Hiromi Kobayashi: 2009 Autumn/Winter Beauty Trends (2) - "Cosmetics for Midnight Esthetics"
Beauty
March 13, 2015

Hiromi Kobayashi: 2009 Autumn/Winter Beauty Trends (2) - "Cosmetics for Midnight Esthetics"


Hiromi Kobayashi's 2009 Autumn/Winter Beauty Trends (2): Midnight Esthetic Cosmetics


“Care While You Sleep Creates Beautiful Skin”


OPENERS BEAUTY's annual feature on beauty trends with Beauty Director Hiromi Kobayashi continues. The second installment for Autumn/Winter 2009 focuses on “Midnight Esthetic Cosmetics.”


Compiled by Harumi SomeyaPhotos by Mizuho Takada




How You Utilize “Sleep Time” Determines Your Skin's Radiance



This autumn sees a surge of anti-aging cosmetics from various brands, with midnight creams and serums particularly catching the eye.

Nighttime is when the skin's metabolism becomes most active. It's what they call the "Cinderella time" (laughs).

During the day, skin is constantly battling external factors like UV rays, air pollution, and dryness, focusing solely on defense. But while you sleep, it busily begins regenerating cells. Furthermore, improved blood circulation during sleep ensures that nutrients are thoroughly delivered to the skin. In essence, skin at night, with its active metabolism, is highly receptive to skincare effects.



Given this, it's a shame to leave those six or seven hours of sleep untapped. On average, we spend about a third of our day sleeping, so how we utilize that time directly impacts our skin's radiance and health. This is also part of my beauty philosophy: since we have to sleep every day, let's "become beautiful during sleep." I call it Midnight Esthetics.

While night creams and other nighttime products have existed for a while, brands are now releasing 21st-century night cosmetics that go beyond simple night creams, focusing on how to approach the skin during the peak hours of human growth hormone secretion.







Consumable Cosmetics That Gently Work from Within



AYURA's Well Balance Series specifically focuses on midnight, on "sleep." Born from the idea that "ample sleep creates beautiful skin, and a calm mind drifting into sleep must surely benefit cell activity," this line features items dedicated to nighttime care, such as a whitening lotion that balances skin's fluctuations and a moisturizing cream that soothes skin and mind with a fragrance promoting restful sleep.

My particular favorite among these is the “Well Balance Night Treat Supplement.”

This supplement focuses on the skin's metabolic rhythm during sleep, aiming to regulate the body's "water" circulation while inducing quality sleep. It contains milk peptides that promote sleep, so taking one feels like drinking warm milk, inducing relaxation. Of course, it's packed with beauty ingredients, so the synergistic effect with quality sleep leaves your skin and mind refreshed by morning! Highly recommended.



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POLA's beauty drink, "Beauty Up Bi-Trois," is also formulated with sleep quality in mind. With the scent of bergamot and GABA, it comfortably supports your pre-sleep time, while seven beauty-enhancing ingredients, including collagen, awaken your beauty by morning.

est's "Lift Support Multi-Effecter" is a firming serum containing carefully selected firming ingredients that penetrate the stratum corneum to provide a vibrant firmness and elasticity to the entire face. While not exclusively for nighttime use, its potent action on the dermis makes it ideal for use at night when metabolism is active. It has a light, gel-based texture.

Gene-Based Cosmetics That Work on Skin Cells During Sleep



DIOR's Capture XP nighttime products, "Capture XP Night Corrector Serum/Cream," utilize the latest "Stéromes Night" formula to approach skin functions during sleep. Compared to AYURA's Eastern beauty approach, this is more scientific, a high-tech system. The concept of activating "mother cells" that generate new cells during sleep is highly convincing.

CHANEL's "Extrême Collection Fermeté Nuit Cream" is the night cream from the Extrême Collection series, which targets skin sagging. This series focuses on "tensine," a protein that maintains skin cell elasticity. All products in the line contain the proprietary ingredient "Élémi PFA," which reactivates the production of tensine, which decreases with age.



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Next,ESTĒE LAUDER's "Advanced Night Repair SR Complex" focuses on "clock genes," the key to aging. With its unique DNA technology, this reliable product instantly improves skin damage sustained during the day. Twenty-five years since the birth of the first Night Repair, it is undeniably the pioneer of night serums.

CLINIQUE's new product is also gene-based. The nighttime anti-aging cream "Youth Surge Night" applies the mechanism of activating "sirtuin genes," also known as longevity genes.

According to a representative I spoke with, "The key is how to make genes live longer and copy and paste effectively, or how to repair the damage sustained during the day overnight." I find the concept, which looks towards the potential of skin longevity beyond just prevention and repair, quite insightful.



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Focusing on "sleep disorders" caused by aging isLANCOME's intensive night serum, "Absolue βx Night Concentrate." By delivering a high concentration of skin-conditioning ingredients to the skin during sleep, it works to intensively rebuild the "extracellular matrix" that supports skin structure, thereby improving signs of aging such as wrinkles and sagging. At over 20,000 yen, it's a bit pricey, but worth every yen. Its viscous texture feels pleasant to use.

Lancôme also offers gene-based cosmetics. "Génifique" is an anti-aging serum that activates the activity of genes responsible for producing proteins specific to young skin. While not exclusively for nighttime care, its exceptional penetration when used as the very first step after cleansing makes it a highly recommended item for the initial step of your night routine.

For both Estée Lauder and Clinique, their gene-based products, which are the result of years of research, are reasonably priced.

This may be due to the recession, but listening to the manufacturers, there's a sense of incredible value, as if they're saying, "We want as many people as possible to use this; we'll make profits elsewhere, so this price is fine." When I thought about how expensive Génifique would be, I was surprised to find it's around 10,000 yen. I expected it to be 30,000 to 40,000 yen. In that sense too, it's a top recommendation for this autumn.

With 3D Sheet Masks, Care Reaches Every Contour, From Around the Nose and Mouth to the Jawline



When it comes to nighttime care, masks are indispensable. Masks have been evolving year by year, and this autumn, the clear winner is the "3D sheet."

IMPRESS's "Concentrate Mask 3D" features a three-dimensional sheet that truly "envelops" areas like the sides of the nose, nasolabial folds, and even the neck. While the lack of wrinkles might make one look like Ultraman (laughs), the seamless fit is comfortable. Highly moisturizing ingredients penetrate effectively.

SK-II's "Skin Signature 3D Redefining Mask" uses two upper and lower stretchable sheets with a three-dimensional design around the nose. Divided into two parts and offering excellent stretch, it covers not only the nose area but also the jawline effectively. It's especially recommended for those seeking a lifting effect.



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Skin conditions differ between morning and night, as do the desired results. In the morning, a sharp, masculine skin is ideal, while in the evening, a soft, feminine skin is preferred.

I have long advocated for "morning beauty and night beauty," emphasizing the importance of strategically utilizing preparation for cell nurturing, relaxation, and refreshment. This autumn's impression is that cosmetics have become much more aligned with this concept. Looking at this trend, 2010 promises to be even more exciting.

*All products are personal belongings

Next time,Natural Cosmetics & Hero Cosmetics: “Using them not only enhances your skin but also enriches your spirit.”is the topic.


NILI