Fragrances are blended into many cosmetics. Recently, their pharmacological effects, such as relaxation and stress relief, have gained attention, making "choosing by scent" one of the pleasures of using cosmetics. However, it is surprisingly not widely known that the raw materials for fragrances are increasingly becoming endangered species or are becoming difficult to obtain and expensive. Furthermore, future advancements through technologies like genetic modification are anticipated.

Q. Please tell me about natural and synthetic fragrances.

First, there are "natural fragrances" and "synthetic fragrances." "Natural fragrances" are scents extracted from existing plants and animals in nature, such as jasmine, rose, and musk derived from civets. Natural fragrances are produced by steam distillation or extraction with alcohol or oil. In contrast, "synthetic fragrances" are made by isolating a single component from natural fragrances or by chemically synthesizing those components. Generally, fragrances are created by blending natural and synthetic fragrances. Such blended substances are called compounded fragrances, and most of those used in cosmetics are compounded fragrances. In this case, even if everything is blended from natural fragrances, it seems to be called a natural fragrance. Natural fragrances are composed of many components. For example, the scent of "jasmine" is not made up of just one element. However, since the main scent component gives it its "jasmine" character, a blend of the main synthetic fragrance component is apparently called a "synthetic fragrance." While it may smell like "jasmine," it is difficult to reproduce the depth and mellowness of a natural scent. So why have they become widespread? Because chemically synthesized fragrances can be produced cheaply in large quantities, have high purity, and are stable. Fragrance diffusers are a good example of this.

Q. How are current fragrances made?

As many synthetic fragrances are produced today, technology has advanced to analyze natural fragrances and blend synthetic ones in a similar manner. By blending synthetic fragrances, it has become possible to precisely reproduce natural scents. One could say it's like digital synthetic fragrances versus analog natural fragrances. Many natural fragrances are truly precious and cannot be obtained, and their scent varies depending on the harvest location and year. Therefore, the trend has shifted towards skillfully mixing them to maintain quality, compensating for these limitations.

Q. How will fragrances evolve in the future?

Currently, research is being conducted to ensure a stable supply of fragrance raw materials that are becoming endangered or difficult to obtain and expensive. In such cases, there is potential for securing raw materials through artificial cultivation or farming, or for creating desired fragrances through genetic modification. For example, it is conceivable to extract fragrances by incorporating genes that produce fragrance components from raw material plants into microorganisms using biotechnology and culturing them. If the quality can also be altered in such cases, new fragrances that do not exist in nature might be developed.

Miyoji Okabe Official Website
The Science of Beauty: "The Garden of Beauty Science"
http://www.kt.rim.or.jp/~miyoharu/