Beauty
March 6, 2015
Truefitt and Hill | The Art of Wet Shaving, Truefitt & Hill Style
Truefitt and Hill Style: The Art of Wet Shaving
Bringing the Joy of Shaving into Your Daily Life
Graham Barber visited Japan from the London flagship store on St. James's Street to spread the word about traditional wet shaving, a practice passed down through generations at Truefitt & Hill, the world's oldest barbershop. He shared the steps and tips for wet shaving using a shaving brush.
Compiled by Makoto Kaji (The Magazine)Photo by Jamandfix
We Offer the Same Service as the Royal Family
At the Truefitt & Hill flagship store, as its history attests, a Truefitt & Hill master barber still visits Buckingham Palace every four weeks to groom the hair and beard of the Duke of Edinburgh.
— Mr. Barber, what do you find most appealing about Truefitt & Hill?
Perhaps it's that for over 200 years, each staff member has provided high-quality service and products to our customers. Grooming is an essential aspect of being a gentleman. By providing a sense of security, we receive trust, a valuable commodity, from our clients. Offering the same service to our customers as we do to the Royal Family is a source of pride for us, as holders of the Royal Warrant.
— For Japanese men, wet shaving might be unfamiliar...
I get the impression that Japanese men, compared to Westerners, don't have as much facial hair. Nevertheless, establishing a habit of shaving properly every morning with wet shaving is an important part of grooming. It might seem time-consuming, but once you get used to it, it only takes about five to six minutes at home, so it's not a burden.
— At home, preparing a hot towel as shown in the process above might be difficult.
If you can't prepare a hot towel, doing it after a bath or shower is perfectly fine. The key is to warm the skin and beard thoroughly after washing your face to soften them. Also, a hot towel can be surprisingly easy to make using a microwave.
— It's said that using razors and shaving brushes consistently changes the skin.
That's right. Especially the bristles of a high-quality shaving brush, with their fine tips and moderate stiffness, remove dirt from deep within the pores and old keratin, promoting skin cell turnover. It also has a massaging effect, which stimulates blood circulation and acts like a peel (exfoliating old keratin, enhancing the skin's natural regenerative power, and promoting skin activation). Continuing with wet shaving using a shaving brush will transform your skin into a clean and healthy complexion.
— Could you tell us the key points of wet shaving?
First, it's important to understand how your beard grows. Beards typically grow downwards, so start by shaving in the direction of growth. Many people misunderstand this, but shaving against the grain from the start can easily damage the skin's surface. Shave once from top to bottom, and then for any areas you want to perfect, you can go against the grain. This will give you a clean shave and help prevent razor burn.
— It's a pleasure to have a complete set of shaving tools, isn't it?
For traditional wet shaving, please invest in high-quality tools.
The first four items you should acquire are shaving cream, a shaving brush, a razor (safety razor), and an aftershave balm.
In particular, choosing an inexpensive shaving brush can be problematic, as the bristles may be too stiff and damage your skin. This is why Truefitt & Hill's shaving brushes come standard with the finest natural badger hair (Super Badger), which is soft yet has just the right amount of firmness.
While there's an initial investment, if you rinse it thoroughly after use, place it on a stand, and store it in a well-ventilated area, it will typically last for 10 years. For home use, a three-blade cartridge razor (safety razor) is recommended. The reason is that the gaps between the blades in four- or five-blade razors are too narrow, causing them to clog easily when using shaving cream for wet shaving.
Truefitt & Hill razors use Gillette's three-blade system (Mach3), and the handle has a well-balanced, moderate weight. Like our shaving brushes, we encourage you to experience the difference. It might take some practice to lather shaving cream properly.
If you desire a lather like whipped cream, consider adding a shaving bowl (a bowl for lathering shaving cream). Shaving methods vary depending on beard density, growth pattern, and skin type. We hope you'll establish your own unique shaving method that feels most comfortable and enjoy this special time.
— I see. What kind of post-shave care do you recommend?
Post-shave skin care is even more crucial. Shaving can strip the skin of its moisture, so using a facial moisturizer in addition to an aftershave balm with moisturizing effects will ensure complete care.
— Does post-shave care differ depending on skin type?
Yes. Post-shave care can be broadly divided into three categories based on skin type.
1) Normal Skin: Aftershave balm + Facial moisturizer before bed
2) Dry Skin: Aftershave balm + Facial moisturizer on dry areas (several times a day)
3) Oily Skin: Aftershave lotion
For those with normal skin, we recommend applying an aftershave balm after shaving, followed by a facial moisturizer before bed. For those with dry skin, we suggest applying facial moisturizer to areas of concern several times a day. For oily skin, aftershave lotion is recommended. At our London flagship store, long-time customers often prefer aftershave lotion after shaving. This is likely due to the antiseptic effect of the alcohol and the pleasantly invigorating sensation it provides. However, recent studies indicate that aftershave lotions with high alcohol content can dry out the skin. Therefore, for normal and dry skin types, aftershave balm and facial moisturizer are recommended.
— So, using it in conjunction with a facial moisturizer is effective?
Aftershave balm focuses on replenishing moisture after shaving. Facial moisturizer spreads more easily and has a lighter finish than balm, so applying it to the eyelids and around the eyes, where signs of fatigue tend to appear, can help firm the skin. This is because Truefitt & Hill's facial moisturizer contains Coenzyme Q10, which helps prevent age spots and wrinkles, as well as Carnosine. Carnosine is an amino acid naturally found in the human body and has long been favored in Russia as an anti-aging agent to combat oxidation. However, its benefits have only recently been discovered in the West. Therefore, facial moisturizer is excellent for revitalizing the skin, not only before sleep but also around the eyes and eyelids where fatigue shows. This can significantly change the impression you give to others.
— So, a gentleman understands the significant impact his grooming has on others. Thank you.
