Series: Miyoji Okabe | Vol. 13 The Basics of "Whitening" You're Afraid to Ask About
Vol. 13: The Basics of "Whitening" You Can Finally Ask About
Miyoji Okabe has been involved in the creation of numerous excellent cosmetics through her work in the research and product development departments of major cosmetic manufacturers. Leveraging her unyielding pursuit of beauty, sharp insight, and deep knowledge as a researcher, she will explain various "beauty questions" from a scientific perspective.
Narration by Miyoji Okabe
Photography by JAMANDFIX
The season for new whitening products has arrived. This year, many products focus not only on melanin care but also boast "whitening plus alpha" effects. However, the "plus alpha" benefits are truly realized with a solid understanding of "whitening" itself. Therefore, this time, we asked her to explain the fundamental concepts and cutting-edge mechanisms of skin whitening.
A Japanese-Origin Treatment?
Q. Why are Japanese women so focused on "whitening"?
It's thought to stem from the concept of "fair skin" being associated with the beauty of noble women. In fact, the need for "whitening" is unique to Japan. People of Asian descent have skin that changes color easily; it becomes lighter without sun exposure and naturally darker with it. Culturally, this led to an association of tanned skin with laborers engaged in farming or herding, and fair skin with women of high social standing, making fair skin an aspirational ideal. Thus, in the past, women applied face powder to achieve a lighter complexion.
Q. When did whitening cosmetics first appear?
The first whitening product was likely "Rosette Washing Paste," released in 1951. In an era when solid soap was the only option for facial cleansing, this revolutionary cream soap quickly gained popularity and became a huge hit, promising to "whiten the skin and even cure acne!" Subsequently, with the emergence and widespread use of whitening ingredients like Vitamin C and placenta, the "whitening" category was established. Around 1972, when I joined the industry as a researcher, single products like whitening creams were already on the market. The first whitening cosmetic series was launched in 1974 by Albion, called "Natural Shine." Under the concept of "Summer Whitening," four products—a facial cleanser, lotion, emulsion, and cream—were released simultaneously. From then on, the concept of "whitening in summer" became a new norm for consumers, leading more manufacturers to release product series, which is the main trajectory of whitening cosmetics.
Vol. 13: The Basics of "Whitening" You Can Finally Ask About 02
Q. So, from what perspective should consumers choose whitening products?
Currently, if there isn't a significant difference in efficacy, you should choose based on the "plus alpha" effects you desire and the product's feel. Melanin-based whitening takes time to show results even with continuous use, so the texture and other aspects that make you want to continue using it become important factors.
Lastly, there's one more point I'd like to mention regarding age-related spots and similar localized concerns. For these, I recommend seeking treatment from a skilled dermatologist using lasers or other medical procedures, followed by whitening care that includes UV protection. I couldn't say this loudly when I was a researcher (laughs), but in fact, combining cosmetic medicine with melanin care is a very effective and economical choice.
