cannot be created solely through 'specifications' or 'patterns'."

"Everyone on the LANVIN COLLECTION staff is serious about 'monozukuri.' Seeing them strive for excellence inspires us to be equally dedicated, and to continue passing down our skills to earnestly meet their exacting standards."

"The meaning of 'skill' lies in its continuous transmission."
"If we give up simply because something is difficult, that skill ceases to exist at that moment. We want to continue evolving so that we can keep pace with LANVIN COLLECTION's dedication to 'monozukuri'."

Mr. Morioku says, looking around the factory.

"Balancing production efficiency and quality is a given. What is required in the future is how artisans can enhance the brand's added value through their own thinking and actions. I believe this will be a crucial key for Japanese manufacturing to compete globally."

OPENERS editorial team: High creativity and the pride of the makers in quality. When these two are connected by the bridge of trust, the product is elevated to a "work of art." We realized that the value of the LANVIN COLLECTION brand is rooted in the fusion of "the relentless pursuit of artisans."