Miyoji Okabe | Series | Vol. 14: Are You Choosing Sunscreen Correctly?
Vol. 14: Are You Choosing Sunscreen Correctly?
Miyoji Okabe, who was involved in the creation of numerous excellent cosmetics during her time in the research and product development departments of major cosmetic manufacturers. Drawing on her insatiable quest for beauty, sharp insight, and deep knowledge as a researcher, she will explain various "beauty questions" from a scientific perspective.
Narration by Miyoji Okabe
Photography by JAMANDFIX
Ultraviolet rays are the enemy of beautiful skin. Skin damage caused by UV rays leads not only to dark spots but also to wrinkles and sagging. It is no exaggeration to say that protecting your skin from UV rays is an essential condition for maintaining beautiful skin. Let's choose sunscreen cosmetics wisely and protect ourselves from UV rays without burdening our skin!
Q. What are the common ingredients in sunscreen?
The main ingredients in sunscreen are substances called "UV absorbers," such as "oxybenzone," "ethylhexyl salicylate," and "ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate," and "UV scatterers," such as "micronized titanium dioxide" and "plate-like zinc oxide." So, what are "UV absorbers"? They are substances that absorb UV rays, weaken their energy, convert them into infrared rays, and then release them. "UV scatterers," as the name suggests, reflect and scatter UV rays, preventing them from penetrating the skin. The mechanism of UV protection is that these substances absorb UV rays or convert their energy into infrared rays and release it, thereby guarding the skin from UV rays.
Q. Do these ingredients cause dark spots or wrinkles?
Currently, it is very rare for ingredients to directly cause adverse effects on the skin. Unfortunately, this is a major misconception about sunscreen. Of course, only safe substances are used in the formulation. However, some substances can cause allergic reactions depending on the individual. If you continue to use a UV-cut product with a formulation that doesn't suit your skin, it can lead to skin irritation, which in turn can cause dark spots and wrinkles. However, this applies to all cosmetics, not just sunscreen, so if this happens, stop using it and take proper care. Another point I'd like to address regarding misconceptions is the idea that "non-chemical formulas = safe." Cosmetic manufacturers began using the term "non-chemical" to claim "safety," and now the image that "chemical substances are dangerous" and "natural substances are safe" has permeated consumers. Cosmetics are naturally made with safety in mind, so it is most important to choose a product that suits your skin without being swayed by words.
Vol. 14: Are You Choosing Sunscreen Correctly?
Q. Then, how can I tell which sunscreen is right for me?
To do that, you first need to have a correct understanding of UV rays and sunscreen ratings, so let's start there. There are two types of UV rays: "UVB," which causes skin to turn red and then darken a few days later, and "UVA," which causes skin to darken immediately after sun exposure. "SPF" and "PA" are numerical representations of the protective effects against these UV rays. The higher the "SPF" number, the higher the UVB protection, and the more plus signs "+" a "PA" rating has, the higher the UVA protection. So, how is "SPF" calculated? Since UV sensitivity varies from person to person, the calculation method differs. For example, if a sunscreen has an "SPF of 20," and it takes 20 minutes for your skin to turn red without any protection, the calculation would be 20 minutes multiplied by 20, resulting in 400 minutes of UV protection. If it takes 30 minutes for your skin to turn red, it would be 30 minutes multiplied by 20, resulting in 600 minutes of UV protection. On the other hand, the "PA+" notation means "PA+ = effective," "PA++ = very effective," and "PA+++ = extremely effective." Therefore, "SPF" and "PA" ratings serve as a general guide for choosing sunscreen. However, these ratings assume that the sunscreen doesn't wash off due to sweat or sebum, so it's ideal to reapply every two to three hours when you sweat.
By the way, the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association's guidelines for SPF in daily life are: SPF 10 for walking or shopping, SPF 20 for light outdoor sports and leisure, SPF 30 for leisure activities in strong sunlight or marine sports, and SPF 50 for areas with very strong UV radiation or for those with UV-sensitive skin. Therefore, using a serum or makeup base with SPF 20 or higher in daily life is generally sufficient.
Q. I see. Are there any precautions when applying it?
One point is that applying too little reduces its effectiveness. The higher the SPF value, the greater the content and density of UV-blocking agents, leaving fewer gaps. However, this effect is measured by applying 2mg of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin. In reality, this is a considerable amount, and most women apply it thinly because it feels sticky or leaves a white cast. If you want to ensure UV protection, it's best to apply a generous amount.
Q. Are there any precautions when washing my face?
As a basic rule, use a makeup remover to remove sunscreen, similar to how you would remove regular makeup. In that case, we recommend choosing a product from the same manufacturer if possible. This is because manufacturers test whether their products can be removed with their own removers during development. Even so, it may not be completely removed. However, it does not cause damage if it's not completely removed. Rather, excessive rubbing or harsh scrubbing to remove it completely can cause skin irritation, so be careful.
